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I’d also like to suggest having a “super capacitor” type jumper in your car. They do not need to be maintained or charged and use the residual power in your battery - or home outlets, or USB chargers, or another car battery - to charge up and deliver the energy all at once to turn the engine over. Just because the battery doesn’t turn over doesn’t mean you have 0 volts - but you might not have the 10 or so you need to turn over.

I’ve had some bad luck with the Lithium ones even though they can be a little cheaper since they require maintenance.

I believe the brand is Autowit. I bought a few to give out to family for Christmas.
 
Imma gonna just get that Odyssey 1400T AMG battery installed. Given a 2021 doesn't have that tailgate issue (well, for 20 minutes it does), I'd be okay camping with the tailgate open for sometime once the Odyssey is in and then given it's got more amps in the sense of power but some bigger reserve as well, plus 5-10 years is better than 3-5 years on Subi's default battery.

Anyway, to each their own. My next (post battery) idea is to find better brake pads around 40k miles than default Subi's.
 
Hatch-catch is great, but I use one of these. $2...usually found where the keychains and such are in drug stores, hardware stores, etc. Anything remotely similar will work too. Heck you can flip the latch closed by hand, but you need something to pull it open when you actually want to close the hatch. Anything you can stick through the latch and pull on would work.

6083
 
Yep. Just about anything will do it. The thing that makes the hatch catch so easy is, it does the work of catching it at that tiny little interval where the system is looking for the latch to shut off. Catching the latch before it reaches that position doesn't reset everything in the same way.
 
This is great news there’s a TSB out for this now. My ‘20 needs this done. Anybody know what’s involved for the dealer to swap the controller? How much are they going to be tearing apart the vehicle to swap the part?
 
Yes, I mentioned the TSB elsewhere, including that it's been updated to include some 2020 MY Ascents. The controller is in the back, and an easy installation. It is behind the cargo wall on the passenger side, mounted to a support frame in the rear quarter panel. Removing the cargo tray is required. Removing the third row makes it easier.
 
I think he's looking for 2 things:
1) Time they will take to do this in hours?
2) Cost to him, which should be zero
 
Yes, I mentioned the TSB elsewhere, including that it's been updated to include some 2020 MY Ascents. The controller is in the back, and an easy installation. It is behind the cargo wall on the passenger side, mounted to a support frame in the rear quarter panel. Removing the cargo tray is required. Removing the third row makes it easier.
Yeah I’ve been off the forums for quite a few months - getting caught up. Thanks for the info!
 
You've been missed. Hope all is well.
 
I think he's looking for 2 things:
1) Time they will take to do this in hours?
2) Cost to him, which should be zero
  • One to two hours. Reimbursable labor is 54 minutes (0.4h diags, 0.5h installation). It will take longer on a car stuffed with stuff. Diags cannot take shorter due to the timeout test. Bay availability may make the entire process take longer (eg: car sits in lot until an open bay is available). Parts ordering may require the car to be brought back.
  • Zero dollars under standard warranty. Zero dollars to deductible on Gold Plus warranty.
 
  • One to two hours. Reimbursable labor is 54 minutes (0.4h diags, 0.5h installation). It will take longer on a car stuffed with stuff. Diags cannot take shorter due to the timeout test. Bay availability may make the entire process take longer (eg: car sits in lot until an open bay is available). Parts ordering may require the car to be brought back.
  • Zero dollars under standard warranty. Zero dollars to deductible on Gold Plus warranty.
From my experience, it took my dealership about 2 hours to complete the work. The component is located on passenger side behind the lower trim panel (black piece) near the D pillar. I don't believe my 3rd row seats were removed judging by what was moved around in my trunk. The carpet flap connecting the 3rd row seat to the rear tray was not put back and I just popped back back in the clips when I noticed the day after.

I told them my battery has drained unexpectedly twice with the tailgate open for extended times and the tailgate was not responsive to my FOB and/or inside tailgate button. Gave them the TSB number. And they agree to do the TSB without any challenge.
 
Near the C Pillar, but, otherwise, yes. The side panel can be flexed out of the way to access it. But, to do that, one must remove the cargo floor behind the third row, the cargo area below it, and the D pillar cover.

You can't quite see it in this pic, because I took this pic for another purpose, but, it's located roughly where the arrow points to (a little above and left).

6133



"and the tailgate was not responsive to my FOB and/or inside tailgate button. Gave them the TSB number. And they agree to do the TSB without any challenge."

Magic words. 😉
 
Well I brought my 2019 to the dealer today since my tailgate has been acting up. I brought up the tsb and they ordered the part and will get it fixed, no pushback at all. It got stuck open, so had to disconnect the battery cable, and has been opening slightly or not opening at all after hitting the front button. I will say Subaru and my dealer have been great! I was just there a month ago for the front door seal replacement and they did those with no pushback too.
 
True to what Robert said but to add more color:

1) A TSB has been issued for the rear gate controller, the piece that arbitrates what voltage is needed for how long. Affecting model year 2019 and some of 2020 (but presumably fixed for the 2021 builds), the new controller will drop the amps it draws (~4Amps) down to a < 1Amp after 20 minutes of the rear hatch being up. To be sure, there is a class action suit about the battery situation and that is tied to Ascent and other Subaru's but doesn't include 2021 Ascent.
Thanks for that great info! Do you know the TSB number? I'd like to have it with me the next time I'm in the shop.
 
I think it would be detrimental in the long run, given force is implied vs an electronic signal being used.
 
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True to what Robert said but to add more color:

1) A TSB has been issued for the rear gate controller, the piece that arbitrates what voltage is needed for how long. Affecting model year 2019 and some of 2020 (but presumably fixed for the 2021 builds), the new controller will drop the amps it draws (~4Amps) down to a < 1Amp after 20 minutes of the rear hatch being up. To be sure, there is a class action suit about the battery situation and that is tied to Ascent and other Subaru's but doesn't include 2021 Ascent.

2) Another way to make this more efficient is pull and put back the #14 fuse then get a carabiner and slot it into the rear lift and manually lower it to near close then let it open on it's own and that's supposed to cut the time from 20min to 2min for the car to drop it's amp pull. Not for the DIY-shy.

3) Third and likely best way to go now on a 2021 Ascent is to get the 550 Cold-Crank-Amp Odyssey 1400T battery at Autozone or other provider (e.g., Speedway) - retail is a hair under $300. Then replace your Subaru provided battery with that one (Youtube videos are helpful - 15 minutes) or just pay Subaru to do it or AutoZone might do it free for buying there. That's an increase from 330 cold-crank amps to 550, and Subaru's battery is a 3-5 year battery while Odyssey is 5-10 years and if you plan to have the rear open for any extended time, that's where you won't sweat it with a nice AMG battery in place.
I had experienced a dead battery after my wife accidentally opened the rear hatch and left it open all night. I went to my local dealer and after a lengthy search and review by their tech, they said that there is no such TSB. Would anyone know the specific TSB? They said this is a long-time known issue with Subarus in general. He recommended having a product called Hatch Catch though a caribiner would also do the trick. I would prefer the controller to be changed out if possible.


The service advisor was very kind to give me a complimentary oil change for my frustration. Thanks Jason!
 
TSB NUMBER: 07-155-19R DATE: 06/12/2019 REVISED: 03/16/2020

APPLICABILITY:
2019-20MY Forester 2019MY Ascent SUBJECT: Power Rear Gate (PRG) Control Module- Design Change

INTRODUCTION: This bulletin announces a design change made to the PRG control module. This change is in response to a limited number of customer concerns regarding the rear gate not opening when operating the gate switch or dashboard switch on the vehicle or the button on the key fob. In addition to ensuring proper PRG system operation, the new logic also optimizes the PRG communication function. The change will prevent excessive dark draw which may over time, cause a low battery condition.

PRODUCTION CHANGE INFORMATION: The new PRG control modules were incorporated into production as follows:

  • Forester: Starting with VIN LH477261
  • Ascent: Start of 2020MY production
 
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