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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hope this helps someone else. Long post.
Last night I went to load up some stuff my wife needed to take to a local church. Winter has been happening a bit much here lately. It was 4 below zero at the time and there was a ridge of ice on top of my rear bumper along with a bit of snow and snow crud. When I hit the button and the gate tried to open, it struggled for a second before it broke free. And then it stopped. It was a few inches open, but it no longer seemed to have power. Now, I have blocked it before and it stops but will reset itself with hitting the button again, but this time all I got was 3 quick beeps. I could move it by hand though. Not only that, but the latch no longer latched. Even trying to close it manually, it wouldn’t latch closed. There is just no power there. And, it’s 4 below on it’s way to 18 below. I always park outside. I searched the manual for a clue on what to do but found no help. I called the dealership and the best they could do at the time was have someone call me back when they had time. I looked at the fuse charts in the manual but nothing indicates what fuse it could be. Everything I tried with the buttons only gave me 3quick beeps and my dash showed the rear gate open. And it’s getting colder, but it had been running this whole time and was warm inside. So I decided to drive to the dealer to catch them before they closed. Driving the 15-20 minutes with an unlatched rear gate, you find out that there is a very annoying constant beep that is, well, very annoying. But the hatch stayed down on the smooth road. I pulled into their service area and presented the problem. They were very nice. Two service advisor/writers and a mechanic decended on my rear gate, trying to figure it out. In spite of much of the lift system being common to an Outback, they said the Ascent latch is quite different. They thought something mechanically was wrong with the latch. You can pull off the access panel on the gate and see most of it. But I wasn’t convinced. I had the mechanic look up the fuse because it seemed more like an electrical or controls issue to me. Turns out, the fuse for the rear gate is shared with another interior circuit. He narrowed it down to either fuse 14 or 19 on the dash panel. I pulled those fuses and looked at them, but they were fine. Dog gone it, thought I had it. They were writing up a repair order and I was getting ready to call my wife for a ride. But then, when I pushed the hatch closed, it latched! I hit the button and it worked! Seems the system just needed to power down and reboot. (Is that the answer to everything computer controlled?). It must have overloaded trying to break the ice and either got confused or self protected. The lifters on the Ascent are on other vehicles. So I imagine this can happen with them as well. I hope this helps someone else. The service guys said they hadn’t seen this before and that the power lift system always knows what position it is in. I suppose, unless it is knocked “unconscious”.
 

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Not the same, but maybe a useful data point. Last night, I drove up to the pickup area for my daughter, engine running, and she came out and went first to the liftgate. Pressed the outside button, three beeps but no open. From the driver's seat, I hit unlock just for grins. She pressed the outside button again, three beeps, nothing. Gave up and put her stuff in the 2nd row.

At home, I parked and powered off the car. Thinking it was stuck, I went around back and pressed the outside button while lifting a little, and it opened. There was a bungee cord that had flopped down into the liftgate closure area, pretty thick and a hard plastic hook right in the closure zone. It wasn't in the center latch area; it was way off to the left corner, and adding significant friction while allowing the hatch to latch. I never got an open hatch warning while driving, so I think it was latched and just had major friction for opening.

So in my case, I did do an engine-off (but not an engine-on), as well as removing the source of restriction, and it was back to normal operation. Would it have power-opened had she or I helped it mechanically before turning the engine/system off? Hard to say, but maybe not, as it didn't even seem to try - just beeped, no other noises. So maybe the power-off was needed.

F.S.
 

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Not the same, but maybe a useful data point. Last night, I drove up to the pickup area for my daughter, engine running, and she came out and went first to the liftgate. Pressed the outside button, three beeps but no open. From the driver's seat, I hit unlock just for grins. She pressed the outside button again, three beeps, nothing. Gave up and put her stuff in the 2nd row.

F.S.
When your daughter tried the second time, after you unlocked the car doors, was the car's transmission in park or in drive?
 

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When your daughter tried the second time, after you unlocked the car doors, was the car's transmission in park or in drive?
Was going to say this as well. Needs to be in park.
 
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When your daughter tried the second time, after you unlocked the car doors, was the car's transmission in park or in drive?
Good point. Pretty sure it was in Park, as I am hyper aware of Anton Yelchin and paranoid about cars rolling when they shouldn't. That said, nothing is 100% in my memory these days ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did you try the initialization procedure on pages 157 and 158.
When your daughter tried the second time, after you unlocked the car doors, was the car's transmission in park or in drive?
Was going to say this as well. Needs to be in park.
In my case, I tried everything the manual had to offer. I even looked around the edge to make sure the safety tubing that runs along the side (to detect objects or people getting caught in there) was free from any obstruction or damage. I would have expected a warning message in that case though. Without any other evidence, I feel it was an overload or a confusion of the system. Pulling the fuse/power caused it to appear to reset. Afterwards, I did have to change the readout for tire pressure back to PSI as it changed to Kpa when I did the fuse dance.
 

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Hope this helps someone else. Long post.
Last night I went to load up some stuff my wife needed to take to a local church. Winter has been happening a bit much here lately. It was 4 below zero at the time and there was a ridge of ice on top of my rear bumper along with a bit of snow and snow crud. When I hit the button and the gate tried to open, it struggled for a second before it broke free. And then it stopped. It was a few inches open, but it no longer seemed to have power. Now, I have blocked it before and it stops but will reset itself with hitting the button again, but this time all I got was 3 quick beeps. I could move it by hand though. Not only that, but the latch no longer latched. Even trying to close it manually, it wouldn’t latch closed. There is just no power there. And, it’s 4 below on it’s way to 18 below. I always park outside. I searched the manual for a clue on what to do but found no help. I called the dealership and the best they could do at the time was have someone call me back when they had time. I looked at the fuse charts in the manual but nothing indicates what fuse it could be. Everything I tried with the buttons only gave me 3quick beeps and my dash showed the rear gate open. And it’s getting colder, but it had been running this whole time and was warm inside. So I decided to drive to the dealer to catch them before they closed. Driving the 15-20 minutes with an unlatched rear gate, you find out that there is a very annoying constant beep that is, well, very annoying. But the hatch stayed down on the smooth road. I pulled into their service area and presented the problem. They were very nice. Two service advisor/writers and a mechanic decended on my rear gate, trying to figure it out. In spite of much of the lift system being common to an Outback, they said the Ascent latch is quite different. They thought something mechanically was wrong with the latch. You can pull off the access panel on the gate and see most of it. But I wasn’t convinced. I had the mechanic look up the fuse because it seemed more like an electrical or controls issue to me. Turns out, the fuse for the rear gate is shared with another interior circuit. He narrowed it down to either fuse 14 or 19 on the dash panel. I pulled those fuses and looked at them, but they were fine. Dog gone it, thought I had it. They were writing up a repair order and I was getting ready to call my wife for a ride. But then, when I pushed the hatch closed, it latched! I hit the button and it worked! Seems the system just needed to power down and reboot. (Is that the answer to everything computer controlled?). It must have overloaded trying to break the ice and either got confused or self protected. The lifters on the Ascent are on other vehicles. So I imagine this can happen with them as well. I hope this helps someone else. The service guys said they hadn’t seen this before and that the power lift system always knows what position it is in. I suppose, unless it is knocked “unconscious”.

I had this happen as well. Mine was not snow, but a bad battery. I had been sitting at a park, listening to a book on usb stick in the ACC position for about 10 minutes while I ate my lunch. Couldn't start the car - all the lights came on. Can't remember when I tried to hit the rear hatch button, but it started to open but wouldn't latch. I waited for about 10 minutes and tried to start the car again, no dice. Hatch was open and beeping. Wouldn't latch even when I manually closed it. Texted the Subaru concierge and asked him for suggestions. He said you can "reset" the system if you disconnect the battery terminals and hold the two cables together for about 10 seconds. Built-in hack. I didn't have the tools with me to do that. After another 10-15 minutes, I was actually able to start the car. Meanwhile, he checked with his service department and they had a loaner I could use. So I secured the back hatch with a bungie cord and drove (constant beeping) to the dealership. They determined my battery was low/possibly leaking. The hatch issue wasn't so much a hatch issue but secondary to the battery problem. I would have tried restarting and resetting everything but once I had the car started, I didn't want to chance it not starting again and leaving me stranded.
 

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Went through this with my wife's '17 Outback Touring. Expect it will eventually happen with my Ascent. The stock batteries, made by Johnson Controls are underpowered and short lived. These things cause all kind of electrical/computer issues. Using a "host" battery to maintain the circuit will help keep the car drivable when you have to replace the battery. The advice for other issues of disconnecting the battery cables from the terminals and crossing them for 5-10 seconds is the same cure that worked for the Outback lift gate and radio...
 

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Hey guys, I was trying to come up with a way to keep the hatch from killing the battery. Tried a few different things, caused a few different problems, but finally may have worked it out.

At one point I had the hatch to where it wouldn't open or close and simply beeped. I really didn't want to mess with the battery cables so I was excited to find the info about the fuses (thanks @mr.paul). Turns out it's Fuse #14. That one did the trick. Pull it out, wait a few seconds, put it back in.

I also shot some videos of my findings if you're interested.

How to get the computer to sleep while hatch is open:

How to get the hatch unstuck if you screw it up:
 

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Hey guys, I was trying to come up with a way to keep the hatch from killing the battery. Tried a few different things, caused a few different problems, but finally may have worked it out.

At one point I had the hatch to where it wouldn't open or close and simply beeped. I really didn't want to mess with the battery cables so I was excited to find the info about the fuses (thanks @mr.paul). Turns out it's Fuse #14. That one did the trick. Pull it out, wait a few seconds, put it back in.

I also shot some videos of my findings if you're interested.

How to get the computer to sleep while hatch is open: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3EgL3g2Eg8

How to get the hatch unstuck if you screw it up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yh5adWuGVXo
Thanks for the videos and howdy, fellow Texan!

From that first one I see you guys also have a Mazda CX-9 and Toyota 4Runner :lol:
 

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Hey guys, I was trying to come up with a way to keep the hatch from killing the battery. Tried a few different things, caused a few different problems, but finally may have worked it out.

At one point I had the hatch to where it wouldn't open or close and simply beeped. I really didn't want to mess with the battery cables so I was excited to find the info about the fuses (thanks @mr.paul). Turns out it's Fuse #14. That one did the trick. Pull it out, wait a few seconds, put it back in.

I also shot some videos of my findings if you're interested.

How to get the computer to sleep while hatch is open: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3EgL3g2Eg8

How to get the hatch unstuck if you screw it up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yh5adWuGVXo
I just wanted to say thank you, to you, Wazioc for voluntarily applying your intellect, ingenuity & effort into finding a temporary workaround to this issue. Much appreciated! :)
 
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