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Premium Door Speaker Replacements

31K views 50 replies 19 participants last post by  Jay2X 
#1 ·
For those who have the Base or Premium model, and want to improved the sound quality without laying down $500 for the Rockford-Fosgate "Upgrade", replacing the door speakers is simple and can make a night and day difference with the correct doors. Replacing the dash speakers is a little more involved.

The front door speakers can take either a 6x9 or 6-1/2 or 6-3/4 speaker. You will need Metra 82-8146 Speaker Mounting Brackets for the 6x9 or Metra 82-8147 Bracket for the 6-1/2 and 6-3/4.

The back door speakers can take either a 6-1/2 or 6-3/4 and use Metra Bracket #82-8148.

All four doors use Metra Wiring harness #72-8104.

The dash speakers are a 3-1/2", but if you replace those you will have to modify the opening below to "cover" to get the new speakers to fit. Once you do and get the new speaker is in and put the original speaker cover back on, you wont be able to notice opening has been modified. No one makes an adapter for the dash speaker wiring so you will have to tap into those wires. The side of the OEM tweeter that has to capacitor is the positive wire.

As i understand it, the Base model does not come with dash speakers. Have no idea about if wiring is there or not.

The 8" OEM head unit with the right speakers really sounds good. All in all, makes a huge difference.
 
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#3 ·
You have to take the door panel off, but thats just a matter of two screws and popping the retaining tabs lose. Same with all four doors.

I got all of it from Crutchfields, The front doors I went with Rockford Fosgate R169x3 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R169X3/Rockford-Fosgate-R169X3.html?tp=91 and the back doors went with the R165x3 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R165X3/Rockford-Fosgate-R165X3.html?tp=78072

On the dash speakers I went with the Kicker 43DSC3504 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206DSC3504/Kicker-43DSC3504.html?tp=96.., but again, you have to modify the opening to get these to fit properly. Takes a little but the finished appearance looks factory.

I also put in a Kicker Sub https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20611HS8/Kicker-11HS8.html. I tapped into the dash speaker wires for the input on the sub.

All in all a great sounding system for a couple hundred dollars and about 4 hours of work.
 
#5 ·
When replacing speakers i also make it a point to add a few pieces of Butyl mat to the outside and inside doors skins and spray some Fluid Film at bottom of door to prevent rust.
 
#6 ·
I know nothing about car audio mods, so please bear with me. What is the reason for this? Because replacing the speaker introduces air moisture? Or the concern is dissimilar metal corrosion?
 
#10 · (Edited)
On older car changing the speaker usually resulted in needing to improve the amp as the speakers sounded terrible when cranked above 1/2 or so....most new cars have a decent amp and can support better speakers....but the engineers at harmon/kardon did a pretty decent job with the Ascent and i'm not touching mine. The speakers are matched well the stock AMP.

Also an amp is not all about ear bleeding sound....Speakers need to be matched to the correct sized amp or sound will be bland overall when low and when turned up high it will wash out.

This compact pioneer unit is nice as it can be tucked in under the dash and works well with mid level speakers. The stock amp on the Ascent might have more watts than this and if so probably already has decent speakers. Just because the speakers might have a paper cone doesn't mean they are terrible sounding. If anything i'm planning on adding a small sub to my Limited model.

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D1004
 
#12 ·
I gotta be honest... the Ascent has the nicest stock radio of any car I've had the ability to drive on a regular basis. I dont have the Rockford Fosgate upgrade... and I still can't believe how sweet it sounds when cranked up into the low 20s.

I'd love to hear how much better any sub-$500 upgrade (the cost of the Rockford Fosgate system) could make it sound!
 
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#13 ·
Agreed the stock speakers in the Premium sound pretty darn good. I am intrigued though by what the OP did. However I am no audiophile, and I can't even tell much difference between high end open back headphones. I might switch out those speakers for the heck of it because I am still in the midst of gear acquisition syndrome for my Ascent.
 
#15 ·
I had a Ford Explorer loaner for a few months (while Ford was waiting for parts for the Takata air bag replacement for my Fusion) and it must have had premium sound - it kicked hard and sounded very clean. I was all set to buy an Explorer afterwards, but after reading reviews ended up with the Ascent Premium with 8" LCD (not sure if that matters in terms of speaker upgrades). Never had a car with good audio in it, but after having the Explorer the Ascent's stock (non-premium) audio sounds like garbage.

The Subaru website shows that the Premium Sound is an option for the Premium edition car, but there wasn't a single dealer anywhere in my area that had that option available, so I bought it with the understanding (to my wife) that we would upgrade the sound in it.

I just want to clarify a few things. I'm comfortable wiring stuff up and have done some home stereo setups but never a car.
@pduncan
The "head unit" speakers you referred to, what are those exactly? Did you replace those?

Also did you have to run any new wires from the dash (audio or power wires for the sub, or larger gauge wires for the door or anything)?

You mentioned the base model not coming with dash speakers. As I understand it there's two speaker configurtations when purchasing the Ascent. Standard and premium. If you had dash speakers, does that mean you had the premium sound? Where would I look to see if I have dash speakers?

Since you clearly know much more about this than I do, and since it seems pretty affordable, I'm probably going to order this same configuration you mentioned.

Thank you!
 
#16 ·
I have a Premium without the Rockford upgrade. My plan is to install Focal K2 Power 165KRC 6.5" speakers in the front and a less expensive pair of Focals in the rear doors. I'm not sure what to do about the dash speakers. I need to find something that will match tonally.

The JL Audio FiX-86 OEM Integration DSP looks like it would work well to make all the necessary time delay and DSP adjustments, and override the awful factory equalization curve.
FiX-86 - Car Audio - Processors - OEM Integration - JL Audio

Of course I need a subwoofer. There's not much room in the back under the storage compartment cover. Someone posted that the JL 8" Microsub should fit, but to me it looks like you won't be able to close the storage box compartment cover all the way because the grill sits up too high. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-B0uBm0Nq4NT/p_13693133/JL-Audio-CP108LG-W3v3.html?XVINQ=DST&XVVER=G02&awcp=1t1&awcr=164108232702&awdv=c&awkw=&awmt=b&awnw=g&awug=9032515&gclid=Cj0KCQiA37HhBRC8ARIsAPWoO0xy22t1KMxMKOr6U9wQQ3JjgfKkgGA0SLRPf2cNuf7r0aY1nNs9lkUaAsD9EALw_wcB

Also with the microsub sitting under the closed storage compartment cover, I'm afraid the bass will sound muffled. I suppose I can drill holes in the cover and recover it with acoustic cloth but that's extra work.

Alternative I could just install a small Rockford Fosgate 10" or 12" sealed wedge enclosure that would sit on top of the compartment off to the passenger side. Using quick disconnects, I could easily remove the sub if I need the room to carry stuff. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R11X12/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R1-1X12.html

The final component would be a multi-channel amp that would sit under the storage compartment cover.
 
#19 · (Edited)
When replacing speakers and not using an external amp I've always used Polk speakers. One of the advantages is they have a high sensitivity rating which means they produce more sound with the same power (or the same sound with less power) which helps them on stock radio amps.

I too must be getting old though as this time I just paid for the Rockford Fosgate upgrade rather than saving $150 or so and doing it myself! I'm happy with the upgrade and the overall tones and balance sound pretty good. Bass isn't huge, but I haven't liked thumping bass since I was 18 (and built a custom 15" subwoofer box).
 
#20 ·
When replacing speakers and not using an external amp I've always used Polk speakers. One of the advantages is they have a high signal to noise rating (SN) which means they produce more sound with the same power (or the same sound with less power) which helps them on stock radio amps.

I too must be getting old though as this time I just paid for the Rockford Fosgate upgrade rather than saving $150 or so and doing it myself! I'm happy with the upgrade and the overall tones and balance sound pretty good. Bass isn't huge, but I haven't liked thumping bass since I was 18 (and built a custom 15" subwoofer box).
Geezer club checking in! I grew up in the era of Grunge, Gansta Rap, and Boy bands (as far as mainstream music is concerned). But I'm still considering installing a subwoofer.:devil:

You mean 'sensitivity', not S/N, but I know you know that. :grin:
 
#22 ·
Sensitivity is usually measured at a given resistance with a speaker driven by 1 watt at a certain frequency. It is expressed as the loudness of the speaker at that wattage, measured at a distance of 1 meter.

For instance, Polk speakers typically produce 93dB at 1 watt 1 meter.

Interestingly the Focals I bought perform similarly at 93dB at 1 watt 1 meter.

The more efficient a speaker is, the louder it can get with an equal amount of amplifier power.

Do we know what the listed resistance and overall efficiency is for our stock speakers?
 
#28 ·
BTW I Dynamatted my doors. There is no sensor in there. Go nuts. One area that really needs dynamat is the roof, but it looks like I'd have to take down the EyeSight to get access in there and that makes my wife too nervous that I might change it's calibration. On my old outback I pulled the dome lights and snuck strips up as far as I could reach and that helped a lot. But I noticed that the entire roof is undamped while i was doing the ceramic coating.
 

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#25 ·
Would you be willing to talk more about the modifications necessary to fit the 3.5" speaker in the dash? I opted to put a 1" tweeter up there to replace the factory tweeter and while it sounds amazing, I need more mid range vocals. I bought an infinity reference speaker but the magnet is too big. Otherwise the holes line up perfectly.
 
#26 ·
It might be easier to buy a different mid-range, one that fits. Sell or return the one you now have.

BTW how are you managing the crossover and time alignments of your speakers. Are you using a DSP or a passive crossover?

If you can squeeze a suitable mid-range into the dash position, you may be able to fabricate a pod for the tweeter that is attached to the A-pillar trim.
 
#29 ·
Look at PartsExpress for a speaker that will fit?

Also adding a midrange and running a 4 way system - the while system would probably sound a while lot better with an active crossover network and the timing of the sound from each driver adjusted properly through the use of a DSP.
 
#30 ·
I think the daytons with the neodymium magnets would fit OK, but then I'd still need a tweeter and I want the car to remain looking 100% bone stock

https://www.parts-express.com/dayto...num-cone-full-range-neo-driver-4-ohm--290-224

I really went bonkers with parts express drivers in my Outback with spectacular results. This tweeter (below) is really amazing. It's so detailed without being harsh at all. You can listen to fingers sliding on the guitar string and the singers inhale and it cuts through the road noise but at the same time you can take an entire road trip without feeling fatigued by it one bit. It just slides the highs directly into your brain. BTW I think 4-4.5K is a good crossover point for this tweeter. Also it would be a little difficult to mount in the Ascent.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-nd25fa-4-1-soft-dome-neodymium-tweeter--275-059
 

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#32 ·
Those tweeters look awesome. You don’t think they’d fit in the stock dash cutouts?
Not a chance. You'll have to make a bracket or cut up the factory tweeter to make a bracket as they are much smaller than the factory mount. Also the Outback dash tweeters I show in the photos are still much smaller than the Ascent mounting.

Do you run a capacitor with them? Problem with the stock non-HK system is it rolls off the highs and the lows.
Yes at 3KHz. That made the 3K a little strong so I'd suggest 4KHz to 4.5KHz really.
 
#33 ·
Has anybody noticed that the head unit has some pretty heavy bass blocking on the rear door speakers? I"ll have to measure it but I'd say the cut off is above 100 hz. There's no point in putting a speaker with good bass in this location. Focus on a good midrange/tweeter combo.
 
#36 ·
Not that I could find...



Not that I've found, and not in the diag screens. Hoping a future update brings at least more than a 3 band "equalizer", if not the ability to do more extensive tweaking.

If I find anything, or hear anything, I will be sure to share. Hoping everyone else does the same.
 
#38 · (Edited)
The attenuation is in the H/U,don’t see a way around it unless you go aftermarket.Tried the fade to the back to hear the difference once and just like my Outback how disappointing it is.At least it stages well :(

Maybe PAC will come out with a harness that would allow for aftermarket processing & amp intergration (fingers crossed).
 
#39 ·
The way around it is to use a DSP. The DSP will take the speaker level outs from the H/U and sum all the signals to give you a full range signal. It will then split the signals to left/right/front/back and so forth. You can take that line out signal and send it to your choice of amplifiers.

I'm going to use a Helix P Six DSP MK2 to perform this function. Yes, it's a lot more money, but it will allow me to obtain a full range signal, with control over frequency, crossover points, and timing. This particular unit has 6 channels of built in class D amplification. So it all happens in one compact unit.

https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/helix/amplifiers/p-six-dsp-mk2
 
#42 ·
I know this is slightly off topic, but I recently used this midrange in another build and I must say, the performance of this driver is truly extraordinary.

https://www.parts-express.com/peerl...04-4-1-2-aluminum-dome-woofer-4-ohm--264-1484

The stereo imaging, even in strange placements like car audio, is far better than even the most aggressive 3D software effect can simulate. The detail is tweeter like in its clarity. I'm hearing tiny sounds I never heard before and find myself asking questions like "is this room she's singing in 100 feet long?" "I wonder what brand of rosin the cellist used on his bow?" and "I think this trombonist might have chapped lips today." It gets all this without being harsh at all.

Note the height on the dome so it doesn't hit the grille. They come in different sizes too.
 
#43 ·
For those who have the Base or Premium model, and want to improved the sound quality without laying down $500 for the Rockford-Fosgate "Upgrade", replacing the door speakers is simple and can make a night and day difference with the correct doors. Replacing the dash speakers is a little more involved.

The front door speakers can take either a 6x9 or 6-1/2 or 6-3/4 speaker. You will need Metra 82-8146 Speaker Mounting Brackets for the 6x9 or Metra 82-8147 Bracket for the 6-1/2 and 6-3/4.

The back door speakers can take either a 6-1/2 or 6-3/4 and use Metra Bracket #82-8148.

All four doors use Metra Wiring harness #72-8104.

The dash speakers are a 3-1/2", but if you replace those you will have to modify the opening below to "cover" to get the new speakers to fit. Once you do and get the new speaker is in and put the original speaker cover back on, you wont be able to notice opening has been modified. No one makes an adapter for the dash speaker wiring so you will have to tap into those wires. The side of the OEM tweeter that has to capacitor is the positive wire.

As i understand it, the Base model does not come with dash speakers. Have no idea about if wiring is there or not.

The 8" OEM head unit with the right speakers really sounds good. All in all, makes a huge difference.
I’m trying to decide if I need to add an aftermarket amplifier or not and I can’t find the RMS output for the 2020 OEM Subaru Ascent Amplifier anywhere. I’m planning on adding 2 6x9 Kicker KS Series 3-way speakers (RMS of 150 W) to the front and 2 6.5 Kicker KS series to the rear. The shop told me I don’t need a more power amplifier unless I end up adding a sub. Is this true? Will the stock amp have enough power for these speakers?
 
#44 ·
I doubt the RMS is published anywhere... If you have the Harmon Kardon speakers then you have the matched headunit-amplifier and you are pretty much stuck with the stereo you have. Your only real option is just to swap out the speakers. But in those systems, the amp is designed to output low mid and bass only to the front door speakers. The rest of the soundscape go to the tweeters and center speaker. The rear door speakers are full frequency. There are vital system controls integrated into the head unit so you can not simply replace the head units.

If you do not have the Harmon Kardon speakers, you can add an aftermarket amp to that using the line level on the new amp from the the speaker outputs of the head unit. It's not the idea situation but crutchfields sell equipment that will clean up the signal and make it clean if that's what you want. You wont find a preamp output on any aftermarket stereo.
 
#47 ·
I'm looking to add a set of components up front (probably Alpine R series 6.5). Has anyone run new wiring up to the dash tweeters? Is this feasible? What about wiring into the doors? I'd like to keep the crossovers accessible vs inside the door.

Also, any experiences here with a small powered sub under the seat? Thinking about this one:
 
#48 ·
Also, any experiences here with a small powered sub under the seat? Thinking about this one:
I am pretty sure that there's not much/enough space. Amp under the passenger seat. Computer/control system under the driver's seat. No room under row 2 or 3 for one that size.
 
#51 ·
Anyone try custom fitting 6x9 to rear doors?

I'm itching to begin my audio upgrade on my Onyx and am seriously considering having a shop mount 6x9 Kappas all the way around, I know it's gonna take a little cutting and finessing but may be worth the extra work?? CRY once and leave it forever, or until I retire her???
Automotive parking light Automotive tail & brake light Vehicle registration plate Hood Automotive lighting

Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Tire Automotive tire


Will do two x 3.5" 2-ways up front.
Vertebrate Automotive lighting Automotive design Motor vehicle Automotive exterior


Only looking at installing 2, the Touring has 3 with HK upgrade, I believe. Don't know what kind of wiring logistical nightmare that would create, so I'll pass until someone tests that out.
Head Shoe Automotive lighting Hood Automotive design


I was told you want 2-ways and not mids for up-front by Crutchfield although they show 2.5" mids as an option???

Another one of my Kooky ideas is to custom mount another set of the 3.5's in the rear where the Touring would normally have the extra 2.5" mids.
Head Vehicle Tire Eye Wheel

Let me know your guidance guys, TIA.

Of course which amps and where everything is powered will be another chapter in this install wishlist, but that's expected. Thinking I would power the doors with 4-way amp and the 3.5's off the head unit since they really don't have much draw. Looking at Infiniti/JBL for that piece. Also using Clarion EQ thru an LC2iPRO LOC.

If I pull all this off I will never be switching cars... :love:
Dynamat and Subs are still TDB (rant over, Thanx for dealing with me and my aspirations, LOL
 
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