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OEM Cargo Lighting Kit Panel and Harness Install

16K views 50 replies 25 participants last post by  RGR  
#1 · (Edited)
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Works independently with the original small light on...

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Or off.


Hello!

For anyone wondering about the new OEM cargo light panel kit, (part number H461SXC200) and wire harness, (part number H461SXC211), I wanted to let you know this install is much easier than the instructions make it seem.

The wire harness is only required for MY 2019-2022 Ascents. MY 2023-later apparently have the harness already prewired and ready to go, making the install for those model years very simple and would probably take about 5 minutes, if that.

For our 2019, I would estimate it took me about 30-45 minutes from start to finish. And that was with me futzing around never having removed these panels before and not really knowing where clips were or how the panels detached.

The instructions call for a few different tools, but all you really need is a philips head screw driver (for one screw, yes, just one), a small flat head screw driver (to pop out the small original cargo light), and your hands. A trim prying tool may also help, but I don't think its necessary and would just be something nice to have.


You might want to view this gallery in backwards order. I don’t know why they reversed themselves when I posted the gallery. I uploaded these in correct order.


Steps I took-

I started at the top cargo panel that is getting replaced with the new LED insert light panel.

1. Wedge your fingers underneath the panel towards your right side (passenger side), between the panel and the headliner then work your left hand around to the far right edge of the panel and gently pull down. You'll hear the pops of the round clips coming out and just work your way to the left (drivers side). There are no wires attached to this original piece so it should just come right off.

2. Next, remove the one screw hidden behind the small cover as seen in this photo.
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3. Then starting from the top of the drivers side cargo paneling at the seatbelt panel. Just use your hands and start gently prying at the top working your way down towards the sill and pop out the few round clips along the outside edge. You are making room for routing the harness wire. You should be able to make about 3-4 inches of clearance to work. More than enough. No need to remove the 3rd row seating!

4. Take a look at these photos to see where about I placed the zip ties (I just used 3 or 4 for mine) and the locations of the adhesive tabs. Pay attention to where you stick the adhesive tabs so the panel goes back in place, don’t block and clips, stand offs, or the place where the screw goes back in. ALSO, be sure not to zip tie the harness to your rear glass water sprayer hose…or you’ll probably end up with problems later…

5. Hook back up the original cargo light to the new harness connector. I found that routing the cargo light harness connection oriented downward like a ‘y’ appeared to give the connection the least amount of flex or stress on the wires.

6. Now connect and route the LED panel connector to the other end of the harness at the top.

7. Pop everything back together, replace that one screw and cover, and you're good to go! Last thing to note is to simply finesse the black foam pieces on the new panel into where they need to be. There was one stubborn foam piece causing the panel not to sit flush near the harness/led panel connector. I just used a plastic trim tool to massage and tuck the foam piece back in place and was good to go.


Easy peasy, and lots of light!

I’ll grab a couple before and after photos later tonight when it gets dark.


Also, original Subaru installation instructions can be found in @Robert.Mauro post for this cargo light panel -
 

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#6 ·
If you get it at the dealer and have a 23+ I'd say they should install it for free as part of your service. It is plug and play and requires no tools. Regarding the broken clips I discovered when installing the sill that they broke some of the clips for the storage area when installing my tow hitch. I was able to reuse the clips from my old sill to fix that issue...so don't assume the dealer would do a better job...or be as thorough as we would be to ensure everything is perfect ;)
 
#4 ·
I installed mine this weekend as well. A little less than 45-minutes taking my time. The new lighted panel comes with new clips so the existing ones on the current panel are not re-used. That means in the off chance you were to break a clip you would already have some spares on hand. There is absolutely no reason to disassemble half of the vehicle as shown in the Subaru instructions!
 
#9 ·
In my photos, yes, because I still have the OEM incandescent interior lights, which I prefer over the LED upgraded ones.

However, when I’m in the back and open the hatch, when it’s still light outside the overhead cargo light makes it seem like the sun is shining inside the cargo area, kind of like the sun roof goes all the way to the back. So the difference in kelvin color doesn’t matter.

But at night, you really have to be prepared to have your eyes assaulted because this light is BRIGHT! Although, that may have something to do with the painters drop cloth we have in ours reflecting more light up to my eyes vs the black carpet otherwise.

either way, if I were to guess, I’d say this overhead OEM cargo light panel has a 5500-6000ish kelvin color. It’s definitely not a warm color but it’s not overly blue/cool either.
 
#22 ·
Absolutely, the new overhead cargo light acts just as it should. It dims and fades to off just like the interior lights do and the now redundant original tiny cargo light.

Here’s a short I took with closing the door to show the light dimming to off.


I have not tried letting the lights time out to off and then flipping the overhead cargo light switch ‘off-on’ to see if it turns back on. It might?
 
#26 ·
This is a very easy install if you have a '23 or later, as the power connector is already there in the upper right-hand side or the lift gate opening. No tools are required. (OK, maybe you should have some cable snips ready to cut a tie-wrap during installation.) The supplied part even comes with a black zip tie to secure the power wire once it is plugged in. Here are the steps:
  • Work your fingers underneath the upper gate opening cover, from the headliner side, a few inches in from the right hand side. Gently pull down until the plastic retainer clip pops out. (Why to start from this side will become obivous later.) You will see some wires underneath and will now have more room to work your hands in.
  • Working right to left, slide your hands down to the next plastic ciip (there are 4 in all) and pull down gently until the clip pops out.
  • When you pop out the clip on the left hand side of the panel, it will not release completely until you gently work it down to release it from a small friction tab on the side facing you that holds it to the side panel. Take your time to remove it.
  • For the next steps, it help to have two pairs of hands. Have a pair of cable snips handy. Remove the LED panel from its packaging and turn the switch to the off position While you do the installation.
  • While your assistant holds the LED panel up, attach the power supply connector to the matching receptacle on the upper right side of the gate opening. The connector is keyed, so it should be impossible to attach it incorrectly. Ensure that it clicks securely into place.
  • Take the tie-wrap and wrap secure the power cable around the large foam cushion to the other wires at the to of the opening. Take care not to place the rather bulky foam-covered connector where it would get in the way of one of the attachment clips. Clip off the excess with your cable snips.
  • Test the light before proceeded by turning on the switch. Good? Turn it back off until you reattach the panel.
  • Working left to right, match the clips to their attachment hold and press the panel up firmly until you hear a click. Check the weather seal to make sure it isn't caught underneath the newly installed panel. If it is, genltly pull it back out into position, or remove the panel and reattach properly. When you get to the rightmost clip, you may have to apply a little right to left pressure on the panel to get it to mate up nicely. Push up the last clip to attach and check your weather stripping.
  • Turn the switch back to the on position, and check that things light up. Voila! Let there be light! Close the hatch and the LED panel will dim and then extinguish after about 10 seconds or so.
Total installation time: about 5 minutes. I spent most of my time fiddling with how to carefully get the panel off without breaking anything. Once you see how it is put together, it is easy to figure out how to reattach. There is some tape up there that is securing wires to the metal frame that had fallen off. I reattached it to the frame, but suspect that it was probably put there for ease of assembly and not for permanently securing wires.

Here is the finished product. So much better!
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#30 ·
Just did my cargo light on my '23 Ascent. Didn't even take 5 minutes. Pull, rip it out, line the new one up, pound it in & then make sure all the weather stripping is clear. So easy. So much better now! Now I'm gonna want to change the original trunk light to the new color temperature to match. Anyone have a line on the proper bulb? I'm sure it's in the forums here...just being a lil lazy before I get to searching. Thanks for the threads showing us how easy it is. It's even easier than I thought. Not sure why I bought pry tools for this project. They weren't necessary. And I also didn't need to tie any wires or cut anything. I just stuffed the wiring in the free space and popped it closed.
 
#31 ·
Hi guys! I bought my unit from SecurePartsForYou.com. With shipping and handling it was $161.79 delivered to the front door. Taking the old trim off was super-fast. Connecting the power to confirm the unit works was seconds. However, as I tried to put the new one in, something was wrong. I tried and tried which made me upset because in my long life I had taken apart and put together a large number of auto panels. Then I looked down at the old unit and saw that one of the clips was missing. Sure enough, it was still in the hole preventing anything from lining up correctly. Once I used a V-slot trim tool to remove it; everything popped right in. By the way, the most useful use of the other end of the trim tool in this effort was to run it under the weather stripping from one end to the other to make sure that it is not folded under the new panel. I can't wait for dusk to see the difference.
 
#32 ·
Yes, it was a very very easy install on my '23 Touring.

Not sure why the installation instructions mention removal of the third row seats. Perhaps it is needed on the older models?

The process took maybe 3 minutes with the help of a pry tool. Putting it back and checking if weather strip outside is sealed took maybe 2 extra minutes.
 
#33 ·
Yes, it was a very very easy install on my '23 Touring.

Not sure why the installation instructions mention removal of the third row seats. Perhaps it is needed on the older models?

The process took maybe 3 minutes with the help of a pry tool. Putting it back and checking if weather strip outside is sealed took maybe 2 extra minutes.
So lucky! Yeah, the 22' and older have to install the wiring, so it needs a bit more work.
 
#38 ·
I just got around to it. A little janky at the moment, but I used these Orange Color Correction Gel Filter Sheet 1/2 CTO (It said it converts 5500k daylight to 3800k) along with some double sided tape.
I'm not sure how long it will last, but I'm pretty darn happy about the result.

Steps:
1. Remove trim and disconnect wire.
2. You can pop out the led bar by removing the screws on the 2 plates.
3. Cut the gel filter sheet to size.
4. Lay an entire rope of double sided tape, BUT do it along with the sheet to press out air bubbles.
5. Pop led bar in and reinstall plates.
6. Reinstall trim.

 
#40 ·
I just installed the kit on my 2019 Premium. In my case I did buy the extra wiring harness, and I'm glad I did. It has a Y on the one end that allows you to just snap the connector from that pathetic light on the driver's side panel into the hardness, and the other end of the Y goes into the power wire connector.

It's literally two screws to loosen the driver's side panel (the one below the seat belt panel). You don't even have to pull the panel off. Just get underneath the weather stripping and tug the panel so it comes away from the body of the vehicle. Then thread the harness down there with a fish tape. Super easy.

The other end of the harness goes into the connector of the light bar. Remove the old trim piece and replace it with the light bar. Snap it into place. Confirm operation. Snap the rest of the trim pieces back into place and replace the screws. DONE.
 
#43 ·
Agreed, unlikely. It gives an opportunity for additional revenue to sell it as an accessory and doesn't add to the MSRP of the car trim. Additionally, accessories are installed at the port, not when the car is assembled. Maybe a new body style may have a better light by design, but my guess is for the current model the core design is for the original lighting.
 
#50 ·
I am late to the game on this one. Seemed way too expensive, so I ignored it. Twice in the last few weeks, my wife has mentioned that the lighting back there is less than adequate. I installed it yesterday on our 2020. I did remove the 10 mm bolt on the left rear cargo ring and the one screw on the left upper rear quarter panel. That allowed me to pop that off and have PLENTY of room without removing the whole panel. This verified the whole process of removing the rear seat is unnecessary. WOW!! what a difference! Highly recommended. I didn’t tell my wife yet. I’m going to let her find it and then swear it’s been there the whole time, she just didn’t know about the on/off switch. LOL
Thank you for the posts on this!
 
#51 ·
A less costly alternative if you are a bit handy is to install the Oznium "bolt" lights as described in Fergie's excellent post, "Added Cargo Area Lighting - my way" (see thread below).
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They are small and discrete but put out plenty of light and wont give you flash-burns when you open the hatch on a dark night. I did the extra step of wiring them through the OEM switch so they can be turned off with the open hatch, if so desired.
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