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Geezer club checking in! I grew up in the era of Grunge, Gansta Rap, and Boy bands (as far as mainstream music is concerned). But I'm still considering installing a subwoofer.:devil:

You mean 'sensitivity', not S/N, but I know you know that. :grin:
Arrghh! Yes of course.... should not post on 2 hours sleep!

I have a night vision device I use for astronomy and one of the key stats for it is the S/N ratio, so that was on my brain!
 
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Sensitivity is usually measured at a given resistance with a speaker driven by 1 watt at a certain frequency. It is expressed as the loudness of the speaker at that wattage, measured at a distance of 1 meter.

For instance, Polk speakers typically produce 93dB at 1 watt 1 meter.

Interestingly the Focals I bought perform similarly at 93dB at 1 watt 1 meter.

The more efficient a speaker is, the louder it can get with an equal amount of amplifier power.

Do we know what the listed resistance and overall efficiency is for our stock speakers?
 

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Do you need to remove speaker then put mat into doors ? or remove the panel of door ? Thank you
I removed the panel and it wasn't hard at all. When peeling back the plastic sheet from the door skin use a razor blade to score the black butyl so it pulls away easy and can be reused.
 

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Would you be willing to talk more about the modifications necessary to fit the 3.5" speaker in the dash? I opted to put a 1" tweeter up there to replace the factory tweeter and while it sounds amazing, I need more mid range vocals. I bought an infinity reference speaker but the magnet is too big. Otherwise the holes line up perfectly.
 

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Would you be willing to talk more about the modifications necessary to fit the 3.5" speaker in the dash? I opted to put a 1" tweeter up there to replace the factory tweeter and while it sounds amazing, I need more mid range vocals. I bought an infinity reference speaker but the magnet is too big. Otherwise the holes line up perfectly.
It might be easier to buy a different mid-range, one that fits. Sell or return the one you now have.

BTW how are you managing the crossover and time alignments of your speakers. Are you using a DSP or a passive crossover?

If you can squeeze a suitable mid-range into the dash position, you may be able to fabricate a pod for the tweeter that is attached to the A-pillar trim.
 

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It might be easier to buy a different mid-range, one that fits. Sell or return the one you now have.
Based on the other 3.5" speakers I've seen, anything I'm willing to buy is going to have the same problem. The kicker used by the OP has a magnet every bit as large as the infinity. I was going to return it but we seem to have misplaced the receipt and I bought it at Fry's not online.

BTW how are you managing the crossover and time alignments of your speakers. Are you using a DSP or a passive crossover?
I'm not worrying about it. I have a low pass inductor on the 6x9 woofer and a high pass capacitor on the tweeter. Crossover point is 3.3KHz with a 6db slope.

If you can squeeze a suitable mid-range into the dash position, you may be able to fabricate a pod for the tweeter that is attached to the A-pillar trim.
If I put the infinity speaker in there, I'll put a high pass filter probably around 100 hz and let it use it's built in tweeter. Right now I have the midrange control boosted by 2, so I expect if I added the midrange, I could turn it back to 0 and still get the modest vocal range boost I'm expecting.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-EgLSwIOYqwM/p_108R3032CX/Infinity-Reference-REF-3032cfx.html
 

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If I were to Dynamat the door, is there a concern about covering up any side impact sensors?
BTW I Dynamatted my doors. There is no sensor in there. Go nuts. One area that really needs dynamat is the roof, but it looks like I'd have to take down the EyeSight to get access in there and that makes my wife too nervous that I might change it's calibration. On my old outback I pulled the dome lights and snuck strips up as far as I could reach and that helped a lot. But I noticed that the entire roof is undamped while i was doing the ceramic coating.
 

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Look at PartsExpress for a speaker that will fit?

Also adding a midrange and running a 4 way system - the while system would probably sound a while lot better with an active crossover network and the timing of the sound from each driver adjusted properly through the use of a DSP.
 

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I think the daytons with the neodymium magnets would fit OK, but then I'd still need a tweeter and I want the car to remain looking 100% bone stock

https://www.parts-express.com/dayto...num-cone-full-range-neo-driver-4-ohm--290-224

I really went bonkers with parts express drivers in my Outback with spectacular results. This tweeter (below) is really amazing. It's so detailed without being harsh at all. You can listen to fingers sliding on the guitar string and the singers inhale and it cuts through the road noise but at the same time you can take an entire road trip without feeling fatigued by it one bit. It just slides the highs directly into your brain. BTW I think 4-4.5K is a good crossover point for this tweeter. Also it would be a little difficult to mount in the Ascent.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-nd25fa-4-1-soft-dome-neodymium-tweeter--275-059
 

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Those tweeters look awesome. You don’t think they’d fit in the stock dash cutouts?

Do you run a capacitor with them? Problem with the stock non-HK system is it rolls off the highs and the lows.
 

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Those tweeters look awesome. You don’t think they’d fit in the stock dash cutouts?
Not a chance. You'll have to make a bracket or cut up the factory tweeter to make a bracket as they are much smaller than the factory mount. Also the Outback dash tweeters I show in the photos are still much smaller than the Ascent mounting.

Do you run a capacitor with them? Problem with the stock non-HK system is it rolls off the highs and the lows.
Yes at 3KHz. That made the 3K a little strong so I'd suggest 4KHz to 4.5KHz really.
 

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Has anybody noticed that the head unit has some pretty heavy bass blocking on the rear door speakers? I"ll have to measure it but I'd say the cut off is above 100 hz. There's no point in putting a speaker with good bass in this location. Focus on a good midrange/tweeter combo.
 

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I seem to recall someone posted a response curve showing how much the rear channels are attenuated on both the upper and lower ends.

Also there are more than a few folks who believe in eliminating the rear channels to improve the front soundstaging.
 

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In my case having the rear functional helps with the vocals a lot since the Pioneer TS-A 6x9 components are a little weak in this area.

I wonder if there is a hidden menu in the radio that would let me tweak the rear channel EQ?
 

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Not that I could find...

In my case having the rear functional helps with the vocals a lot since the Pioneer TS-A 6x9 components are a little weak in this area.

I wonder if there is a hidden menu in the radio that would let me tweak the rear channel EQ?
Not that I've found, and not in the diag screens. Hoping a future update brings at least more than a 3 band "equalizer", if not the ability to do more extensive tweaking.

If I find anything, or hear anything, I will be sure to share. Hoping everyone else does the same.
 

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The attenuation is in the H/U,don’t see a way around it unless you go aftermarket.Tried the fade to the back to hear the difference once and just like my Outback how disappointing it is.At least it stages well :(

Maybe PAC will come out with a harness that would allow for aftermarket processing & amp intergration (fingers crossed).
 

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The attenuation is in the H/U,don’t see a way around it unless you go aftermarket.Tried the fade to the back to hear the difference once and just like my Outback how disappointing it is.At least it stages well :(

Maybe PAC will come out with a harness that would allow for aftermarket processing & amp intergration (fingers crossed).
The way around it is to use a DSP. The DSP will take the speaker level outs from the H/U and sum all the signals to give you a full range signal. It will then split the signals to left/right/front/back and so forth. You can take that line out signal and send it to your choice of amplifiers.

I'm going to use a Helix P Six DSP MK2 to perform this function. Yes, it's a lot more money, but it will allow me to obtain a full range signal, with control over frequency, crossover points, and timing. This particular unit has 6 channels of built in class D amplification. So it all happens in one compact unit.

https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/helix/amplifiers/p-six-dsp-mk2
 

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The way around it is to use a DSP. The DSP will take the speaker level outs from the H/U and sum all the signals to give you a full range signal. It will then split the signals to left/right/front/back and so forth. You can take that line out signal and send it to your choice of amplifiers.

I'm going to use a Helix P Six DSP MK2 to perform this function. Yes, it's a lot more money, but it will allow me to obtain a full range signal, with control over frequency, crossover points, and timing. This particular unit has 6 channels of built in class D amplification. So it all happens in one compact unit.

https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/helix/amplifiers/p-six-dsp-mk2
All in one ,small chassis can’t beat that and power to boot.Keep us updated with the install.
 
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