Subaru Ascent Forum banner
21 - 40 of 61 Posts

Registered
Joined
1,020 Posts
Is the ground wiring visible to determine whether it is partially melted?
Yes, both wires are visible when you take the footwell cover off, without even having to pull wiring.

With the cover off, you can easily see the upper ground bolt. Sorry for the poor lighting - I was using my headlamp and was too lazy to grab a flashlight to aid in getting a better picture of the part. 馃槄

Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Trunk Automotive exterior Gas


Back that driver's seat up and stick your head in (I'm 6' even, 250 pounds of Chinese Pork Belly - I can easily get in there) -hence the head-lamp- and you can easily see the bottom one, too.

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive fuel system



You can't see under the ground connectors, of-course, just by this cursory visual, but yes, you don't have to go too far to just get a quick idea - or to hit those two bolts to check their torque.

FWIW, mine looked fine.
 

Administrator
Joined
13,264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Robert, so the PTC turns off after the engine has warmed and now circulating coolant through the heater core?
If so, if one set the heat temp at low until the engine was warm, then the PTC would not come on?
And which source does the Rear Heater use a PTC or a heater core, seem like a long way to run coolant.?
Thanx
I've read through all the posts I could find!

Why can't I just turn the climate control system OFF, with the switch, until the engine heat is sufficient to do the job? I assume the PTC Heater wouldn't be needed. I might be chilly a while but it would ease my paranoia!
@Webster, that by "low" you mean the lowest setting, since 60 degrees would kick on the PTC heater on cold days.

Here's what I know, from my learning on the Ascent from the Ascent's New Technology Training Material

Both: The PTC heater activates when the car is first started and the coolant isn't up to temperature, as well as when idling in extreme cold when engine temps are too low to handle heating the cabin (it doesn't turn on just when idling).

So, in other words: if your car is maintaining 195 degrees coolant when idling, then, the PTC heater would most likely only come on when you start the car with the heat on any setting that (a) was warmer than ambient/cabin temperature and/or (b) when recirculation wasn't on, and outside air was lower than the set temperature.

If heater coolant temp is at the Subaru 195 (+/- 1-5 degrees), the PTC heater most likely will not turn on.

And, as an added bonus, here's the best image ever circulated of the Ascent PTC heater I know of - it's from my training library. I think, things considered, Subaru won't get too mad at me for sharing it. ;)
Circuit component Cable Electrical wiring Gas Wire



Have any Ascent owners on this forum had their Ascents spontaneously burst into flames?
I might know the answer to that, but, if they're here, they've chosen not to comment, and I respect that.

Remember though, there are only TWO such people, anywhere.

Thanks for all the great information. I am a paranoid sort, though, so I still have concerns. It seems logical, as others have suggested, that if the car has been parked for several hours without bursting into flames, that it will probably remain cold until it is started again. Is this true? There is something that starts up and makes noise at some point after the car has been shut down -- is that related to this issue?
Thanks again for the knowledge.
Once the car is off, and power isn't going to it, it can't burst into flames, because there's no current arcing between the connections, causing a heat condition. So, if it WAS arcing while you were using the car, it will begin to cool. It will though, get progressively worse each time. Again though, there's arguably TWO cars out of over 271K (and 9 cars forced to have an issue).
 

Administrator
Joined
13,264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Great pics, @TSiWRX!!!

Someone over on Facebook shared a vid that will add to that. The important part isn't his commentary, but, where he pans the camera from the PTC to the ground bolt. That'll help give everyone a clear idea of where everything is.

 

Registered
Joined
410 Posts
One of the 4 Ascents is gone. The sister in law that puts on the most miles couldn't take it anymore so she gave genesis her equity for a down payment for a lease on a new all electric Genesis car.G80 So one goes on Monday and then tuseday and mine gets done on Wednesday. So our 4Ascents went down to 3 Hopefully no more defectors.We get all done next week.
 

Administrator
Joined
13,264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
What does it take to remove the foot well cover?
Hmmm... I did that a long time ago. IIRC, they're all on clips. If one is not on clips, it's the panel, but you'll find the bolt by step 3:
  1. Pull the door seal
  2. Pull the door sill
  3. Pull the panel after checking for a bolt holding it (there will also be clips)
 

Registered
Joined
5 Posts
Possibly similar question to 8gv above: what's the secret to popping the sill plate off in step one? Diagram shows a few circles on it but does not denote those as screws, plastic clips, or what. Googling for images of the sill plate looks like it almost has flat tabs on it but I'm pulling pretty hard straight up and the sill hasn't come off yet. Don't want to break plastic rivets or clips if there are any.
 

Registered
Joined
1,020 Posts
What does it take to remove the foot well cover?
and

Possibly similar question to 8gv above: what's the secret to popping the sill plate off in step one? Diagram shows a few circles on it but does not denote those as screws, plastic clips, or what. Googling for images of the sill plate looks like it almost has flat tabs on it but I'm pulling pretty hard straight up and the sill hasn't come off yet. Don't want to break plastic rivets or clips if there are any.
^

I pulled really hard, "outwards" towards the direction of the door skin while using the old greasemonkey shade-tree mechanic's method of multiplying any force needed in the Haynes Manual by at least a factor of 40.

The hash-outline circles on the diagram (on page 9, steps 3 and 4 of the remedy document - https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2022/RCRIT-22V907-2969.pdf) represent the plastic trim clips whose retention must be overcome. And yes, instead of "upwards" as figure 3 showed, I pulled "out," with my fingertips curled along the interior side of the sill. For the panel next to the dead-pedal, I curled my fingertips under the side that's closest to the dead-pedal -one set above and one set below the fastener protrusion- and "peeled.

Both parts popped free without much fuss; the plastic did give plenty of flex. If you do break a trim clip, that's unfortunately just the cost of doing business....I don't know what type they are off-hand (I remember the ones being under the sill plate are green, on my '21 Touring), but they should be readily available at auto-parts stores: I hav a bunch of different ones sitting around in my "misc. interior parts bin" from when I used to play on my cars, when I used to buy a lot of spares. Given how my parts felt, I think that even the oldest of those affected by this recall should still be OK, that it shouldn't be excessively fragile.

The dark arrow in figure 4 is a turn-screw type fastener. Use an extra-large blade flat screwdriver to undo it (it should take barely any force). When you put it back, again, remember not to use much force to "screw" it in/down, as that plastic slot will just deform.
 

Registered
Joined
1,020 Posts
Hmmm... I did that a long time ago. IIRC, they're all on clips. If one is not on clips, it's the panel, but you'll find the bolt by step 3:
  1. Pull the door seal
  2. Pull the door sill
  3. Pull the panel after checking for a bolt holding it (there will also be clips)
To the best of my recall, I did not need to pull/displace any door seals in order to liberate parts 1 or 2 (from diagram 1, page 5 - https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2022/RCRIT-22V907-2969.pdf).

I seem to remember that part 2, the front cover near the dead-pedal, did have its door edge slid under the weatherseal on that side, but it easily came free of the vehicle without pulling the seal out-of-place or otherwise displacing it. Similarly, it was easy to re-insert that part, first tucking that edge under the door seal.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Robert.Mauro

Administrator
Joined
13,264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
To the best of my recall, I did not need to pull/displace any door seals in order to liberate parts 1 or 2 (from diagram 1, page 5 - https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2022/RCRIT-22V907-2969.pdf).

I seem to remember that part 2, the front cover near the dead-pedal, did have its door edge slid under the weatherseal on that side, but it easily came free of the vehicle without pulling the seal out-of-place or otherwise displacing it. Similarly, it was easy to re-insert that part, first tucking that edge under the door seal.
I just find it easier so I don't pinch the seal.
 

Premium Member
Joined
208 Posts
I've read through all the posts I could find!

Why can't I just turn the climate control system OFF, with the switch, until the engine heat is sufficient to do the job? I assume the PTC Heater wouldn't be needed. I might be chilly a while but it would ease my paranoia!
This is exactly what i have told my wife to do. It鈥檚 going to get pretty darned cold here in the next few days and neither one of us wants the car to sleep outside when we have a nice garage for it. I鈥檓 confidant that turning off the climate control system when parking and not idling to warm up (which we don鈥檛 do anyway) will mitigate the risks to even more negligible鈥
 

Administrator
Joined
13,264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Anyone know when a fix or inspection process will begin?
Depends on your dealership. Some already got parts and are completing recalls. Call around.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
3,747 Posts
Rather than potentially breaking parts to do the inspection myself, then have to redo it at the dealership anyway, I feel comfortable waiting on this one....
With that said, my Ascent is about to see the coldest temperatures it has ever experienced this coming week, maybe down in single digits. It'll be parked outside and I'll still take a peek but I foresee it being remote started in the cold several times. The PTC heater is going to get a workout. I see 2 scenarios: my Ascent is reduced to a charred shell (unlikely), or it'll be perfectly fine (likely). If the former, I get a new Ascent. If the latter, I get status quo. Win-win, nothing to worry about.
 

Registered
Joined
410 Posts
Possibly similar question to 8gv above: what's the secret to popping the sill plate off in step one? Diagram shows a few circles on it but does not denote those as screws, plastic clips, or what. Googling for images of the sill plate looks like it almost has flat tabs on it but I'm pulling pretty hard straight up and the sill hasn't come off yet. Don't want to break plastic rivets or clips if there are any.
I can show you that door sill. I can show you that cus they scratched mine up. Damn they must be on their good. The service writer said he tried to swap it out so he didn't have to call me and tell him mine was scratched up.Get this their is a 2 month wait for this piece. My Dealer is putting a new bolt in every car and if anything is worn or loose is being replaced. So 2 of 3 Ascents already done. Don't know if I've put it out their that 1Ascent was traded in for an all electric G80Genesis car .

by

I'm guessing the part is up on the firewall, but you have to take this off to get the front off.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Window Tread
 
21 - 40 of 61 Posts
Top