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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I always torque my oil plug to 33 ft-lbs with a new gasket. I went to change my oil and the drain plug was very tight. Went with a half in socket and longer breaker bar and the hex rounded off. Hammered the socket back on and got it loose.

New drain plug is expensive at the local dealer.

I changed the oil on my daughter’s Forester and noticed the drain plug is starting to round just a little.

I ordered spares from Subarupartsonline - good price.

I am glad the drain plug is a softer material than the pan threads are made from but it is rather soft for wrenching.

Has anyone else seen this?

On the Forester forums they seem to get a different Subaru drain plug with a 17mm hex. Part number 807016210. Will this work for the Ascent?
 

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On the Forester forums they seem to get a different Subaru drain plug with a 17mm hex. Part number 807016210. Will this work for the Ascent?
If you going to put in a aftermarket part anyway, why don't you put on a fumato valve? You don't have to purchase washers, risk rounded or over torqued plugs. Oil changes are a breeze.
 

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The part number is a Subaru oil drain plug with a larger hex.

Used a 6 point socket.

I like things simple and don’t think I want the Fumato valve.
It honestly doesn't get much simpler than opening a small valve to drain the oil rather than removing the drain plug with a wrench and having to replace a gasket. I've had a fumoto valve on my legacy for like 6 years now, no issues with it.
 

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The part number is a Subaru oil drain plug with a larger hex.

Used a 6 point socket.

I like things simple and don’t think I want the Fumato valve.
What others said. It can't get simpler than Fumato. It is cheap. Try it. If you don't like it, you can always go back. There are horror stories all over the forum with inexperienced mechanics draining CVT. I do oil changes myself. I tow a trailer and if I HAVE to get oil done on the road at a shop, I tell them there is a valve and if they have to use a wrench, they are doing something wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I appreciate the votes for a valve. Again I do not wish to have a valve in a critical service such as this. If it fails or leaks and is not caught it can cost an engine. It is a personal choice. I am guessing most folks around here must use the valve but it is not for me. I have worked with too many valves in my life to trust them as much as others do. From reading about it in this forum Fumoto probably makes a good valve but it is not for me.

I was mainly wondering if anyone has had the same experience as me. It seems to be rather common on other Subarus any many of you owned other Subarus before.

I was also wondering if the other Subaru drain plug would be a better choice.

Thanks.
 

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I appreciate the votes for a valve. Again I do not wish to have a valve in a critical service such as this. If it fails or leaks and is not caught it can cost an engine. It is a personal choice. I am guessing most folks around here must use the valve but it is not for me. I have worked with too many valves in my life to trust them as much as others do. From reading about it in this forum Fumoto probably makes a good valve but it is not for me.

I was mainly wondering if anyone has had the same experience as me. It seems to be rather common on other Subarus any many of you owned other Subarus before.

I was also wondering if the other Subaru drain plug would be a better choice.

Thanks.
I had five Subaru's and never encounter this problem.... on 98 outback and two 06 Tribeca's i changed the oil for 6-7 years regularly before I switched for fumoto and no problem ,2020 ascent three times before fumoto (and totaling it right after that),, 2021 ascent just finished mine first oil change no Fumoto (ordered wrong one by mistake)and no problem .Will install fumoto at next oil change .
 

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So far three changes on my Ascent and two on my wife's '19 WRX, no issues.

I'm typically at 6 changes over a 3-year/36K term, with the wife and I having two Subarus at the same time (the Ascent is our eighth, and her '19 WRX makes for nine). I was on a more aggressive schedule with my '05 LGT - which I owned for 7 years and probably did 8 oil-changes before switching to a Fumoto valve - again no issues (with either).

I've honesty never had to take remedial measures with the drain plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I would like your father in-law. I am guessing he has taken apart many car doors to fix them like I have done or at least seen as many failures. I am old enough to have lived through the 70s and 80s and back then he was absolutely right. I find it amazing how much more reliable cars have become.

The Fumoto fan club is strong here. I actually did my homework on the valve and decided it is not for me. I am happy for all the folks using it but I will

The support aspect is why I started this thread in the first place. I figured if it happened to me it may have or could happen to others.
 

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I’ve never had a drain plug round off before. How snug is the socket/wrench on it?

With a snug wrench I’d still be more worried about the pan threads. Back in the mid 2000’s I had a Mazda that I took to the dealer for service. One of the reasons I do my own maintenance now is because they stripped my oil drain plug. They insisted a helicoil was a good fix but since they had been the only ones to ever change the oil I pushed for a new oil pan. After that I never went back there. Disclaimer: I use a fumoto so I haven’t had a wrench on it for an oil change for a long time.
 

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Out of all 4 of the Subarus I have owned and serviced, the only issues I have had were on the newer 14mm drain plug vs the older style 17mm plugs. However, I haven't really had any major issues with those either.

On our 2014 Forester XT, I had an instance where I had the dealership perform an oil change during a service and the plug was clearly over tightened. On the next oil change, I did begin to deform the hex of the drain plug slightly in order to loosen the apparently over torqued plug. The damage was not severe enough to require replacement of the drain plug.

The only other times where I have had any concerns were initial oil changes after the factory fill on new vehicles, due to increased force needed to break the bond of the factory painting process on the drain plug / oil pan.
 
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I think that is what worries me - I read 1/2 socket and a breaker bar and using leg muscles to overcome. I’m a long time shade tree mechanic so I know I can overcome nearly any issue ever encountered (mechanically).

I too will not be doing the fumoto and have opted for a magnetic plug - also use 8mm neodymiumin the filter.
 
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I think that is what worries me - I read 1/2 socket and a breaker bar and using leg muscles to overcome. I’m a long time shade tree mechanic so I know I can overcome nearly any issue ever encountered (mechanically).
I haven't looked at the Ascent's oil pan but typically pans are sheet metal with a welded in thread for the drain plug. I wouldn't apply static torque with a breaker bar and leg muscles to a drain plug for fear of deforming the oil pan. I'd personally give the plug a quick trigger tap with my 12 volt inch/pound impact driver to loosen it. A couple of taps dynamic force using a tight 6 point socket should be more than enough and not harm the plug or the pan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I
I too will not be doing the fumoto and have opted for a magnetic plug - also use 8mm neodymiumin the filter.
Which magnetic drain plug are you going to use. I have also thought about them. The ones I have seen so far are aluminum with the super magnet inserted and I am not sure if aluminum is good or bad for a drain plug. I guess with a larger hex it would lower the shear forces acting on it from the socket and be OK.
 
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