RECALL: WRL-22 -- PTC Heater Ground Bolt
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Yes, both wires are visible when you take the footwell cover off, without even having to pull wiring.
With the cover off, you can easily see the upper ground bolt. Sorry for the poor lighting - I was using my headlamp and was too lazy to grab a flashlight to aid in getting a better picture of the part. 😅
Back that driver's seat up and stick your head in (I'm 6' even, 250 pounds of Chinese Pork Belly - I can easily get in there) -hence the head-lamp- and you can easily see the bottom one, too.
You can't see under the ground connectors, of-course, just by this cursory visual, but yes, you don't have to go too far to just get a quick idea - or to hit those two bolts to check their torque.
FWIW, mine looked fine.
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@Webster, that by "low" you mean the lowest setting, since 60 degrees would kick on the PTC heater on cold days.
Here's what I know, from my learning on the Ascent from the Ascent's New Technology Training Material
Both: The PTC heater activates when the car is first started and the coolant isn't up to temperature, as well as when idling in extreme cold when engine temps are too low to handle heating the cabin (it doesn't turn on just when idling).
So, in other words: if your car is maintaining 195 degrees coolant when idling, then, the PTC heater would most likely only come on when you start the car with the heat on any setting that (a) was warmer than ambient/cabin temperature and/or (b) when recirculation wasn't on, and outside air was lower than the set temperature.
If heater coolant temp is at the Subaru 195 (+/- 1-5 degrees), the PTC heater most likely will not turn on.
And, as an added bonus, here's the best image ever circulated of the Ascent PTC heater I know of - it's from my training library. I think, things considered, Subaru won't get too mad at me for sharing it.
I might know the answer to that, but, if they're here, they've chosen not to comment, and I respect that.
Remember though, there are only TWO such people, anywhere.
Once the car is off, and power isn't going to it, it can't burst into flames, because there's no current arcing between the connections, causing a heat condition. So, if it WAS arcing while you were using the car, it will begin to cool. It will though, get progressively worse each time. Again though, there's arguably TWO cars out of over 271K (and 9 cars forced to have an issue).
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Great pics, @TSiWRX!!!
Someone over on Facebook shared a vid that will add to that. The important part isn't his commentary, but, where he pans the camera from the PTC to the ground bolt. That'll help give everyone a clear idea of where everything is.
www.youtube.com
Someone over on Facebook shared a vid that will add to that. The important part isn't his commentary, but, where he pans the camera from the PTC to the ground bolt. That'll help give everyone a clear idea of where everything is.
🔥🔥🔥 Fire RISK - New Subaru Ascent Recall #shorts #subaru #recall #news #WRL22 #22V907 #ascent
A recall, WRL-22, just came out concerning 2019-2022 Subaru Ascents. Of the 270,000+ vehicles that could be affected, Subaru says only 1% have an issue with ...
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One of the 4 Ascents is gone. The sister in law that puts on the most miles couldn't take it anymore so she gave genesis her equity for a down payment for a lease on a new all electric Genesis car.G80 So one goes on Monday and then tuseday and mine gets done on Wednesday. So our 4Ascents went down to 3 Hopefully no more defectors.We get all done next week.
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Possibly similar question to 8gv above: what's the secret to popping the sill plate off in step one? Diagram shows a few circles on it but does not denote those as screws, plastic clips, or what. Googling for images of the sill plate looks like it almost has flat tabs on it but I'm pulling pretty hard straight up and the sill hasn't come off yet. Don't want to break plastic rivets or clips if there are any.
and
^
I pulled really hard, "outwards" towards the direction of the door skin while using the old greasemonkey shade-tree mechanic's method of multiplying any force needed in the Haynes Manual by at least a factor of 40.
The hash-outline circles on the diagram (on page 9, steps 3 and 4 of the remedy document - https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2022/RCRIT-22V907-2969.pdf) represent the plastic trim clips whose retention must be overcome. And yes, instead of "upwards" as figure 3 showed, I pulled "out," with my fingertips curled along the interior side of the sill. For the panel next to the dead-pedal, I curled my fingertips under the side that's closest to the dead-pedal -one set above and one set below the fastener protrusion- and "peeled.
Both parts popped free without much fuss; the plastic did give plenty of flex. If you do break a trim clip, that's unfortunately just the cost of doing business....I don't know what type they are off-hand (I remember the ones being under the sill plate are green, on my '21 Touring), but they should be readily available at auto-parts stores: I hav a bunch of different ones sitting around in my "misc. interior parts bin" from when I used to play on my cars, when I used to buy a lot of spares. Given how my parts felt, I think that even the oldest of those affected by this recall should still be OK, that it shouldn't be excessively fragile.
The dark arrow in figure 4 is a turn-screw type fastener. Use an extra-large blade flat screwdriver to undo it (it should take barely any force). When you put it back, again, remember not to use much force to "screw" it in/down, as that plastic slot will just deform.
To the best of my recall, I did not need to pull/displace any door seals in order to liberate parts 1 or 2 (from diagram 1, page 5 - https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2022/RCRIT-22V907-2969.pdf).
I seem to remember that part 2, the front cover near the dead-pedal, did have its door edge slid under the weatherseal on that side, but it easily came free of the vehicle without pulling the seal out-of-place or otherwise displacing it. Similarly, it was easy to re-insert that part, first tucking that edge under the door seal.
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I just find it easier so I don't pinch the seal.
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This is exactly what i have told my wife to do. It’s going to get pretty darned cold here in the next few days and neither one of us wants the car to sleep outside when we have a nice garage for it. I’m confidant that turning off the climate control system when parking and not idling to warm up (which we don’t do anyway) will mitigate the risks to even more negligible…
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Depends on your dealership. Some already got parts and are completing recalls. Call around.
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Rather than potentially breaking parts to do the inspection myself, then have to redo it at the dealership anyway, I feel comfortable waiting on this one....
With that said, my Ascent is about to see the coldest temperatures it has ever experienced this coming week, maybe down in single digits. It'll be parked outside and I'll still take a peek but I foresee it being remote started in the cold several times. The PTC heater is going to get a workout. I see 2 scenarios: my Ascent is reduced to a charred shell (unlikely), or it'll be perfectly fine (likely). If the former, I get a new Ascent. If the latter, I get status quo. Win-win, nothing to worry about.
With that said, my Ascent is about to see the coldest temperatures it has ever experienced this coming week, maybe down in single digits. It'll be parked outside and I'll still take a peek but I foresee it being remote started in the cold several times. The PTC heater is going to get a workout. I see 2 scenarios: my Ascent is reduced to a charred shell (unlikely), or it'll be perfectly fine (likely). If the former, I get a new Ascent. If the latter, I get status quo. Win-win, nothing to worry about.
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Do we know if all of the affected VINs have been added to the Subaru recall site yet? Mine is still not showing up (second half 2022 build).
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I can show you that door sill. I can show you that cus they scratched mine up. Damn they must be on their good. The service writer said he tried to swap it out so he didn't have to call me and tell him mine was scratched up.Get this their is a 2 month wait for this piece. My Dealer is putting a new bolt in every car and if anything is worn or loose is being replaced. So 2 of 3 Ascents already done. Don't know if I've put it out their that 1Ascent was traded in for an all electric G80Genesis car .
by
I'm guessing the part is up on the firewall, but you have to take this off to get the front off.
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Lucky the crow bar or screw driver or whatever they used didn’t scratch the paint…
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