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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I'm new here. Just wanted to report that I threw my Escort Passport Max 2 on the rearview mirror without complains from eyesight.
I don't like how the RD protrudes in front of the mirror like that, so I ordered the BlendMount which I think will look better. There's a risk that because the BlendMount will move the RD closer to the windshield, eyesight will complain. Will update the thread once I test it.

P.S. I was trying to do a MirrorTap as well, but the wire that goes into the rearview mirror doesn't seem very friendly. So I'll just have to run down the wire which I was trying to avoid since I'm leasing.
 

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Which mount is that in the picture? I haven't mounted my old passport 9500 yet, still puzzling, and same lease constraints as you.
F.S.
 

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That'll look pretty clean once the wire is tucked out of the way. It may be interesting to see if eyesight behaves any different if it starts seeing the rd reflection in the windshield

I mounted mine a little further down. So far down its basically inside the head unit. Its actually waze :tango_face_wink:
 

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That'll look pretty clean once the wire is tucked out of the way. It may be interesting to see if eyesight behaves any different if it starts seeing the rd reflection in the windshield

I mounted mine a little further down. So far down its basically inside the head unit. Its actually waze :tango_face_wink:
I wonder if anyone has actually studied the difference in pull overs between Waze and radar detectors?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That'll look pretty clean once the wire is tucked out of the way. It may be interesting to see if eyesight behaves any different if it starts seeing the rd reflection in the windshield

I mounted mine a little further down. So far down its basically inside the head unit. Its actually waze :tango_face_wink:
I've grown accustomed to having both. If one doesn't catch em, the other one does. I keep my Max 2 in "No X" mode, so rarely see false positives. Waze, on the other hand, has too many false positives... but it does often save me.
 

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I've grown accustomed to having both. If one doesn't catch em, the other one does. I keep my Max 2 in "No X" mode, so rarely see false positives. Waze, on the other hand, has too many false positives... but it does often save me.

I use both too. The Max360 does great in NoX mode. Only problem is all the cars now with radar built in. So often get beeps from other cars, but after a while you get to tell the signature. The 360 tells how many radar signals you are getting and most cars send out 2, so that helps weed them out.


Waze has false positives too, but can also point out the ones doing instant-on or laser, which the 360 will pick up, but not nearly as soon!


Both have saved me in instance where the other would not have!
 
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Hey guys, I'm new here. Just wanted to report that I threw my Escort Passport Max 2 on the rearview mirror without complains from eyesight.
I don't like how the RD protrudes in front of the mirror like that, so I ordered the BlendMount which I think will look better. There's a risk that because the BlendMount will move the RD closer to the windshield, eyesight will complain. Will update the thread once I test it.

P.S. I was trying to do a MirrorTap as well, but the wire that goes into the rearview mirror doesn't seem very friendly. So I'll just have to run down the wire which I was trying to avoid since I'm leasing.
I have the suction cup mount for my dashcam in the middle of the windshield about 6 inches above the center dash speaker. No problems with Eyesight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have the suction cup mount for my dashcam in the middle of the windshield about 6 inches above the center dash speaker. No problems with Eyesight.
Interesting, would love to see a photo if possible. How did you route the wire?
 

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I'm using a V1 w/Savvy. Currently running it with the V1Connection app, and I've been pretty happy with it, I'm toying with the idea of paying for the V1Driver. :)

I'm a long time Bel/Escort user, tracing my roots back to 1996 with my first Bel (I started off the journey with a Uniden, back in 1991, when I first started driving - the Bel was among the first "good" things I bought after I graduated from college, as my now-wife/then-girlfriend and I spent about a year apart between Baltimore, MD., and Cleveland, OH.). I got out of the RD/countermeasures world (which was supremely entertaining, BTW) back in 2009/2010, but I was pretty active between 2005 and then. At one point, among other countermeasures - LI Rev2.8, Ver7.03 w/dual v8.0A heads up front and dual v8.5 Slims on the rear, plus a Ver8.3, Rev10.6.4 LPP setup with two heads on the front and one out back - I also ran a 4307 9500i along with a ZR3 Shifter. I've still got my old S7 antenna 8500x50, somewhere around here.......

My RD setup currently routes the V1 Remote Display module (think of this as the Escort/Bel DirectWire Smartcord) directly under the center cubby overhang, below the HVAC controls. 3M Automotive Trim/Molding tape easily holds this very lightweight unit up tight to the bottom of that overhang. In terms of tucking the wiring, there's a rather pliable panel seam running along that side, and it's pretty easy to tuck the flat/tape cord in there. I wedged it with my favorite trim tool: an old, plastic, magnetic swipe-card for the parking deck. The final result isn't visually perfect, but given that the vehicle is a lease and I didn't really want to spend a lot of time on the install (or, conversely, on tear-down), this was an acceptable compromise for me.

I used the V1 direct wire kit, tapping it into the cabin fuse box at the driver's left knee via a mini-fuse Add-A-Circuit, and the wiring leading up to the headliner is just tucked behind the door weatherstripping.

My wife and I lease vehicles for the convenience of it - yes, we know we're just throwing away about $2K per 3 years ($1K each vehicle), but we do this for the mindless ease of always having a vehicle in bumper-to-bumper coverage: for our current lifestyle, this just fits. While I would love to mess around with my daily driver once again (my first Subaru, a 2005 Legacy 2.5GT, 5MT, was taken to "Stage II" before she even had 6K miles on the odo and had by then barely spent 4 months without her window sticker - I was one of the OGs on the LegacyGT.com Forums, and was among the first to have the BL-platform 2.5GT ECUTek'ed), that's just not in the cards for us, for the time being. As a result, I've had to tailor my installs towards easy-on *and* easy-off. This is literally a 30-minute install (doing it nice and relaxed, no rush), and will barely take 10 minutes to tear-down, leaving no trace.

I'll snap some pix in the next day or so. :)
 

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Interesting, would love to see a photo if possible. How did you route the wire?
Here's a pic with the dash cam installed (the power cable is in my other car and it's cold outside!). I just let the power cable drop down since the camera is only a few inches above the dash.

It's a Rexing V1 1080p dash cam from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X528FNE/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The suction cup mount is here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N07VKIK/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The nice thing about this setup is that you can rotate the camera so the screen is horizontal. That results in a smaller "footprint." Sort of looks like a radar detector in this configuration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I received the BlendMount today and threw it on, photos below. No idea if this will work with Eyesight yet since I haven't driven the car, but it looks so much better.

In other news, I ordered a custom Y-cable from Safe-N-Sound1.com to power both a blackvue dr750s and my RD. I want a dash cam and really didn't want to run two sets of wires. Once I receive and install it, I'll post photos.
 

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Did you get a mirror tap with 2 long probes? You just insert them into the back of the molex plug that powers the rear view mirror. I know it looks a bit dodgy but I've used a couple of them without any issues. It's 100% reversible and does not change or modify your existing wiring in any way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Did you get a mirror tap with 2 long probes? You just insert them into the back of the molex plug that powers the rear view mirror. I know it looks a bit dodgy but I've used a couple of them without any issues. It's 100% reversible and does not change or modify your existing wiring in any way.
I can't see a molex plug in there and didn't just want to start pulling on the cable. Besides, since I want to run both a RD and a dash cam off the same cable, I feared power issue tapping into the mirror. Instead I'm getting a custom cable which will have two plugs (one for my escort and one for a Blackvue) along with a mute button.
 

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What does a custom cable run, I have the same radar detector and blackview dash cam. Are you hard wiring the custom cable for a cleaner look or using a cigarette lighter plug w/mute. I have an old blend mount as well no sure if it would fit or if I can get an adapter...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
What does a custom cable run, I have the same radar detector and blackview dash cam. Are you hard wiring the custom cable for a cleaner look or using a cigarette lighter plug w/mute. I have an old blend mount as well no sure if it would fit or if I can get an adapter...
Around $30... i'm hard wiring it, yes. Also this is a lease so would rather deal with one cable.
 

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back tap interior light

I mounted my V1 a little to the left of the left camera using the standard suction cup mounts as supplied and for power I back tapped the molex for the left interior light . no wire taps, no cut and splice, no long run of wire to try to tuck and hide. There are two Phillips screws to remove the camera/light/intellilink cover housing and the rest is just snap fittings so by slightly pulling prying with hands the cover pops off.
 

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I ran a power wire from my mirror mounted radar detector to the left side A-pillar. The wire easily tucks under the headliner. You then pull off the A-pillar trim and run it down into the back of the dashboard right to the fuse box. The wire is then virtually invisible.
 
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