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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Decided to check the bolts in and around the turbo because of the know problems and sure enough these 2 were lose. I snugged them up, but looking for official torque specs if anyone has them.
 

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Turbo Picture Location

I looked for the turbo and tried to figure out where it was located based on your picture but didn't have any luck. Were you under the vehicle when you took the pic? I rolled under and couldn't see much due to the plastic rock deflector.
 

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How loose are we talking here? Also, there's a thread with info on how to obtain the service manual for around $35
 

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I looked for the turbo and tried to figure out where it was located based on your picture but didn't have any luck. Were you under the vehicle when you took the pic? I rolled under and couldn't see much due to the plastic rock deflector.
The belly pan needs to come off and then everything is in plain view. Down low, in the front-ish part of the motor. Remember the turbo is driven by exhaust gasses. Just follow the pipes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How loose are we talking here? Also, there's a thread with info on how to obtain the service manual for around $35
It hard to say without the correct torque specs as I didn't want break the bolt, but with tightening with a regular wrench it close to half turn and i think i can get another 1/4 to 1/2 on it. I put under 10ftlbs on it.

I'm wondering if these are the same bolts others have had issues with but not so sure, because i thought there was mention of 3 bolts. I will say these bolts didn't have any paint markings and alot of the others did. The heat cycling going probably speeds up this issue???
 

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I will say these bolts didn't have any paint markings and alot of the others did.
Missing the check marks. And this looks like the housing that has the boost controller in it if I am not mistaken. The other loose bolts was the flange on the exhaust side, I think. But I am not sure.
 

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Does SOA take reports of such findings as loose bolts even if they don't have the opportunity to verify the "degree of error" before the owner corrects the situation? Or do they somehow "refuse" to take such a report?
@MAGNUMB, when you mentioned "paint markings" do you mean that the markings would have been placed for some visible indicator of correct tightness, or is that an indicator of some type of "loctite" being applied?

[pls be gentle in replies to what might seem obvious for those super-heroes who do their own car maintenance and replair]
 

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Does SOA take reports of such findings as loose bolts even if they don't have the opportunity to verify the "degree of error" before the owner corrects the situation? Or do they somehow "refuse" to take such a report?
@MAGNUMB, when you mentioned "paint markings" do you mean that the markings would have been placed for some visible indicator of correct tightness, or is that an indicator of some type of "loctite" being applied?

[pls be gentle in replies to what might seem obvious for those super-heroes who do their own car maintenance and replair]
It is common from industrial applications, commercial, infrastructure, vehicles, equipment, etc. that when you have bolts that need to be tightened to a specific spec, or that are very critical, that either a paint/marker or other indicator is used to show the position of the bolt or nut when it was last torqued or verified/inspected. Some bolts on vehicles are like this from the assembly line and inspection. It varies which are marked, mostly up to each OEM/plant.
 

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when you mentioned "paint markings" do you mean that the markings would have been placed for some visible indicator of correct tightness, or is that an indicator of some type of "loctite" being applied?
They mark suspension and engine bolts as part of the checking and verification process. Bolts without paint tics on them or adjacent to them were not checked.
 

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So my previous understanding was the loose bolts were on the exhaust flange. That looks to be on the inlet.
 
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So my previous understanding was the loose bolts were on the exhaust flange. That looks to be on the inlet.
That's what I thought. So this is new discovery.
More info needed. Regular wrench but applied ‘under 10ft-lb’ and got 1/2 a turn on it. No indications of any issues and no current known torque specs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
More info needed. Regular wrench but applied ‘under 10ft-lb’ and got 1/2 a turn on it. No indications of any issues and no current known torque specs.
This bolt should be able to take at least 14ft lbs i would think being it's a 12mm-14mm if i remember correctly and going into alloy?? Not sure what grade bolt it is though.
I could see with all the heat cycles these bolts go through that they could loosen. I'm going to get under there again soon to change oil and i'll check with a digital torque as to how much i tightened it i know it wasn't much....I do alot of work on Snowmobiles, ATV and dirt bikes and these have a ton of 10mm-14mm bolts and I have decent feel as to what they take and when the bolt starts to stretch.
 

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All I'm saying is without a torque wrench you don't know how much torque was applied and you don't know what was called for. 10ft-lbs is really light. Like resting your arm while holding onto the wrench will be close to 10ft-lbs. So if you pushed or pulled I'd bet you were well over 10ft-lbs.
You could be right, they could be loose but without knowing what is needed on the vacuum side of the turbo you can't really say they were loose from spec.
 
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Torque Specs

So

  • The three (2 sets of three) turbo stud bolts are 10.8 ft-lb torque
  • The two water pipe bolts are 23.6 ft-lb torque
  • The three bolts on "intake duct" #3 are 11.8 ft-lb
  • The two bolts on intake duct #1 (I think that's what's on your pic) are 4.7 ft-lb

Hope that helps.

If you post a pic showing more of that area, circling the bolts again, I will match it up to the diagrams and let you know. But, from what seems like a duct on the left side, it looks like it's Intake Duct #1, and thus 4.7 ft-lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
All I'm saying is without a torque wrench you don't know how much torque was applied and you don't know what was called for. 10ft-lbs is really light. Like resting your arm while holding onto the wrench will be close to 10ft-lbs. So if you pushed or pulled I'd bet you were well over 10ft-lbs.
You could be right, they could be loose but without knowing what is needed on the vacuum side of the turbo you can't really say they were loose from spec.
I understand what you are saying, but resting your arm on a 5-6 inch wrench does not get 10ftlbs. Replaced spark plugs on my Legacy this weekend which called for 13ftlbs and used about a 9" torque wrench and it was a lot more than resting just your arm weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So

  • The three (2 sets of three) turbo stud bolts are 10.8 ft-lb torque
  • The two water pipe bolts are 23.6 ft-lb torque
  • The three bolts on "intake duct" #3 are 11.8 ft-lb
  • The two bolts on intake duct #1 (I think that's what's on your pic) are 4.7 ft-lb

Hope that helps.

If you post a pic showing more of that area, circling the bolts again, I will match it up to the diagrams and let you know. But, from what seems like a duct on the left side, it looks like it's Intake Duct #1, and thus 4.7 ft-lbs.
Thanks!! I'll check these again. Maybe they were ok!! 4.7 is nothing for a bolt of that size...very odd. Does it give you bolt size?
I'll take another picture in a weeks when i change my oil and i'm under there.
 

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No bolt sizes

Thanks!! I'll check these again. Maybe they were ok!! 4.7 is nothing for a bolt of that size...very odd. Does it give you bolt size?
I'll take another picture in a weeks when i change my oil and i'm under there.
Alas, no, but it should be in the parts catalog at https://parts.subaru.com/ if you want to dig before I get a chance. Here's the relevant drawing for Intake 1 from the service manual.
 

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