[Robert.Mauro]

We have frame attached tie down points in the front. We have no front hook hole, and, while we have a rear one, installing the hitch deletes it.

 

[Robert.Mauro]

I don't think the tie down points are good enough for recovery points. Tie means they are built for a downwards force, not a front force.

And the rear tow hitch is perfect, just get something like this:

Learn more: Amazon.com : I_S IMPORT Heavy Solid Shank 10K LBS D-Ring Receiver Hitch Tow with 5/8" Hitch Pin : Garden & Outdoor

That's just the first google hit, I'm sure there are others out there. I use one of these on my off road jeep all the time.

That's exactly the type of hook I use.

 

[Robert.Mauro]

Page 414 of the pdf manual shows a "Front towing hook" in addition to the two front tie down tabs, which are shown on page 415. I just checked and mine does have a tow hook (it's a tab).

Yes, the hook hole refers to the screw in threaded holes other Subies have like this one on my former Outback. I should know what it's called, ugh, but I am referring to this...

We have one for the rear if the hitch hasn't been installed. But, we don't have one in the front.

 

[Robert.Mauro]

View attachment 5242 I ended up scraping this exact tow tiedown on a steep driveway. The scrapped portion of the hook is beginning to rust, I am concerned that the rust may spread and will potentially impact other metal parts connected to the tie down. Should I replace/repair the rust or am I just being overly paranoid?

It is a bolt on hook. It shouldn't affect anything else.

 

[Robert.Mauro]

so where are the recommended tow points in the front?

Ugh, so sorry. I was on my back putting my skid plate back on when I'd checked them out last. Tow point is driver's side.

I was in a rush when I made this video on lunch break, so, let me clarify a few things I muddled in my rush (thanks @Wangle).

1. (if you have the skid plate) Do NOT use the skid plate or its mounting points to TOW the car.
2. (if you have the skid plate) I would not use the skid plate as a tie-down point - as I said in the video, drilling holes into it will weaken it, just like drilling holes in anything else.
3. (if you have the skid plate) You could use one of the cross bolts as a tie down point (NOT as a tow hook) and loop a strap around the front lip of the skid plate.
4. The TIE DOWN locations are the two places I showed.
5. The front TOW location is the one point (driver's side) that I showed. It's the front factory hook attached to the frame rail
6. For the rear: (a) the rear screw in for the eye-bolt, or (b) the rear OEM hitch.
   
   
7. Tow locations CAN be used as tie down locations.
8. Tie down locations SHOULD NOT be used as tow locations.

 

[Robert.Mauro]

You could always make it beefier.......

Front D-Ring Custom Mount

The rear of the Ascent has a nice point to hook a strap to if you needed. The front only has the two points tucked way under the bumper. If you ever actually needed to use them I’m sure it would do bad things to the plastic bumper. So before I took the family out on the beaches of OBX I wanted...

www.ascentforums.com

@MikeCav

 

[Robert.Mauro]

Thanks @Brixil! I use a D-Ring through the hole, and use the soft shackle elsewhere in the pull, when doing a relatively straight pull (not of my Ascent, but of other cars). I also use very high quality, high load, D-Rings, so, I am not too worried about them failing pulling out a Subie.

I did update my post's text. Musta been asleep when I wrote the text. The video narration is correct, and now the post text matches.

 

[Robert.Mauro]

It might bend the bracket, but I do that a lot off-roading (and then bend it back). I might make a shackle point at some point, that bolts there. Others have as well. You can buy all the pieces and "upgrade" that part of it with a little welding knowledge.

Nothing easily aftermarket available yet though.

 

[Robert.Mauro]

Thanks for the kind words!!!

I have been meaning to make a beach driving tips vid, but here's a summary of some of my biggest/favorite tips:

• Always air down for sand - besides it making it really difficult to get a Subie stuck when properly aired down in sand, it makes life a LOT easier for your drivetrain and will help prevent you from overheating anything.
  • more for soft sand like Sand Hollow State Park, Ocala National Forest, the Outerbanks, Long Island's south shore beaches, etc.
  • Don't need to air down as much for harder/rocky sand like Long Island's north shore beaches (but it never hurts to air down more).
• Bring a good air compressor that can handle airing up a 6,000 pound SUV in a reasonable amount of time. These can run anywhere from $30 to $500 for an "inflate all four tires at once" system.
  • Cigarette lighter powered ones are usually the slowest (and some internal battery operated ones).
  • Ryobi, Dewalt, etc, make ones that work with their battery systems. I use a Ryobi digital settable one that doubles as an air mattress inflator.
  • There are good car powered options from Harbor Freight that are really cheap (get their one that connects directly to the battery for faster inflation).
• Bring a reliable tire gauge. I use stick gauges, as well as level style round dial higher end ones - either is fine. A cheap "Slime" brand stick gauge is generally pretty accurate.
• If you are doing this a lot (or don't like leaning over a tire for 5 minutes to deflate it), I highly suggest J.T. Brooks Tire Deflator PRO series, which are settable. I love mine.
• Go SLOW when turning, stopping, etc, so you don't pull a bead off the rim/wheel.
• If you start digging and not moving, take your foot off the gas, deflate the tires some more (good all terrains can handle 12-15 psi, great ones can handle less for beach travel), and try to back out, then go forward.

• Bring the following gear:
  • shovel (this alone and some airing down can get any Subie unstuck)
  • traction board(s)
  • tire pressure gauge
  • tire inflator
  • water (for drinking - one can get dehydrated very quickly when shoveling in the hot sun on a beach for half an hour or an hour)
• Optional gear:
  • Recoil rope or tow rope
  • Tall flag to plant in the sand or attach to the car to use in areas with dunes and turning trails where other traffic may not see you until it's too late. Plant the flag somewhere people approaching will see it before they slam into you or your car.
  • Reflective vest(s)
  • Communications device suitable for the area (eg: a cell phone is enough on Long Island beaches, but we have a satellite phone when off-roading in the desert - super cheap since we only intend to use it in the case of an emergency when we need help - they're rentable for days or weeks).
• Things not to use or to use with caution:
  • Flares and flare guns - beach grass and other flora on beaches is often very flammable.
  • Winch anchors to trees or other vegetation - they're usually not rooted well enough to winch something as heavy as an Ascent.