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Sway Bushings and Skid Plates

11K views 23 replies 12 participants last post by  FourMoBro 
#1 ·
Yesterday (Saturday) I received my skid plate package from Primitive Racing. Since I had nothing going on in the afternoon, I decided to install the skid plates and swap out my sway bar bushings from @traildogck. If you are interested in the skid plates, refer to this thread: https://www.ascentforums.com/threads/primitive-racing-skid-plate-group-buy.7863/ . If you want the bushings, contact chris directly. I spent about 5hrs total start to end with all the setup and clean up and breaks doing this. I promised pics today (Sunday) but it is warm out and they will have to wait until tomorrow (Monday). This is how it went:

First of all, I bought a complete set of front and rear sway bushings many months ago in both 75d and 85d. I installed the 75d in the rears 8 months ago? I figured let's see how the 85d do in the rear and swap out the OEM fronts with the 75d set since I was going to be under the car anyway. My driveway is an incline and I back the Ascent up the driveway to park. So for me, no need for ramps to do the rear bushings and the rear diff skid plate.

Rear bushings: I would rate the level of difficulty for these as a 2, on a scale of 1-10 1 being easy, 10 being hard. It turned out for me a level 3-4 as the driver side gives me problems. And, stupid me, I had to redo the brackets as I put them in backwards. No biggie, just more time spent. So the 75d came out, and the 85d went in.
Rear diff cover: I would rate the level of difficulty as being a 1 to install. Thing to note is that you are loosening bolts on the rear diff cover. If you don't move fast enough, the diff fluid will start to seep out. Just a fair warning to have tools ready to tighten things up, and only loosen as much as needed to pivot the plate.

After the back end was done, I moved cars around and got the Ascent up on ramps for the front wheels in the garage. First thing was to remove the factory plastic skid plate, setting aside hardware that would be reused and bagging the items no longer needed. Man I hate those pop-its. Some are a real B to get out. I then started on the front skid plate install.

Front Skid plate: I would rate this a 3 or a 4. Nothing really hard to do here. With the OEM plastic removed, I starting by mounting the front bracket. Word of note, although shown in the picture, they never say to use the washers on the nut side. I had to remove the bolts and put the washers back on, so that took some time. Where you may spend more time is removing the turbo cooling duct from the OEM shield. They offer a cutting option. I chose to remove the "locking washers" with pliers and tin snips should I ever want to go back to stock. All I would need are new washers. So that took a few more minutes than needed. After mounting the duct to the new plate, I attached the optional front lip and took a break.

Front sway bushings: This looked like it would be a bear. Perceived LOD before working on it would say was a 5, but it ended up being a 2. I didn't want to take anything apart, hoping to do fronts like the rears. Getting to the driver's side can be done with a 6" extension. I was able to remove the bracket and bushing even though the clearance it tight. I was able to get the 75d on there with a bit of force. I don't think I would have been able to get 85d on the front doing this method. And of course, installing the brackets backwards made me redo the work. No biggie.

Once the new bushings were in, I finished attaching the front skid plate. It went back together pretty easily. I cleaned up the variety of tools to install the last plate.

Cvt plate: Level of difficulty 1. Pre-reading the instruction, I saw that the final torque value for the bolts was over 100ft-lbs. Working in a tight space I got out the breaker bar. This install was so fast, I probably spent more time typing this paragraph. Removed the 4 bolts. Install plate. Torque. Done.

After that, it was all just clean up. Again, pics will follow after the car gets a bath. I get to try out the new Chemical Guys Snubby over my pressure washer's wand. I will offer a review on that as well.
 
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#3 ·
well, it cooled off a bit so I was able to get the car washed and take a few quick pics. yes the tires need dressed and the rotors are rusted from the fresh wash...

Here is the side profile of my car. This is what 20% tint all around with 2nd and 3rd row shades installed, in too.
431

Looking closer at the front, you can see how the front lip of the skid plate is just about flush with the lower valence.
432

A head on view shows how high the front lip comes, advertising the vendor.
433

A lower 3/4 view shows the slight gap between the lip and the lower part of the skid plate.
434

Not that you can see it all that great, but here is the CVT/mid plate looking forward at the front plate.
435

Moving to the rear, this is a good look at the rear diff plate and the puny urethra, I mean exhaust pipes. No real protection from the CVT to the rear diff.
436

And since it sometimes gets asked, here is the backend shot of a debadged lift gate, custom hitch cover, and the RoKBloks mud flaps.
437


Time for bed.
 
#18 ·
well, it cooled off a bit so I was able to get the car washed and take a few quick pics. yes the tires need dressed and the rotors are rusted from the fresh wash...

Here is the side profile of my car. This is what 20% tint all around with 2nd and 3rd row shades installed, in too.
View attachment 431
Looking closer at the front, you can see how the front lip of the skid plate is just about flush with the lower valence.
View attachment 432
A head on view shows how high the front lip comes, advertising the vendor. View attachment 433
A lower 3/4 view shows the slight gap between the lip and the lower part of the skid plate.
View attachment 434
Not that you can see it all that great, but here is the CVT/mid plate looking forward at the front plate.
View attachment 435
Moving to the rear, this is a good look at the rear diff plate and the puny urethra, I mean exhaust pipes. No real protection from the CVT to the rear diff.
View attachment 436
And since it sometimes gets asked, here is the backend shot of a debadged lift gate, custom hitch cover, and the RoKBloks mud flaps.
View attachment 437

Time for bed.
It like our cars are twins, lol!!! Same armor, same hook, and bushings too!

Did you do the CVT mount?
 
#11 ·
Very nice write up.

Can you tell any handling difference by bumping up a notch at both ends with the sway bar bushings? Any harshness or negatives?
I just drove a bit and I really like this setup 75front, 85 rear. I can't think of the right adjective but everything seems much more "compliant". Less body roll it seems in the curves and going over train tracks is not harsh by any means. I really had a smile on my face. And for the record, the rest of the suspension is stock.
 
#23 ·
Hey All! I'm new around here and resurrecting and old thread, but am curious about the sway bushings and cost/benefit. Do they stiffen the ride feel? More able to absorb bumps off pavement?

I'm new to the mod thing, and have a 2022 Ascent on order (due to arrive late October). Have already decided on the Primitive Racing armor, fumoto valve for easier oil changes, and will be upgrading to more aggressive AT/Winter tires right away. Still debating if a lift is worth it as I'm not planning any major offroading; just need enough to get down forest roads to trailheads without much risk of getting stuck.

Any advice and experience would be appreciated. Thanks for the pics, BTW, @FourMoBro . Super helpful!
 
#24 ·
With just the bushings, things firmed up a bit. I recently did a long road trip with the Eibach springs installed from Dec and, as expected, the springs firmed things up even more. It really was a pleasure to drive up and down the coastal roads. I, too, do more "soft-roading" and am quite pleased with the current setup.
 
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