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Oil grade you're using now

  • 0W20 or 5W20

  • 0W30 or 5W30

  • 0W40 or 5W40

  • 0W20 because that's the ONLY oil spec'd for this engine

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If I could find 0w30 as easily as I can find 0w20 I would use that, but it’s hard to find near me. I’ve seen many used oil analysis that shows the 2.4 thins the oil pretty severely and the slight bump in viscosity might help. I wouldn’t be concerned about it hurting anything. But that’s just my opinion to each their own. If you use a quality 0w30 with same intervals as required by subaru and they reject it I’d be shocked.
Walmart sells Mobil 1 0W30, $30 bucks for 5 qts. Personally, I wouldn't chance my warranty by substituting it, but YMMV. I can see the theoretical reasoning for use in an extreme hot weather climate, but I assume the Subaru engineers have probably considered that also.

PS, I'm not sure where the "robot or human" came from, it is just a link to Walmart

 
If I could find 0w30 as easily as I can find 0w20 I would use that, but it’s hard to find near me. I’ve seen many used oil analysis that shows the 2.4 thins the oil pretty severely and the slight bump in viscosity might help. I wouldn’t be concerned about it hurting anything. But that’s just my opinion to each their own.
You make the assumption that Subaru's engine engineers are idiots. Trust me, they know how oil and viscosity works far better than a bunch of people using Google to try to learn about it. ;)



If you use a quality 0w30 with same intervals as required by subaru and they reject it I’d be shocked.
This isn't a question, and this isn't speculation - this is history and fact:
Subaru HAS ALREADY (and RIGHTFULLY SO) rejected warranty claims for that reason.

But, again, I don't care what you put in YOUR engine. No one is stopping you from using the wrong oil if you can find it.
 
Walmart sells Mobil 1 0W30, $30 bucks for 5 qts. Personally, I wouldn't chance my warranty by substituting it, but YMMV. I can see the theoretical reasoning for use in an extreme hot weather climate, but I assume the Subaru engineers have probably considered that also.

PS, I'm not sure where the "robot or human" came from, it is just a link to Walmart

That's because it responded to the "robot" (forum software) that tried getting a page preview image.
 
Yeah I am aware Walmart.com sells it but there is none to be had at the brick and mortar stores around me. I had several bad experiences ordering oil online and received a box that contained a bottle in a soaked plastic bag.
I do NOT assume Subaru engineers are idiots (just the engineers that selected the brake pad/rotor materials):LOL:.
I didn’t mean to ruffle feathers I’m fairly new here, and i frankly don’t care if you run olive oil and vinegar in your car. I don’t make recommendations I just have never heard of Subaru rejecting someone over a quality synthetic motor oil (meets SP, but is one viscosity higher.) I am NOT saying it didn’t happen! I just live under a rock.
I would like to know if there was documentation of regular oil changes and what viscosity oil was used in place that caused failure and warranty denial. Out of curiosities sake I want to understand what happened I have never ever used anything but 0w20. But does that mean Subaru would reject my warranty claim if I used 5w20??
 
I just have never heard of Subaru rejecting someone over a quality synthetic motor oil
Right, but now you have. It happens, rightfully so.
 
Don't get me wrong, it is a really nice vest (the hat is just ok), but, they've NEVER paid me. I've NEVER been comp'd a car. I've NEVER been given any gifts beyond what you all get (heck, when you all were getting Dysons, which I sorely needed btw, I got a cargo area organizer - and bought my Dyson on my own, lol).
My Subaru Dyson is now on its 3rd battery. To date I only paid 1/2 the price of one of those batteries - Dyson comped the 1st one and rebated the 2nd replacement. Best vacuum ever! :p

You forgot to mention our 8% inflation-matching forum staff raise...
(1.08 x $0.00 = $0.00)
 
Right, but now you have. It happens, rightfully so.
Did they reject the warranty claim because it was the wrong weight of oil or the wrong classification? In other words was it a non synthetic Or non gf5/gf6a rated oil?l or simply the wrong weight?

Also, how did Subaru determine it was the wrong oil? Records, owners word, or did they send it to some science lab to determine it’s original weight divided by the time it was in the motor thinning out over time?
 
Did they reject the warranty claim because it was the wrong weight of oil or the wrong classification? In other words was it a non synthetic Or non gf5/gf6a rated oil?l or simply the wrong weight?

Also, how did Subaru determine it was the wrong oil? Records, owners word, or did they send it to some science lab to determine it’s original weight divided by the time it was in the motor thinning out over time?
Weight. Owner "told" them by providing the records.

And, again, Subaru engineers understand how, when and why oil thins out better than our Google education on the matter. It's absurd to think they didn't consider that in the numerous years of design and testing.

Interesting that no one (but me) is discussing the thickness of the oil at start.
 
Interesting that no one (but me) is discussing the thickness of the oil at start.
That's the reason I do 3K OCIs. I don't worry about degradation with this schedule, and oil & filters are relatively cheap, especially when you DIY. Costco had their syn 0W20 on sale for ~$20 for the 5 Qt jug, and I bought 6 OEM blue filters for ~$6 ea. online.
 
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Let’s discuss it. What is the thickness of the oil at start
Let's just leave that at how nice it must be to decrease lubrication of that turbo and other vital tight tolerance bearings on cold starts because no one has actually thought out what oil needs to do, and when the engine is under its most challenging lubrication moment (cold starts).

The 0W-20 starts flowing easily, immediately, through everything, unlike 5W-20.
 
Let's just leave that at how nice it must be to decrease lubrication of that turbo and other vital tight tolerance bearings on cold starts because no one has actually thought out what oil needs to do, and when the engine is under its most challenging lubrication moment (cold starts).

The 0W-20 starts flowing easily, immediately, through everything, unlike 5W-20.
I agree. Cold start is huge wear on the engine. I think what people are getting hung up on is why not a 0w30 as it will provide great cold start properties and presumably better resistance to heat and thinning. But agin with Subarus recommendation of changing it every 3k if you do short trips and or live in a cold climate, you could probably run 0w20 or less if Subaru recommended it and be okay
 
Exactly, and get better cold start lubrication. Considering how many Subies are sold in Vermont and Colorado... ;)
 
I am more concerned with this engine’s propensity to dilute the oil with fuel. I have seen several cases of used oil analysis of the fa24 dilute the oil viscosity over the course of the oci to the point where it falls BELOW the 20 weight viscosity. Also the cranking viscosity at cold temps between a 5w or a 0w are negligible at anything above arctic temps. I believe the push for the thinner oil is driven not by some engineer but by CAFE fuel economy standards. Again I am not trying to pick a fight.
 
Also cold start lubrication wouldn’t be any different between a 0w-16,20,30, or 40 Cold start wouldn’t be affected as the first number deals with the oil weight when cold.
 
I'm sure Subaru will be switching to 0W-16 soon like other companies. You're worrying about a problem that's not a problem.
 
Didn’t see him mention if that was synthetic or not. That would make a difference I would assume
I doubt that syn or dino would make any difference initially (if both are at the same temps). Viscosity is viscosity, tho a syn oil would likely maintain viscosity much better under heat & stress.
 
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