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Discussion Starter #21
does this light come on automatically or only when the trunk light is manually switched on?
Light comes on automatically and stays on forever until you close the gate or your car battery drains.

Hello,
Can someone explain how all the fuses got blown and is the fuse hidden or accessible once the light is in . Since this works on another circuits lighting, why is it fused separately?

Also how does this light operate?
Thanks
Andrew
There is a harness that taps off of the existing lift gate light power. Near that harness, there is an in-line fuse. That fuse can be accessed the same way you would access the existing lift gate light, by removing one of the bottom panels, then pulling away the side panel (after removing 3 screws). You don't have to completely take the side panel off, you can fit your arm in there and get to the fuse. My fuse got blown because I hooked up the new light before hooking up all the other wires. The new light needs to be hooked up at the very end for the fuse not to blow. Not sure why it is fused separately, maybe to protect the existing light.
 

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...Not sure why it is fused separately, maybe to protect the existing light.
It's fused separately because the manufacturer is conscientious, all such accessories should contain a fuse by default because the manufacturer cannot fully control how an accessory is installed. There are two cases: the installer may install an accessory directly to the battery, in which case the fuse is absolutely necessary, or the installer may tap into an already fused existing circuit (which is the case here).

If an add-on accessory installer taps into an already fused existing circuit, then there are three possible scenarios:

1). The tapped circuit's fuse amperage rating is greater than the add-on accessory's fuse rating:

This is the only safe option as you'll see. In this case, the accessory's fuse is required because the maximum safe ampacity of the add-on accessory may be less than the tapped circuit's fuse amperage rating. If the add-on accessory were to experience an over-current event, then the accessory's fuse would most likely blow first protecting the accessory's circuit and preventing the entire tapped circuit from being taken down.

2). The tapped circuit's fuse amperage rating is equal to the add-on accessory's fuse rating:

In this case, the accessory's fuse may be redundant because it's unclear which fuse would blow first if the accessory experienced an over-current event. Additionally, the add-on accessory may cause the tapped circuit's fuse to blow in normal operation if the current drawn by the add-on accessory along with other devices on the circuit exceeded the tapped circuit's fuse amperage rating. This probably won't happen, but it could because you're adding another device to the circuit which may draw the maximum allowable amperage for that circuit since its fuse is rated the same as the maximum allowable amperage of the entire circuit.

3). The tapped circuit's fuse amperage rating is less than the add-on accessory's fuse rating:

In this case, you should definitely not add the add-on accessory to the existing circuit as it may draw more current all on its own in normal operation than the existing circuit is rated for. Additionally, the existing tapped circuit fuse would most likely blow before the add-on accessory fuse if the accessory experienced an over-current event taking down all devices on the circuit. In this case, the add-on accessory fuse is all but useless.

Now to answer the original question: With the only safe option (#1), the fuse is required. I'm not exactly certain yet as to which scenario is the case with the SubiSpeed LED light as I haven't had a chance to install mine yet. I'm assuming and hoping it's scenario #1. I'll let you know.

But, in general, as you can see, adding any add-on accessory to an existing fused circuit is a bit risky. You have to be sure the existing circuit can take on another load if other devices on the circuit are in operation. You've probably already experienced such a situation if you plugged in too many high current loads to an outlet in your home such as a space heater on the same fused circuit as your microwave oven.

Hopefully, the manufacturer of an add-on device did their homework to ensure this won't happen if their instructions specifically call for you to wire to an existing circuit.
 

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My LED arrived today and will install this weekend!! I appreciate all the tips, especially regarding the hidden screws and the fuse! I was wondering if you disconnected the car battery before working on the wiring? Seems like that would have prevented the fuse from blowing in the first place. Just curious if the instructions mention anything about disconnecting the battery? Instructions that came with the kit are 100% Japanese!!
 

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We have a 2020 Ascent Limited. I’ve upgraded the entire interior to LED and is awesome but as others note the factory cargo area light, even LED, doesn’t provide much light. I ordered the Subispeed lift gate light and installed today— light is really bright and lights up area behind really well. Followed the u-tube video and most panels came loose pretty easy. Did it at 50 degrees and should have waited til warmer. Couldn’t get big lift gate panel off because the screw/plugs in upper corners woulded come out but got bottom loose and ran wires up left side. (Held panel up with small block of wood and there was enough room for my big hands). There are a few minor differences in getting the Ascent left panels loose but once loose install was a snap. Luckily I didn’t have any fuse issues and the lift gate light came on as soon as I closed and reopened the lift gate. Still don’t know why this isn’t a factory option. Thanks to everyone for the input- really made this easy.
 

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Update: I managed to finally remove the bottom panel of the door. It is indeed held by 2 screws hidden under the handle on the right half. You have to pry the cover off the handle to reveal the screws. I followed the youtube forester video. Another difference is obviously you are going to wire up the left side rather than the right side. Unlike the forester, there are 3 screws to remove for that left panel that holds the existing trunk light. One is under the hook. One is hidden under a very small circular flush panel. The 3rd is visible. Other than that rest of the video applies to the Ascent. I did hit a snag at the end. The light did not turn on. The trunk light turns on but the new lift gate light does not turn on. I don't know what I did wrong. The reviews mention a 2 amp fuse that seems to be a common issue. I don't understand where this 2 amp fuse is in relation to this kit. I don't see it.
I can’t find the screws near the handle I have. 2019 and don’t see any panel besides the actual handle help
 

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if you look closely on the handle, youll see 2 notches you can stick a screwdriver or a trim removal piece. youre essentially going to pop a cover off the handle.
 

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You should always unplug/disconnect power from any electrical system when you are working on it...
Gross blanket statement. As a previous, professional auto electrician I wholeheartedly disagree.
Totally depends on what’s being done to the vehicle.
If you are a novice with no electrical /engineering experience, then do what you need to do.
 

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Got it Done thank you no issues with fuse or nothing clean install and quick
if you look closely on the handle, youll see 2 notches you can stick a screwdriver or a trim removal piece. youre essentially going to pop a cover off th
if you look closely on the handle, youll see 2 notches you can stick a screwdriver or a trim removal piece. youre essentially going to pop a cover off the handle.
 

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I'm installing on my new 2020 Ascent today, and I've got a question and a comment:

1) Which is the correct version of the Light -- the 2019+ Forester, or 14-18 Forester? (You can see both here: Search results for: 'lift gate light')

I assumed I needed the 2019+ for my 2020 Ascent, but the vehicle has a 2-pin connector and the new light has a 3-pin connector on the harness. Looking at the photos more closely now, I'm 90% sure I bought the wrong version.

2) Regarding blown fuses -- I haven't had this problem, but I think I see how that could easily happen. Take a look at time 5:00 in the installation video -- they show hooking into power before routing the wire through the headliner towards the hinge:

In this screengrab from 3:26, you can see that there is a black terminator (circled in blue) already installed on the wires. This provides protection from an accidental short while routing the wires:

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However, take at the harness I received -- it shipped with the pins left bare, separated from their black plastic housing:

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I believe this is intentional - the product photos on SubieSpeed show it this way as well. This isn't really a problem by itself, and I imagine they made this manufacturing change to make it easier to snake the wire through the rubber conduit. However, if you installed this harness using the procedure shown in the video, you could very easily short energized wires against each other, or the frame, blowing the fuse.

I believe the best fix here is also the simplest -- skip hooking into power, and go back to it as the very last step. This is a good practice to follow anyway.
 

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regarding the bare pins. the other part of the harness is still connected to the other side of the harness. mine came like that as well. took me awhile before i realized it was still connected.
 
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