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was unsure about how to get the sound system to read my hi-capacity 256gb flash drive (8" h/k in limited ascent), as it would not load files previously. the drive would only allow an exfat or ntfs file system. the manual says you must use a fat 16/32 file system. NOT TRUE. i formatted my drive, changed to ntfs file system, and re-loaded my music files (30k+ music tracks). fat 16/32 file system does not allow for large capacity file storage; ex fat or ntfs must be used on the drive. following the change and file re-load, when plugging in the drive it was read immediately by the system and worked better than hoped. all features are available: artist, album, songs, genre, etc. except for playlists. haven't figured that one out yet. my playlists did not transfer from my itunes files, but that's ok; i usually listen by genre. the only glitch i found is that the system reads the id3 tags for individual tracks, and displays a lot of extra info not needed.


some posters have wondered about which app to use to modify their music tracks. i have tried many of them, but found jaikoz (paid program) to be the most powerful; followed by it's brother song kong (also paid, but both worth the $ imo). i washed all my itunes track though jaikoz to i.d. and clean up the files; then edited everything down to how i wanted it to appear when read. also, these two programs work on most all music file formats.

i kept my folder layers to a minimum by copying the contents of just the music folder to my drive (itunes/itunes media/music). this brings over all needed additional files, metadata, artwork, etc.

i also found that when leaving the drive plugged in to the port, the system will come right back to the media setting, and to the exact point where the track being played last was stopped. this occurred when doing a power-off with the volume knob or when shutting down the vehicle and then starting again. it did not jump to the radio at all upon re-start.
you can shuffle the entire catalog, or choose a genre, album, artist, etc.; and shuffle within that particular list.


this may be old news or repetitive to some readers, but i hope it helps someone. thanks for your time.
 

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I find it strange that when you turn off the car it shuts off the usb inputs. But when the car is off and you hit the starter button once the usb inputs turn on. Essentially they should be the same state of operation. So why is it off when the car turns off? Question, does anyone know if the usb power is lowered before the usb module? Or is it lowered by the module itself. I was thinking that if the module lowers the current, then you could switch power inputs or splice into the headunit power line to keep the usb going. That way the usb shits off st the same time as the headunit. It’s annoying that the usb shuts off before the head unit.
 

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I find it strange that when you turn off the car it shuts off the usb inputs. But when the car is off and you hit the starter button once the usb inputs turn on. Essentially they should be the same state of operation. So why is it off when the car turns off? Question, does anyone know if the usb power is lowered before the usb module? Or is it lowered by the module itself. I was thinking that if the module lowers the current, then you could switch power inputs or splice into the headunit power line to keep the usb going. That way the usb shits off st the same time as the headunit. It’s annoying that the usb shuts off before the head unit.
It's possible the USB power is delivered via a separate circuit for fusing protection in case one of the USB ports shorts or creates an over-current situation so you don't damage the head unit, and that this power source is only available when the engine is on or the key is in accessory mode.

It probably also serves as battery drain protection, so that USB devices that draw power don't drain the battery. This might be because the head unit itself doesn't really turn "off", it just goes into some kind of sleep mode and driving the USB ports off the head unit would otherwise leave them powered and/or require more complex power management logic by the head unit.

I'm kind of inclined to lean to the former, though, since with a bunch of high current USB ports it would be sort of risky to rely on the head unit power bus to deliver power to all the USB ports. I'd rather blow a $2 fuse than zap the head unit with a bad USB device/cable.

That being said, the "solution" might be a USB adapter that just passed through the data lines to the car's USB port, but delivered power to the power lines via an inline rechargeable battery. When the ports powered off, your device would get power from the inline rechargeable battery. Sort of like an uninterruptible power supply.
 

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If it is the case for current protection, then why do they turn on when you hit the acc button once? That would indicate that they have two separate power lines going to them. That wouldn’t make any sense and I doubt a manufacturer would go to the trouble of running two lines. Just look at the front headlight, dry, high beam and fog light setup. Every piece runs together on the same circuit in some way. I’m sure Subaru designed the usb to function I similar fashion. We just have to figure out wheat they run in conjunction.
 

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I find it strange that when you turn off the car it shuts off the usb inputs. But when the car is off and you hit the starter button once the usb inputs turn on. Essentially they should be the same state of operation. So why is it off when the car turns off? Question, does anyone know if the usb power is lowered before the usb module? Or is it lowered by the module itself. I was thinking that if the module lowers the current, then you could switch power inputs or splice into the headunit power line to keep the usb going. That way the usb shits off st the same time as the headunit. It’s annoying that the usb shuts off before the head unit.
That's a problem that needs to be reported (email to them [email protected],
[email protected]). The headunit (ie radio), the media you were listening to, must be retained w/ power after the engine is off (ie Retained Accessory Power). The USB outlet is an accessory to the headunit and therefore must retained also.

It's likely that physical solution must be implemented instead of software. If so, we're all out of luck, I imagine. If you're eager to get it aligned/fixed, go to an mobile security/alarm shop and they can find a solution for you easily.
 

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If it is the case for current protection, then why do they turn on when you hit the acc button once? That would indicate that they have two separate power lines going to them. That wouldn’t make any sense and I doubt a manufacturer would go to the trouble of running two lines. Just look at the front headlight, dry, high beam and fog light setup. Every piece runs together on the same circuit in some way. I’m sure Subaru designed the usb to function I similar fashion. We just have to figure out wheat they run in conjunction.
My guess is that the accessory button throws a relay that delivers power from the battery to things normally powered by the alternator.
 

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The one-line wiring diagram in the tech manual should indicate how this is wired and what relay devices exists for that run.
 

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was unsure about how to get the sound system to read my hi-capacity 256gb flash drive (8" h/k in limited ascent), as it would not load files previously. the drive would only allow an exfat or ntfs file system. the manual says you must use a fat 16/32 file system. NOT TRUE. i formatted my drive, changed to ntfs file system, and re-loaded my music files (30k+ music tracks). fat 16/32 file system does not allow for large capacity file storage; ex fat or ntfs must be used on the drive. following the change and file re-load, when plugging in the drive it was read immediately by the system and worked better than hoped. all features are available: artist, album, songs, genre, etc. except for playlists. haven't figured that one out yet. my playlists did not transfer from my itunes files, but that's ok; i usually listen by genre. the only glitch i found is that the system reads the id3 tags for individual tracks, and displays a lot of extra info not needed.


some posters have wondered about which app to use to modify their music tracks. i have tried many of them, but found jaikoz (paid program) to be the most powerful; followed by it's brother song kong (also paid, but both worth the $ imo). i washed all my itunes track though jaikoz to i.d. and clean up the files; then edited everything down to how i wanted it to appear when read. also, these two programs work on most all music file formats.

i kept my folder layers to a minimum by copying the contents of just the music folder to my drive (itunes/itunes media/music). this brings over all needed additional files, metadata, artwork, etc.

i also found that when leaving the drive plugged in to the port, the system will come right back to the media setting, and to the exact point where the track being played last was stopped. this occurred when doing a power-off with the volume knob or when shutting down the vehicle and then starting again. it did not jump to the radio at all upon re-start.
you can shuffle the entire catalog, or choose a genre, album, artist, etc.; and shuffle within that particular list.



this may be old news or repetitive to some readers, but i hope it helps someone. thanks for your time.
Full disclosure: I am a modestly accomplished end-user, but definitely not high-tech guy, so I have no idea how to program, how to use Linux, or anything like that. Had a similar--maybe not exact--problem w/Subaru OB 2018 & Ascent 2019 audio systems, compounded mainly by fact that ~1/3 of the selections I wanted to load on the USB Flash drive had been copied to my PC from a specific artist's actual CDs that I had purchased years ago. I was able to sort all other songs--at least once I had converted them to MP3-- that I had downloaded from youtube simply by assigning an abbreviated name to each artist and changing each song title so it began w/my abbreviation of that artist's name, then adding sequential alphabetic "markers" immediately after that name so the first track I wanted played from the artist was re-titled "[artist name abbreviation]AA[Actual Song Title Assigned by Youtube]" The next one would be "[artist name abbreviation]AB[Actual Song Title Assigned by Youtube]", and so on. If there were more than 26 songs by that artist the 27th would be renamed ""[artist name abbreviation]BA[Actual Song Title Assigned by Youtube]", and so on. So far so good, except that didn't work with songs copied from purchased CDs, where the Subaru system ignored my renaming, played them haphazardly wherever it wanted to, with no order at all and no way to even group them so the artist's stuff at least was all played in a specific sequence. The SOLUTION was laborious and tedious, but SUCCESSFUL. I simply searched youtube for each selection I already owned on the purchased CDs, changed them to MP3, placed them in a dedicated folder on my PC's hard drive, then changed their titles by adding my abbreviated artist's name plus the "AA", "AB", "BA", "BB", etc. after each abbreviated name, in the order I wanted them played, then copied all the newly-named tracks to the list I had already compiled for the youtube downloads from all the other artists, copied the whole compilation to the FAT-32 formatted flash drive, and--baddabing, baddaboom--all was cool. This is not for accomplished techies who want to have a program to create a quick fix for the issue, but if you're more of an amateur and are willing to dedicate some time, it should solve the problem.
 
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