Subaru Ascent Forum banner

Oil grade you're using now

  • 0W20 or 5W20

  • 0W30 or 5W30

  • 0W40 or 5W40

  • 0W20 because that's the ONLY oil spec'd for this engine

41 - 60 of 133 Posts
Nothing wrong with questions, but you've gotta remember that the FA24F was overbuilt, because of two key reasons:
  • The Ascent with FA24F was designed to move as much as 11,000 pounds (that's over three Crosstreks)
  • There were other plans for it, such as the STI that's not happening.
They spent a LOT of time working on the FA24F.
I’m sure they did take their time in many ways. I like the power plant other than that it doesn’t warm up quick in the rear cause there’s no ptc heater for the rear and direct injection engine such as Subarus are notorious for not getting warm quick. Hence the ptc heater. And I’ve had fuel dilution. Never had that with port injection. I don’t know how much thought they put into that with a direct injection motor living in mn winters. Toyota thought about it with their 2020 and newer 3.5L injection setup.
 
Nothing wrong with questions, but you've gotta remember that the FA24F was overbuilt, because of two key reasons:
  • The Ascent with FA24F was designed to move as much as 11,000 pounds (that's over three Crosstreks)
  • There were other plans for it, such as the STI that's not happening.
They spent a LOT of time working on the FA24F.
Robert, Just out of curiosity, has Subaru ever given you a check? Or a car. Or comped you anything?
 
Robert, Just out of curiosity, has Subaru ever given you a check? Or a car. Or comped you anything?
:ROFLMAO: LMAO!!! I get some "Subaru Ambassador" t-shirts and hats. We all got a Subaru Ambassador hat and vest this winter.

Image


Don't get me wrong, it is a really nice vest (the hat is just ok), but, they've NEVER paid me. I've NEVER been comp'd a car. I've NEVER been given any gifts beyond what you all get (heck, when you all were getting Dysons, which I sorely needed btw, I got a cargo area organizer - and bought my Dyson on my own, lol).

If you read my 10,000+ posts, I am very clear about the things I don't like, or when an aftermarket accessory is better, or better suited, for owners.

My 2010 Outback was bought used from Liberty Subaru - they're a key reason I volunteer to be a Subaru Ambassador.

My 2019 Subaru Ascent was bought at dealer invoice from Liberty Subaru - not because I am a Subaru Ambassador, but because Subaru of America rewards ALL participants of the 48hrs of Tristate Subaru Enthusiasts Drive for Charity event, each year, with one VIP offer that expires in one year. Last year, we raised $108,680 (not a typo) for Make-A-Wish, one of Subaru's favorite charities - thus you can perhaps see why each year, they give the hundred of us (give or take) that VIP offer as a token of thanks.

So, to your question, no, I spend an inordinate amount of time creating content, how to's, answering TENS of thousand (not even remotely exaggerating) of messages to help owners, answering literal CALLS on Facebook by people who needed help "immediately" and didn't know where to turn, advocating for owners, helping dealers fix owners' vehicles and more, on my own time, on my own dime.

What I do get back is being a part of a great community that's stepped up to help me when I needed it, including with my personal volunteer work (not so personal when 40-50 people show up to spend a weekend getting nasty cleaning forests, lol).

You can read about my story here:
 
other than that it doesn’t warm up quick in the rear cause there’s no ptc heater for the rear
I don't use the rear much - I never thought about that. I'd email Subaru with the suggestion. I think it's a great one.

And I’ve had fuel dilution. Never had that with port injection.
I have too - once I switched from 35 mile (each way) commutes to 2.5 mile (each way) commutes. I never had it with port injection either, but, I've never had today's high pressure port injection systems until the Ascent. Subaru isn't the only one having this problem. There's a number of theories. One has to do with how the seals work as the engine warms up - something that barely/rarely happens on short drives, meaning that when 90% of the driving is in the warm-up period, gas slips by. Not a clue if it's accurate or not.
 
Robert, Just out of curiosity, has Subaru ever given you a check? Or a car. Or comped you anything?
Little bit of irony... me helping you all know what will and will not get a warranty claim denied means Subaru ends up paying the repair bill, instead of you all. ;)
 
Well, after reading this entire thread, it seems that the general consensus is to stick with 0W-20. But since I'm ten times smarter than all the Subaru engineers combined, I've created my own "home brew" motor oil that is rated -100W-5000, and it's good for temperatures ranging all the way from absolute zero to 10000F, so I'll be able to drive my Subaru in the deepest regions of outer space or across the surface of the sun and my engine will still be purring like a kitten. If anyone wants 5 quarts for their next oil change let me know, I made extra!
 
Well, after reading this entire thread, it seems that the general consensus is to stick with 0W-20. But since I'm ten times smarter than all the Subaru engineers combined, I've created my own "home brew" motor oil that is rated -100W-5000, and it's good for temperatures ranging all the way from absolute zero to 10000F, so I'll be able to drive my Subaru in the deepest regions of outer space or across the surface of the sun and my engine will still be purring like a kitten. If anyone wants 5 quarts for their next oil change let me know, I made extra!
LMAO!!! Thanks for the laugh!!! Busy day of cleaning and video editing - I needed it.
 
I don't use the rear much - I never thought about that. I'd email Subaru with the suggestion. I think it's a great one.


I have too - once I switched from 35 mile (each way) commutes to 2.5 mile (each way) commutes. I never had it with port injection either, but, I've never had today's high pressure port injection systems until the Ascent. Subaru isn't the only one having this problem. There's a number of theories. One has to do with how the seals work as the engine warms up - something that barely/rarely happens on short drives, meaning that when 90% of the driving is in the warm-up period, gas slips by. Not a clue if it's accurate or not.
that’s nice to know you’re not a paid spokesperson.

I’ve asked you in the past about fuel dilution you had no answer for me. Any ideas why was mine adding half a quart every 300 miles of gas into the oil when I first got it for the first 1,400 miles or so? I did three or four oil changes in that time period and had UOA done. The dealer agreeed there was a major problem and opened a case for it. The had it for two plus weeks And they replace the hpfp which didn’t change anything. My dealer was stumped. never heard back from you on this one. Any ideas how it magically stopped doing this?
 
that’s nice to know you’re not a paid spokesperson.
lol, I'd be a horrible spokesperson, considering, I recommend other products when better, and help ensure you all get everything possible covered under warranty when legitimately warranted. ;)

I’ve asked you in the past about fuel dilution you had no answer for me. Any ideas why was mine adding half a quart every 300 miles of gas into the oil when I first got it for the first 1,400 miles or so? I did three or four oil changes in that time period and had UOA done. The dealer agreeed there was a major problem and opened a case for it. The had it for two plus weeks And they replace the hpfp which didn’t change anything. My dealer was stumped. never heard back from you on this one. Any ideas how it magically stopped doing this?
What year? If it was 2019, did you have the PCV valve changed?

Also, did your driving style change?

I waited to about 5,800 miles for my first oil change. I didn't check until after that oil change. I never had oil dilution until "work from home" and "2.5 mile commute".

Here's one example, during my August 2019 8,400 mile road trip to benefit the National Park Foundation (we raised a total of $5,000 in direct and fundraiser contributions). I'd just beaten the heck out of my Ascent off roading all over the country, including Moab, Arizona, Badlands National Park, the Mojave Desert (yep).


My results were identical winter through summer and back, right through about 85,000 miles, when I started a MUCH shorter commute. Now, it rises a bit on the dipstick.
 
lol, I'd be a horrible spokesperson, considering, I recommend other products when better, and help ensure you all get everything possible covered under warranty when legitimately warranted. ;) What year? If it was 2019, did you have the PCV valve changed? Also, did your driving style change? I waited to about 5,800 miles for my first oil change. I didn't check until after that oil change. I never had oil dilution until "work from home" and "2.5 mile commute". Here's one example, during my August 2019 8,400 mile road trip to benefit the National Park Foundation (we raised a total of $5,000 in direct and fundraiser contributions). I'd just beaten the heck out of my Ascent off roading all over the country, including Moab, Arizona, Badlands National Park, the Mojave Desert (yep). My results were identical winter through summer and back, right through about 85,000 miles, when I started a MUCH shorter commute. Now, it rises a bit on the dipstick.
The only thing that changed was the miles. And I brought it up to the redline a lot to seat the rings if they hadn’t been set. I own a 2022. It was in the middle of winter when we were experiencing this. We took delivery in January or February. But we’re in the middle of winter now and it’s not doing it to the same extent. A slight gassy smell on the dipstick but no serious rise. Our driving habits have not changed
 
When did it stop doing it?
 
It's not surprising during break-in for things to still be breaking seating and sealing. During break in, the piston rings "seal" against the cylinder wall, which stops such flow by. Some manufacturers even use special oil to help with that.

So, if it stopped after that, I'm not surprised.
 
I thought subaru did a dyno test pre delivery? Anyhow my dealer was super confused and hadn’t seen that before. I mentioned the rings seating and they didn’t think that was what it was.

First oil change was at 600 miles and about 6 quarts came out. My entire shop smelled like you dropped a gas tank and the “oil” was sooooo watered down with fuel. I’ve done many hundreds of oil changes and never smelled or seen anything like that

I guess I’ll chalk it up to breaking in. But it does make me nervous that that’s how my engine started out his life with solvents mixed with lubricants. Not sure on the long term consequences of that, if any.
 
A dyno test won't seat the rings fully. When break-in oil is in an engine nowadays, they expect a few thousand miles of use for break-in.
 
I thought subaru did a dyno test pre delivery? Anyhow my dealer was super confused and hadn’t seen that before. I mentioned the rings seating and they didn’t think that was what it was.

First oil change was at 600 miles and about 6 quarts came out. My entire shop smelled like you dropped a gas tank and the “oil” was sooooo watered down with fuel. I’ve done many hundreds of oil changes and never smelled or seen anything like that

I guess I’ll chalk it up to breaking in. But it does make me nervous that that’s how my engine started out his life with solvents mixed with lubricants. Not sure on the long term consequences of that, if any.
Hyundai/Kia had some major fuel dilution issues with their first GDI engines. Last I heard, it was determined to be faulty injectors that weren't fully shutting off. I see many manufacturers are going to dual port+DI systems now.

I had a car that was run with probably 50/50 fuel to oil at interstate speeds. On teardown, it was nice and shiny inside, with severely scored cylinders.
 
Hyundai/Kia had some major fuel dilution issues with their first GDI engines. Last I heard, it was determined to be faulty injectors that weren't fully shutting off. I see many manufacturers are going to dual port+DI systems now.

I had a car that was run with probably 50/50 fuel to oil at interstate speeds. On teardown, it was nice and shiny inside, with severely scored cylinders.
Honda had the issue with their 1.5L as well. I like the idea of the dual injection.

I guess I’ll know if there’s long term issues if it start burning oil or knocking.
 
Keep in mind there's many Ascents past 80,000 miles, including mine - and 99% of you won't ever abuse your Ascents like I abuse mine (which is probably smart, lol!!!). I have no oil burning, no knocking, no engine problems whatsoever, at over 93,000 miles - over 10,000 of which have been off road.


There's a pretty significant number past 100,000 miles as well.

SO FAR...
There's been no reports of oil burning (outside of the PCV issue on the early 2019's - all since replaced with the new design) or knocking yet, on 271,000 Ascents. I hope and expect it will stay that way.
 
If I could find 0w30 as easily as I can find 0w20 I would use that, but it’s hard to find near me. I’ve seen many used oil analysis that shows the 2.4 thins the oil pretty severely and the slight bump in viscosity might help. I wouldn’t be concerned about it hurting anything. But that’s just my opinion to each their own. If you use a quality 0w30 with same intervals as required by subaru and they reject it I’d be shocked.
 
41 - 60 of 133 Posts