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Well, I'm not with my Ascent, so any recommendation, say from amazon, that would fit?

I was going to get your recommended kit for the rear as I do have the factory hitch:


Would the shackle in this kit fit the front as well? I believe it says its a 3/4"

Thanks for the help... heading to the snow with the Ascent for the first time...
Just a thought, you may want two shackles, since the other vehicle may not have one. This is the set I ordered: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B075CG2...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
 

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Resurrecting an old thread, but it's the best fit I found and don't need to start a new one.

If you were only going to get one tool would it be a recovery strap or kinetic rope? After today's misadventure, I want to get one, but don't plan on doing any real off-roading.
 

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They both do the job. I went with strap because it was less expensive and what I am used to.
 

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They both do the job. I went with strap because it was less expensive and what I am used to.
This was kind of what I was thinking. Especially since I can get a RhinoUSA Recovery strap and 2 D-rings as well as a hitch mount for 1 D-ring for the cost of just the kinetic rope.

But I'm definitely open to ideas.
 

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A kinetic rope should only be used when one knows exactly how to. A kinetic rope will allow recovery in situations where a car is stuck and needs more force applied to pull it out, with less shock on the vehicle's body. I prefer a kinetic rope for off-road towing, because it will absorb some of the yanks involved, but use a tow strap on trails or road. If someone is stuck in mud, it's MUCH easier to pull them out with a kinetic rope, with a lot less instant-force to either car. That's critical when towing someone from an eye-hook in a bumper.

A tow rope should never be used as a yank rope. A jeep tried that with a Crosstrek's eye hook, and ripped the bumper off after bending in the subframe.

On the other hand, if the car is powerful enough, and has enough traction, a tow rope can ease the stuck car out. Here, I use an overrated recoil rope (it's acting as a tow rope, because it's over-rated) to ease a stuck Crosstrek out.

That brings up something else. A recoil rope should be rated at 2.5 to 3 times the weight of the car to be towed. The more the rating exceeds that, the more it acts like a tow rope, like in the video. I have a recoil rope rated properly for towing, but, rarely need it (would have come in handy pulling the Forester out in the beginning, but, it wasn't packed that trip).
 

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For anyone with a hitch, I highly recommend the Factor 55 HitchLink 2.0 (Factor55 dot com). Then use a soft shackle rather than a D-ring (Factor 55 has soft shackles too) to attach the snatch rope to the HitchLink. You should get a 1/2" soft shackle which is appropriately rated for an Ascent (sources Factor 55, ASR Offroad, Bubba Rope). Then get a good snatch strap. I recommend a 3/4" x 20'-30'. ASR Offroad, SmittyBuilt, and Bubba make a good ones. Stay with a brand name and that will ensure you are getting a high quality and proper synthetic rope. Absolutely never pull on a receiver ball!!! For the front or rear tow points, you will need a D-ring. Soft shackles will get damaged by the sharp edges on the tow points. So, if you don't have a hitch, use a D-ring. If you have a tow hitch, stick with a soft shackle for the rear. They are much safer by eliminating the possible metal projectile (i.e., the D-ring). There are many great videos on how to recover a vehicle in sand. Watch them.

The two points are really meant to tie down the vehicle during transportation or pulling on level ground. They are not appropriate for recovery. The best way out of sand is with a shovel and treads such as MaxTrax. But the treads take up space and are costly. Also, air down your tires, but that means you'll need an air compressor to air up.

The reality is that if you stay on the "safe sand" you will probably never get stuck with a Subaru and you won't need to have all this equipment (except when required by local ordnance). That said...Murphy's Law.
 
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