Here is a list of repairs without having to open the pdf attachment....

Mileage: 53,832
Concern: On cold start and when at low rpm, vehicle jolts and makes noise (sound recording provided by customer).
Cause: Bad CVT.
Repair: Replace CVT assembly.


Mileage: 83,070
Concern: Fluid leak.
Cause: Technician could not find a fluid leak other than A/C.

Concern: Popping noise occurs when turning left and straightening wheel.
Cause: Technician could not duplicate - customer provided tech with video of occurence. Tech found the driver front axle to be clicking, causing a popping noise.
Repair: Removed and replaced left front axle. Removed and replaced axle nut and cotter pin for the castle nut on ball joint. Reinstalled wheel and torqued to specification.


Mileage: 88,834
Concern: Oil leak on ground.
Cause: Found leak coming from driver front axle seal. Upon visual inspection of driver front axle seal found that driver front differential side retainer is damaged and has a chunk missing out of it.
Repair: Replaced axle seal.
Technician note: If leak is still present driver side front differential side retainer will need to be replaced.

Concern: Front passenger wheel area creates clunk when over bumps.
Cause: Steering and suspension repair needed - Driver and passenger front struts, mounts and bearings.
Repair: Part was ordered for repair (to be repaired 11/13).


Mileage: 88,834
Repair: Passenger and driver front strut and mount replacement (alignment was also recommended and done after strut replacement).


Mileage: 95,928
Concern: During routine service tech noticed driver side front axle is leaking.
Note: Tech noticed on driver side front axle, CVT is missing a piece.
Repair: New driver side front axle seal.


Mileage: 96,774
Concern: Loud bang - car inoperable almost causing major accident - towed.
Cause:

• Tech found driver front axle has popped out from transmission.
• Found the "C" clip of the axle is worn which won't hold the axle in as tight anymore. which is why the axle was able to pop out.

Repair:

• Tech removed old axle and replaced the axle trim on transmission.
• Tech then install new axle seal and driver front axle.

Mileage: 99,039
Concern: Clicking / popping noise heard when turning wheel. Advisor has video of noise.
Cause: Driver side axle seal is leaking.
Repair: Replace driver front axle seal and passenger side front axle assembly. Perform front differential service.


Mileage: 99,667
Concern: When turning right and turning wheel back straight knocking occurs. Leaking aslo occuring.
Repair: Currently recommending passenger front strut mount bearing & a driver side axle seal and ring gear o ring.

 

Certainly not a common issue but I can see how it's been frustrating to you.

 

Under the assumption you do not currently have, nor ever had a lift...

This sounds like a differential issue, not an axle issue. C Clips don't wear from normal use, nor even from installing and reinstalling. The popping sound seems likely to be because the axle popped out and kept popping back in, which leaves me to believe the issue is internal to the differential where the C Clip sits.

When it pops, the axle can chew the sundial bearing carrier, causing a "chunk missing". It can also eat the gear inside.

I'm insanely swamped with preparation for our Make-A-Wish charity drive and a few other big events, but, if no one has shown all of this to you, I can pull out some of my "spare parts" and show you what I am talking about.


"If leak is still present driver side front differential side retainer will need to be replaced."

That's actually inside of the differential, green arrows. The axle shafts with the circlips slide into where the orange arrows are. Those are behind the sundial bearing carriers, which wrap around them and control gear lashing (and seal the unit).

 

Under the assumption you do not currently have, nor ever had a lift...

This sounds like a differential issue, not an axle issue. C Clips don't wear from normal use, nor even from installing and reinstalling. The popping sound seems likely to be because the axle popped out and kept popping back in, which leaves me to believe the issue is internal to the differential where the C Clip sits.

When it pops, the axle can chew the sundial bearing carrier, causing a "chunk missing". It can also eat the gear inside.

I'm insanely swamped with preparation for our Make-A-Wish charity drive and a few other big events, but, if no one has shown all of this to you, I can pull out some of my "spare parts" and show you what I am talking about.


"If leak is still present driver side front differential side retainer will need to be replaced."

That's actually inside of the differential, green arrows. The axle shafts with the circlips slide into where the orange arrows are. Those are behind the sundial bearing carriers, which wrap around them and control gear lashing (and seal the unit).

View attachment 27783

Thank you for the explanation - and good luck with the charity drive! And to your assumption.....no lift, and no rough riding or towing....just a mom on suburban streets!

 

@jojo12

 

@jojo12

This is extremely helpful!!! Thank you!

 

I had a similar issue, but with another brand of car. Did you buy the car new? My issues where from my car being hit previously in the front, and the shop didn't get the cars body correctly aligned from the accident.

 

Bought it new - no accidents. Hardly even a scratch - even after 5 years!

 

reading your service history synopsis and the rest of these comments as well as the video; I would say the time the CVT was replaced the tech/techs messed up your differential.

 

I just had my deferential replaced 80,000 miles. I bought used

 

I have had a right strut replaced a few moths ago and recently had the left side checked after hearing a clunking sound. Dealer mechanic inspected the entire assembly on the left and said that there are no issues. I have just over 50,000 miles in five years. No other issues have surfaced.

 

If it's an intermittent clunk, replace the sway bar bushings. $10-12 in parts, 20 minutes to an hour for labor depending on how good you are with a wrench and whether or not you have car ramps. BOTH wheels must be in the same position (on ground or both off).