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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought my 2020 Ascent 2 weeks ago from a local dealer with about 3,000 miles on it. It had been on their “ loaner” program. Today I heard beeping coming from the liftgate area and noticed it would not open with the button then I realized the car was dead. I called the dealer (Friday night) service dept. was closed but a salesman suggesting that if my key fob was in or near the car it probably ran the battery down. Guilty. My fob was in the console. So I put a trickle changer on the battery and all seemed fine ( lights came on etc) until I tried to start it. It was not ready. So I put the charger back on but turned it off because of so many mechanical noises in the motor area. Sounds like relays clicking, compressor noise etc. I’ve tried it several times With the same result. I’m nervous about leaving it charging. Ideas?
 

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If the noises are making you nervous, you could just disconnect the ground lead on the battery and connect your trickle charger ground side directly to the battery without it sending current to the car. When the battery has charged overnight, then disconnect the trickle charger and reconnect the ground from the car to the battery.

I am only suggesting the ground wire side because it is simpler to pull off. If it really bothers you, pull both from the car off the battery.

Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If the noises are making you nervous, you could just disconnect the ground lead on the battery and connect your trickle charger ground side directly to the battery without it sending current to the car. When the battery has charged overnight, then disconnect the trickle charger and reconnect the ground from the car to the battery.

I am only suggesting the ground wire side because it is simpler to pull off. If it really bothers you, pull both from the car off the battery.

Just a thought.
Sounds like a great idea. Thank you. I didn’t even think about doing that. I’m still really surprised that could run my battery down. It had just been two days since I drove the car.
 

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Sounds like a great idea. Thank you. I didn’t even think about doing that. I’m still really surprised that could run my battery down. It had just been two days since I drove the car.
You're just finding out what most everyone else here already knows, the OEM battery has a very poor reserve capacity and often will discharge whenever you place a load on it that most other batteries would endure.

If this continues to happen, and it probably will, I highly recommend replacing this battery. There are many threads about this in this forum.
 

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I ran down my battery by having a rear dome light left on. They turn on/off by pushing on them and there's no indication of whether they're on or off. You need to close the doors and wait for the lights to go out to see if any stay on.

The TG causes excessive drain (4+ Amp) when open because it keeps a number of systems awake. Many have run down their batteries by leaving it open, or finding it open.

And as pro10is mentions, the factory batteries are not the best.

There should be no problem just putting your charger on the battery and allowing it to charge. As the voltage comes up, systems will automatically initialize.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You're just finding out what most everyone else here already knows, the OEM battery has a very poor reserve capacity and often will discharge whenever you place a load on it that most other batteries would endure.

If this continues to happen, and it probably will, I highly recommend replacing this battery. There are many threads about this in this forum.
Thank you. I charged the battery for about 8 hrs at 2 amps but car would not start so I then jumped it with a 2002 Toyota and after hitting the start button repeatedly it started. I drove it to the Dealership ( 60 miles) and they said the battery was bad and they swapped it out (OEM) for a battery that says Subaru all over it. Fingers crossed..
 

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Thank you. I charged the battery for about 8 hrs at 2 amps but car would not start so I then jumped it with a 2002 Toyota and after hitting the start button repeatedly it started. I drove it to the Dealership ( 60 miles) and they said the battery was bad and they swapped it out (OEM) for a battery that says Subaru all over it. Fingers crossed..
if you read the battery problem thread you will see the suggested batteries (not OEM or subaru) that will not give you headaches. They cost much more but Subaru was willing to foot the bill for the more expensive replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
if you read the battery problem thread you will see the suggested batteries (not OEM or subaru) that will not give you headaches. They cost much more but Subaru was willing to foot the bill for the more expensive replacement.
Thank you for that information. I will read the thread and learn.
 

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First thing I did after purchasing my new 2020 Ascent was replace the OEM battery with an Optima Yellowtop 35 after reading all the horror stories of people getting the OEM battery replaced 3 or 4 times.

My wife is getting ready to take a 2000 mile road trip and I didn't want her sitting at a rest stop waiting a tow truck to jump the battery to get her back on the road.

Jeff
 

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First thing I did after purchasing my new 2020 Ascent was replace the OEM battery with an Optima Yellowtop 35 after reading all the horror stories of people getting the OEM battery replaced 3 or 4 times.

My wife is getting ready to take a 2000 mile road trip and I didn't want her sitting at a rest stop waiting a tow truck to jump the battery to get her back on the road.

Jeff
Your premium Optima battery should serve you well but it's not necessary to purchase such an expensive battery to resolve the issue with the Ascent. Here are some ratings of Group 35 batteries from CR. The EverStart MAXX-35N (North) from Walmart is under $100 and tested nearly as well as the Odyssey Extreme Series 35-PC1400T which is over three times the price. So, no need to spend a lot to replace the Subaru OEM and resolve the problem.

4606

4607
 

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So to clarify for me. Are you recommending I replace the New Subaru battery I got Saturday from the dealership soon by one of these better ones?
probably not at this point. I wish you had known they would pay for these better batteries prior to the new one being installed. If this one gives you any trouble, certainly replace it with one of these and have Subaru cover the costs as long as it is in the warranty period. If you have money maing a hole in your wallet, you can replace it and install the Subaru battery in a vehicle it will fit and that does not use so much power when the engine is not on.
 

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Yeah. I wanted a good battery for my boat so got an Optima marine battery. It took three tries before I got a good one. No fun being dead in the water a few miles offshore. Good thing I could pull start my 90 hp Evinrude...which is kind of amazing considering it's direct injection. With one revolution of the crankshaft enough juice is generated to power the injectors and spark. You used to be able to bump start cars. I don't think that's possible anymore.
 

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Ok. I know this might be controversial, but I have to ask.

If SOA is footing the bill for a battery replacement, why are folks asking for the $90 battery instead of the $305 one? I realize it is a really good deal based on ratings, but one is an AGM and one is a lead acid, no? Also, and this is my real point, it seems that one way to get the attention of the "beancounters" (the dealer's word for why they skimp) at SOA would be to escalate the cost of these design flaws (both the underpowered battery and the lift gate issue) via a large increase of aftermarket battery replacements.

Thoughts?
 

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Subaru is under no obligation to approve paying for a third party battery, and such approval is on a case by case basis. So, no one should assume they're going to pay for any aftermarket battery unless they've gotten that in writing first.

Also, AGM is lead acid. It's just a different type of plate used than standard batteries.

The battery isn't underpowered, but, apparently, people have been experiencing different results in quality and/or performance from the same Johnson Controls battery model. JC recently became Clarios. They make a ridiculous amount of OEM and aftermarket batteries under numerous names, including Wal-Mart, Sears, Toyota, BMW. Continental, OPTIMA, Heliar, LTH, Delkor and numerous others.

As for the liftgate, whoever designed the controllers apparently didn't consider the need to leave them open half the day or longer. Because the controller features safety features in it (eg: not crushing you if you happen to be between it and the car), and interfaces with the ECU so the car knows it's open or not, I suspect they've got a lot of work cut out to make it still provide those functions yet not drain the battery for those who do all day/night camping, or other activities that require the liftgate to be open all day.

Ok. I know this might be controversial, but I have to ask.

If SOA is footing the bill for a battery replacement, why are folks asking for the $90 battery instead of the $305 one? I realize it is a really good deal based on ratings, but one is an AGM and one is a lead acid, no? Also, and this is my real point, it seems that one way to get the attention of the "beancounters" (the dealer's word for why they skimp) at SOA would be to escalate the cost of these design flaws (both the underpowered battery and the lift gate issue) via a large increase of aftermarket battery replacements.

Thoughts?
 

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Subaru is under no obligation to approve paying for a third party battery, and such approval is on a case by case basis. So, no one should assume they're going to pay for any aftermarket battery unless they've gotten that in writing first.

Also, AGM is lead acid. It's just a different type of plate used than standard batteries.

The battery isn't underpowered, but, apparently, people have been experiencing different results in quality and/or performance from the same Johnson Controls battery model. JC recently became Clarios. They make a ridiculous amount of OEM and aftermarket batteries under numerous names, including Wal-Mart, Sears, Toyota, BMW. Continental, OPTIMA, Heliar, LTH, Delkor and numerous others.

As for the liftgate, whoever designed the controllers apparently didn't consider the need to leave them open half the day or longer. Because the controller features safety features in it (eg: not crushing you if you happen to be between it and the car), and interfaces with the ECU so the car knows it's open or not, I suspect they've got a lot of work cut out to make it still provide those functions yet not drain the battery for those who do all day/night camping, or other activities that require the liftgate to be open all day.
Okay. Fair points all of them. I was just curious because it seemed like there was a mention of "up to $300" in some of the posts, and this post seems to be the slightly definitive "ask for the EverStart" post.
 

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Okay. Fair points all of them. I was just curious because it seemed like there was a mention of "up to $300" in some of the posts, and this post seems to be the slightly definitive "ask for the EverStart" post.
I think that's mentioned because the value of the batteries Subaru has, on a case by case basis, agreed to pay for have been up to $300. But I do know some people have been told no. I don't know what the criteria is. 😕
 

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Ok. Now that I have my car back, I can do some more noodling about this.

The OEM batter is SOA821B200 PPB001721. It has 550 CCA and 100RC.
100RC means that it can sustain 25A for 100 minutes.

SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) specifies the capacity of a starter battery by Reserve Capacity (RC). RC reflects the runtime in minutes at a steady discharge of 25A
Source: BU-904: How to Measure Capacity – Battery University
Using the two formula's listed on battery university, this translates to somewhere between 52 and 66 Ah.

I cannot for the life of me find the RC or aH rating for the Everstart MAXX 35N.

Does anyone know it?

FWIW, the only mention I've found on the internet was Anandtech and list it as the same as the Subaru OEM batter of 100 min (or 100RC) [ but it also seems to have the CCA wrong? 640 vs 550? ]

So.... If the RC is the same in the OEM to the EverStart Maxx 35N (i.e. both potentially being 100RC) -- the only thing we might be gaining by swapping out is more CCA - which doesn't help with "all these newfangled electronics" as my dealer calls them.

What am I missing? (Besides the fact that batteries are all different little snowflakes because of chemistry - I'm just trying to compare ideal specs here.)
 
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