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HATCH CATCH

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29K views 55 replies 22 participants last post by  Wazioc  
#2 ·
2021 Subaru Ascent has the newest gate controller, which should cut liftgate power use in 20 minutes.
 
#7 ·
Yes, get a DC clamping meter, clamp it around the negative cable (doesn't fit well around all of the positive cables), zero it. Open the liftgate. Draw should jump to about 4 amps. Come back in 20 minutes, no FOBs. It should drop to a fraction of an amp.
 
#9 ·
That's the one I used.
 
#11 ·
You can test it yourself to confirm. The meter above that Merope and I use, is a good multipurpose meter, and under $40. Or you can choose to not do anything if your needs don't warrant it. I am considering some car camping, which will require the liftgate being open for hours, so, mine is being diagnosed on November 23rd, and then replaced (when they confirm what I've already tested).
 
#13 ·
I am currently running the Northstar 24F (for roughly 10,000 miles, IIRC)
 
#15 ·
Best way is to call your dealership and have them check. Easiest way (if you have access to a DC clamping meter and a location you can leave your liftgate open for 25 minutes) is to test.
 
#17 ·
Yep, exactly one of the reasons I got it - camping (specifically for running the Dometic fridge I plan on getting next).
 
#25 ·
Yep. Just about anything will do it. The thing that makes the hatch catch so easy is, it does the work of catching it at that tiny little interval where the system is looking for the latch to shut off. Catching the latch before it reaches that position doesn't reset everything in the same way.
 
#27 ·
Yes, I mentioned the TSB elsewhere, including that it's been updated to include some 2020 MY Ascents. The controller is in the back, and an easy installation. It is behind the cargo wall on the passenger side, mounted to a support frame in the rear quarter panel. Removing the cargo tray is required. Removing the third row makes it easier.
 
#30 ·
You've been missed. Hope all is well.
 
#31 ·
misikoff said:
I think he's looking for 2 things:
1) Time they will take to do this in hours?
2) Cost to him, which should be zero
Click to expand...
  • One to two hours. Reimbursable labor is 54 minutes (0.4h diags, 0.5h installation). It will take longer on a car stuffed with stuff. Diags cannot take shorter due to the timeout test. Bay availability may make the entire process take longer (eg: car sits in lot until an open bay is available). Parts ordering may require the car to be brought back.
  • Zero dollars under standard warranty. Zero dollars to deductible on Gold Plus warranty.
 
#33 ·
Near the C Pillar, but, otherwise, yes. The side panel can be flexed out of the way to access it. But, to do that, one must remove the cargo floor behind the third row, the cargo area below it, and the D pillar cover.

You can't quite see it in this pic, because I took this pic for another purpose, but, it's located roughly where the arrow points to (a little above and left).

6133



"and the tailgate was not responsive to my FOB and/or inside tailgate button. Gave them the TSB number. And they agree to do the TSB without any challenge."

Magic words. 😉
 
#43 ·
visorvet said:
FWIW I have a 2022 Ascent Touring and believed that the new hatch controller would be sufficient to preserve battery power with lengthy periods of leaving the lift gate open. Wrong - went to a sheepdog clinic this past weekend (need to leave the hatch open to keep my dogs cool) and battery went completely dead. So the situation may be better than it once was, but it still poses a significant risk, especially if you are in a remote area without ready access to a jump. From what I understand the timer restarts each time any door is opened, and I certainly had to do that a few times to get jackets, lunch, etc. But that is difficult to avoid. So I have just purchased a Hatch Catch, will likely buy a portable jump-starter thingy, and may buy a top-post battery isolator switch to use under these circumstances.
Click to expand...
The liftgate stops drawing power at 20 minutes, unless you open a door (which will reset the 20 minute timeout, each and every time). If you just opened the liftgate, and left it open, it should not be the cause of the battery drain. Something else (whether use case, or a bad module somewhere) caused it. But, (assuming it's not defective), it was not the liftgate controller.

So, I suggest you find the cause of the dead battery, so it doesn't recur. If I can help you walk through some test scenarios, let me know. If we can figure out how to replicate it, we can get them to fix it for you.
 
#46 ·
visorvet said:
My assumption was exactly as you stated, but I am not aware of any other battery draws. I have not had any problems with the hatch open for periods of about 4 hours at a time in the year I've owned the car, but this was the first time I've had the hatch open for most of the day, 3 days in a row. Aside from what Subaru says the new module does, have you left your left gate open for this kind of sustained period, especially several days in a row? Yes, as I mentioned in my original post the occasional side door did get opened now and then during this period, as well - for the sake of argument, I'd estimate that a door was opened 3-4 times each day. Definitely no dome lights left on, nothing plugged into the USB/12V/AC ports, however.
Click to expand...
I've both measured draw, and left my liftgate (2019 with new module installed) open for a day. The current draw drops to standard background draw (as if nothing was open) at exactly 20 minutes. I have not done a 24 hour test, but I do not know what would reset the PRG controller to make it re-awaken the ECU at 24 hours.

visorvet said:
How does one go about investigating a drain due to some other cause? It doesn't sound as though Suburu service does this when owners bring their cars in with this complaint.
Click to expand...
Subaru (of America) has extensive sets of tests to diagnose current draw. Sometimes dealers don't seem interested in going through all of the diagnostics if the situation isn't easily replicatable, which kinda makes sense since (a) they won't get paid for the work if the problem can't be replicated or found, and (b) you won't have a solution if they can't replicate the problem to diagnose where the draw is.

I used a DC clamping meter (most sold on Amazon are AC only, and are not compatible) to watch the current draw caused by the liftgate controller. Similar can be used to detect a draw from other sources, but won't target the cause.

One suggestion I make to everyone is to (a) disable your FOB's if camping or working near the car, or (b) keep them away from the car, or (c) stick them in a faraday bag, that way they won't keep communicating with the car and drain the car battery in the process. This one, in small or extra small, will fit one FOB.

As for how to disable the FOB(s)... I unlock the doors (might as well, since the hatch is wide open), and then, use these steps:

To disable a FOB:
  • Press and HOLD Lock button on FOB
  • Tap UNLOCK button twice
  • Let go of Lock button
  • FOB blinks four times to confirm
To enable a sleeping FOB:
  • Press ANY FOB button
 
#50 ·
budzster said:
I am curious if the random evap pressure check would wake the ecu and reset the timer?
Click to expand...
Wow, that's something that would happen during that time frame. I can't test for a few months, but perhaps someone else can.
 
#52 ·
visorvet said:
During my 3-day clinic, the key fob was always in the car,
Click to expand...
That will keep the ECU awake, as the BCM will keep seeing the FOB. Try the Sleep/Disable method above, or the faraday case.
 
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