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Hi all, I need to run 8 gauge wire (two wires) through the firewall, on the driver's side. Anyone find a good place to run it? Pic to give you an idea of wire thickness.

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Look, @Robert.Mauro ... you can't tease us with this and not tell us what you're wiring up.

Also, are these two +12V lines? (i.e. if one is ground, aren't there suitable chassis grounding points inside the vehicle?)
 

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One is ground. They will be running this.
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No, seriously though, inside of that will be an inverter, and an entire DC charging station. I don't have a good place to frame ground where I need to connect it, and, since the connector I am using is designed for a ground, I figured, might as well go right to the battery with both.

I am using two big HDPE "plates". One will have a groove in it for the milk carton to sit on, upside down (think of it as a protection cage). The other will be smaller, and fit inside of the milk carton. It will be set upwards by about 4 inches by four acrylic rods. Power will come in through the bottom, go to power distribution blocks, and split off into inverter on the lower deck, and two big USB charging blocks that mount through the upper deck (flush with the upper deck, hanging into the lower deck).

The upper deck is 1" thick, and will have a recessed "tray" for the remaining space, where I can plug in and set my action cams.

The receptacles from the inverter (my model has two side by side - dunno why the new version has one on the side) will align with the handle opening on the upside down crate.

One of these (or my 1,200W one - but probably this one)

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Two of these 96W USB chargers
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And then, on the car itself (below the third row cupholders on the driver's side, there will be two 36W USB ports, one 12V "cigarette lighter" style port, and this 65W (on a single port) USB C adapter to charge my Thinkpad which accepts 65W USB C power feeds.
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All direct wired into a pair of power distribution blocks
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Cable fused by one of these inline on the cable from the power tower to the car's receptacle, in the back of the car, so it can be also used as a switch
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and engine compartment to a custom battery tie
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I am using a marine grade trolling motor receptacle and plug so I can unplug as necessary...
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LOL!!! There's a reason I bought a battery that's three times the "size" of the stock one it replaced. 🤣 😉

Oh, I forgot... those wires will also be feeding my true dual zone 63 quart fridge/freezer... I highly recommend this beast. I've had one side down to negative 4°F and the other side up at 30°F. Sips power.

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You only need 0° and 37° for food safety and not freezing eggs, dairy, water etc. You have good margin especially if you put in foods and drinks that are already cooled.
I know (I spent a bunch of years as a cook, many decades ago). I was testing the extremes. It's billed as a true dual zone fridge/fridge or freezer/fridge (or vice versa) or freezer/freezer, so, I wanted to see how well it handled both extremes. 30° is the highest it goes and I figured -4° is a good deep freeze that matches my household freezer. I haven't used it yet (on a trip or anything)... testing before it's in the desert, 2,000 miles from home, in May.
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It also comes with a really cool dual zone app that can lock the controls to prevent accidentally turning off the unit.

It maintained the temps on both sides, and cycles within 4° of temp (thus, a setting of 30° is actually a range of 30-34°).

The other reason for the test is that it's billed as capable of holding temp without power for a few hours... so, since we will be in the desert with it, I will be deep freezing everything to the limits of the freeze on any days we plan on disconnecting it for any period of time.

Eggs will be powdered, drinks will go in coolers with "ice" packs. Just foodstuff like chicken, steak, burgers, hot dogs, will be in the cooler. Need to fit in seven people's worth of food for a few days at a time.
 

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Usual good practice is to run a ground wire up toward the battery and connect it to the same point where the battery connects to the chassis rather than to the battery's negative terminal. These keeps the ground of your system equal to chassis ground irrespective of voltage drop on the batteries negative lead. This is also better than relying on a ground path through the chassis as there are many panels and joints in uni-bodies.
 

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I've heard that, as well as that it's better to ground to battery because one doesn't have to worry about the gauge of the grounding strap since they are bypassing it.

Bigger problem will still be getting the wires TO the engine compartment, lol!
 

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Usual good practice is to run a ground wire up toward the battery and connect it to the same point where the battery connects to the chassis rather than to the battery's negative terminal. These keeps the ground of your system equal to chassis ground irrespective of voltage drop on the batteries negative lead. This is also better than relying on a ground path through the chassis as there are many panels and joints in uni-bodies.
I found this, which is interesting, and perhaps helpful. When it's not pouring out (tomorrow evening, maybe), I will check it out.

I ran 2 10ga stranded wires (twin lead) for my transceiver through the hood release grommet. I used a fiberglass "fish tape", pushing it from inside the cabin to the fender well, where it was easily retrievable. I tied the 10ga twin lead to the end of the fish tape, and pulled them all back into the cabin, to underneath the passenger seat. Took about 15 minutes. BTW, do not connect the negative lead directly to the battery. There is a current sensor there. Instead, use the ground lug near the strut nut next to the battery. You can see my installation, with three NMO mounts, elsewhere on the site.
 

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Hey @Robert.Mauro

If you guys find any grommets or plugs in the firewall where there are any additional holes . They would certainly be behind any sound deadening material. Someone remove whatever plug/plugs there may be and get them to me. Or a part number if able to be found. I can replicate an OEM rubber plug and then punch it for whatever wire diameter is needed, with a slit. And then, BAM! instant replacement grommet for however many wires people want to run. I can even double-punch the in your case and it would not need a slit, just the pass through. I am just not familiar enough with the Ascent to know where they are. I have similar product for Gen3 OBs/Gen 4 Legacys popular enough with the LGT forum folks.
 

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Hey Chris, will do! That'd be a lot easier than me punching grommets.
 

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Hi all, I need to run 8 gauge wire (two wires) through the firewall, on the driver's side. Anyone find a good place to run it? Pic to give you an idea of wire thickness.

View attachment 11692
I ran a similar sized power cable for my Ham Radio installation. I ran the wire through the hole where the hood release cable gets routed into the engine compartment. Here is a thread that discusses that effort:
Wiring through the firewall | Subaru Ascent Forum (ascentforums.com)
 
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