I like to know if we can pull #XX fuse to reset the liftgate(ONLY) instead of disconnecting battery.

Power lift gate jammed shut

 

...It sure would be nice to have (a) An indicator showing that the tailgate is in this mode and (b) A way to reset that does not require a metric socket set and some mechanical aptitude.... just say'n....

i like to know if we can pull #XX fuse to reset the lift gate(ONLY) instead of disconnecting battery?

https://www.ascentforums.com/forum/...ubaru-ascent-complaints-issues-problems/3813-power-lift-gate-jammed-shut-2.html

I'm trying to find that info for you all, but I still haven't gotten the electrical portion of the service manual, and, none of the fuse markings in the manual show which it is.

 

Someone else from that thread posted above, mentioned this:

I also ran into this problem the other night. Got home, parked, tried the power gate by the dash button as normal. Just a constant beep and it won't open. Tried the button on the fob - same thing. Tried locking the car, unlocking the car, etc. Before resetting the battery or (ugh) calling the dealership, I read through the manual.

Found the instructions on page 157 - Initialization of power rear gate. You have to keep holding the rear gate button for at least ten seconds and you'll hear it unlock. Hope this helps someone out

Does that not work in all cases?

 

Someone else from that thread posted above, mentioned this:

Wow!!! Thanks, following your instruction made me unlock the tailgate

Does that not work in all cases?

 

Tailgate would not open, had to get in car, remove the cover on the tailgate and use a flathead screwdriver to open. Opened and shut it again, the auto door won't work at all......

 

Try this:

page 157 - Initialization of power rear gate. Keep holding the rear gate button for at least ten seconds.

That will hopefully reset it.

 

Dealer fixed it today. Service manager is going to try to get me a new battery for my car. He also said that there will be a software update in the future for tailgate issues.

 

Removing the negative terminal only worked for me (10mm socket wrench). That would save a few seconds vs removing both leads.


I got the idea from the instructions for installing the fog light kit. That was the first step they had me do, and I remembered it.

 

Hey guys, I was trying to come up with a way to keep the hatch from killing the battery while open. Tried a few different things, caused a few different problems, but finally may have worked it out.

At one point I had the hatch to where it wouldn't open or close and simply beeped. I really didn't want to mess with the battery cables so I was excited to find the info about the fuses under the dash (thanks @mr.paul). Turns out it's Fuse #14. That one did the trick. Pull it out, wait a few seconds, put it back in.

I also shot some videos of my findings if you're interested.

How to get the hatch unstuck if you screw it up:

 

***Standby, These solutions may not be completely valid. Testing still underway.***

 

Standby, These solutions may not be completely valid. Testing still underway.

What's the latest on your testing? Someone suggested I try finding an auto electrician to make an internal switch that kills Fuse #14. Do you think that will work?

 

I just called SOA to follow up on my complaint. She said that the complaints go to the product development team...end of story.
Also spoke to my service manager to see what the status is on the software update. There is no update at the time. Maybe never.
I learned that the instrument panel cluster pulls energy from the battery in addition to the open tailgate.
I tried to get more information from him, but he was pretty tight lipped.

 

I haven't had this happen before, but I think the manual somewhere states to hold the driver side hatch release button 10 or more seconds to reset the lock/latch?

The Problem: New Ascent (about 50 miles on it) I tried to open the tailgate from driver seat. The car's new and I'm just learning so I fumbled with the button pressing and releasing twice in rapid succession. Tailgate made clunk sound and then got a high-pitched beep that would not stop. Tailgate appeared in closed position. No idiot lights or messages on console. Could not open the tailgate manually or with key fob. Beep would not stop. Car seemed to be OK otherwise. It would start, drive, park, and lock and unlock OK. Tailgate kaput.

The Solution: I disconnected both battery leads and touched the leads together for several seconds. When the leads were disconnected the beep (of course) stopped. After touching leads together I reconnected them to the battery and the beep did not return. At this point the tailgate worked fine and all is sweetness and light.

The Explanation: So the service manager explained that the tailgates are finicky beasties and have special logic in them that tries to prevent motor burn out should the gate be opening and closing at the same time (double button push?). Once the gate gets into a "safety mode" it will not open or close and just sits there like a lox complaining with a beep sound. Doing the battery dance resets things sort of like CTRL-ALT-Delete for the car.

Subaru: It sure would be nice to have (a) An indicator showing that the tailgate is in this mode and (b) A way to reset that does not require a metric socket set and some mechanical aptitude.... just say'n....

 

Yes.. this worked for me on my 2018 Outback. My hatch was stuck closed with the load continous beep. I called the Subaru Service Center and they told me to push the release button on the hatch for 10 seconds. I did, and it worked.

 

If anyone has battery problems, or any for that matter, it would be good for us if you could let Subaru know. Send an email and be as specific as possible regarding length of time you left the tailgate open. Send your email to: Jeff Walters, Senior VP of Sales (also responsible for Field Services): JWAL@subaru.com Be sure to include your VIN number.
Join the Subaru Ascent Dead Battery Club on FB.

 

My 2019 Ascent is only a month old and we had this happen today. I disconnected the battery before reading this to stop the high pitch sounds and rest the tailgate. Good to know for next time. Thanks everyone for the tips.

 

My 2-month old 2019 Ascent with 3300 miles just did this. The rear gate won't open and the constant high-pitched ringing noise is killing me! I tried to pull Fuse 14 (from a video someone else posted) but it did not work. How do you disconnect the battery? Is there a video I can watch? I know nothing about car engines.

UPDATE: My husband came home and showed me how to disconnect the battery.

 

So the tailgate getting stuck shut with the annoying warning tone, happened to me this weekend. I had to drive 30 min home with the bloody thing blaring.

I ended up disconnecting on terminal of the battery and that reset it properly. But this is a major PITA. I really don't want to have to carry a socket wrench with me.

Can anyone confirm that pressing the hatch button on the lower dash panel for 10 seconds, indeed works to reset the system?

 

I've had an issue with our 2019 Premium rear gate not opening accompanied by a continuous tone. This issue only occurs when trying to open the rear gate with the dash button, never when using the button on the rear gate or the one on the fob. When this issue first happened four months ago the Subaru dealership replaced the rear gate control module, but the problem still persists intermittently, most recently this morning. I have now decided to only use the fob or rear gate button, and no longer use the dash button as driving home with the continuous alarm tone ringing in my ears is annoying to say the least. I also carry a 10mm wrench to remove the negative battery cable as that is the only way I've found to correct the problem, if only temporarily, if I'm located a long distance from home. Of course this then requires resetting certain settings lost when the battery is disconnected. BTW, suggestions in this thread to depress the rear gate button for at least ten seconds as a method to correct this issue does not work for me, only disconnecting the battery cable. Matter of fact, I've also tried depressing the dash button for an extended period of time to see if that would have some effect, but no luck. Once getting it open after disconnecting, then reconnecting the battery cable, reinitializing the rear gate IAW the procedure in the manual appears to not resolve the issue as the rear gate still acts wonky intermittently immediately after performing that procedure. I plan on resurfacing this issue with the dealership, and if necessary will contact SOA for assistance.

 

please keep us posted on the solution.

 

Ugh! Looks like this means I'm going to have to carry a wrench with me. So stupid. My wife hates German cars. She thinks they have crappy electronics. I've owned many German cars, mostly MB and Porsche and I've never had the kind of electrical gremlins this Subie and my wife's Odyssey have.

Another weird thing is if you open the door before turning off the motor, the warning chime sounds. And even after you turn the motor off the warning chime continues to sound! WTH? Even the most basic cheap rental car does not have that kind of fault!

 

Any other solutions? Tailgate is stuck shut. Tried the button for 10 seconds to no avail. This might be the straw that breaks the camels back.. tired of the jerky CVT fake shifts, lost all radio sound, and now the tailgate won’t open. Never had a car with so many problems, much less a $47k brand new one.

 

To open it disconnect the negative cable with a 10mm wrench. Take it to the dealer. There are TSBs addressing this issue, as well as some of the other issues you've included in your post (head unit updates, etc.) and they need to fix it.

 

Thanks for response Army Guy. I missed the post previously about pulling the #14 fuse. Tried that before disconnecting the battery and the fuse worked. Still ridiculous. I tried to take the car into the dealer for the radio issue but they couldn’t schedule me for 2 days. Busy I guess. By the time I took it in, the radio was working and they couldn’t replicate the problem. They said to bring it back, no appointment needed, next time it did it. It’s all really frustrating as we like the vehicle even despite its multiple flaws. Really wish they could get the CVT “shifts” worked out aka deleted.

 

FWIW: P419 in the manual shows how to unlock and open the gate manually by accessing the latching mechanism through a small hatch from inside the vehicle.

 

When I was having this problem I was aware of this procedure, but at 65 and with a load of groceries it was just easier disconnecting the negative battery cable with my 10mm wrench I started carrying in the glove box, though pulling the correct fuse would be even quicker I suppose.

 

Har! Yeah. I'm a few years older than you and was able to do it, but I def aint as limber as I used to be. Battery terminal would require even less contortions that pulling the fuse.

 

Thanks to whoever did the research on pulling #14 fuse to re-set the tailgate.
I did a twitch double tap on the button by mistake a few days ago and went crazy trying to get the tailgate to open.
I got the double beep though vs the constant beep.
Subaru engineering needs to solve this, just by the fact that this thread exists proves it's an issue.

 

I had this super annoying problem happen to me today. Tailgate completely closed with a constant tone. It was not responding to any control to open, whether the car was on or off.

Thanks to this thread, I didn't have to mess with the battery. I pulled that fuse out with a pair of needle nose pliers. After 10 seconds I put it back in and everything was as good as new.

I'm just happy I was at home where I have my tools and it wasn't my wife driving.

 

There is a recent TSB that replaced the TG control module. IDK if it address this issue or not.

 

Just had this happen while at the gas station to fill up 3 cans of gas. Holding either button for 10 seconds did nothing. Could not get the dang fuse out. Had to climb through to pull the cans out and fill them and put back in. Popped the cover off the inside of the tailgate and unplugged the harness but it did nothing and without the manual I didn't want to lose a finger tip blindly probing around in there. I was able to pull the fuse at home after a 10 minute beeping ride using a needle nosed plier. That fixed it. Guess I need to buy a fuse puller or keep a needle nose in the glovebox now. I am glad it was me and not my wife that it happened to. Of course my manual was in the trunk tray so I'm glad that this group provided the answer without having to dig it out.

 

For future reference, this is how to open it from inside the rear hatch.

 

I also just found in another thread that there is a fuse puller in the fusebox inside the engine compartment.