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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im moving from Virginia to San Deigo then to Hawaii so we wanted a nice camera to record anything that might happen along the way. I purchased the cam for the road and the tight parking spots in Hawaii.

Random Notes:
  • The camera kit came with the 3-wire version of the hardwire kit and allows for a voltage cutoff depending on your desired settings. I selected12.2v for now as it should allow up to 6hr of parking mode time.
  • Also, I had a hard time with the fuse jumpers and the quality of fuses that came with the kit. One fuse box wire jumper fit fine the other one was a bit oversized and would not fit in the fuse box. Thankfully our local AutoZone had a different brand in stock which also happen to fit better it the fuse box.
  • I went with the 128gb Samsung pro endurance card.
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Awesome. I'm still using an A119 but may upgrade to a two camera system. How exactly did you run the wire from the front to back? On the floor via the door sills or up by the headliner?

I have to chime in that those add-a-fuse adapters have a certain "correct" orientation so that the result is two separate and properly fused circuits.

I made a similar comment last year on this forum shortly after I installed my dashcam.
"I think one of the pictures in this thread has the fuse adapter oriented incorrectly. As you look at the fuse panel, the right side of each fuse slot is the 12V source and the left side is the "load" side (the dashcam for example). You have to orient the fuse adapter so that the little red pigtail is sticking out toward the left. This ensures that the dashcam is actually fused. The 12V comes from the right side of the slot, passes through the new fuse, then is connected to the dashcam via the red pigtail lead... "
 

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Im moving from Virginia to San Deigo then to Hawaii so we wanted a nice camera to record anything that might happen along the way... View attachment 1833 View attachment 1834
Nice view of the eyesight module there. I think that’s the first pics I’ve seen with the cover removed. Does your rear view mirror adjust properly with the camera on the left side like that?
I put mine on the right side since that side of the mirror is farther from the windshield usually. Just curious!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice view of the eyesight module there. I think that’s the first pics I’ve seen with the cover removed. Does your rear view mirror adjust properly with the camera on the left side like that?
I put mine on the right side since that side of the mirror is farther from the windshield usually. Just curious!
So I kinda messed that up. I lower my seat pretty well but yes I limited my ability to move the mirror for sure. Using the Digital camera option its no big deal. The perfect placement would be a bit lower but and I might have to move if it ends up bugging me, I don't want to get in the way of eyesight im already hearing that im too close, to begin with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Awesome. I'm still using an A119 but may upgrade to a two camera system. How exactly did you run the wire from the front to back? On the floor via the door sills or up by the headliner?

I have to chime in that those add-a-fuse adapters have a certain "correct" orientation so that the result is two separate and properly fused circuits.

I made a similar comment last year on this forum shortly after I installed my dashcam.
"I think one of the pictures in this thread has the fuse adapter oriented incorrectly. As you look at the fuse panel, the right side of each fuse slot is the 12V source and the left side is the "load" side (the dashcam for example). You have to orient the fuse adapter so that the little red pigtail is sticking out toward the left. This ensures that the dashcam is actually fused. The 12V comes from the right side of the slot, passes through the new fuse, then is connected to the dashcam via the red pigtail lead... "
You know I think I was reading your posts from that forum list. Both of my fuses were open so no car equipment is running from either blank so im hoping that they work both directions. I can see that being a concern if you are removing and reinserting a fuse. I might have to do some more research on the topic.
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On to the wire running I went through the headliner and the rear gate panels for sure. I even removed the watertight tubing and fit the cable through it. It was a pretty tight fit and I just tried to stay on the backside of all of the airbags. I wish the cable ends were a bit smaller!!!

tools used
homestyle fish tape
metal coat hanger/ string trimmer string!
 

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You know I think I was reading your posts from that forum list. Both of my fuses were open so no car equipment is running from either blank so im hoping that they work both directions. I can see that being a concern if you are removing and reinserting a fuse. I might have to do some more research on the topic. View attachment 1838

On to the wire running I went through the headliner and the rear gate panels for sure. I even removed the watertight tubing and fit the cable through it. It was a pretty tight fit and I just tried to stay on the backside of all of the airbags. I wish the cable ends were a bit smaller!!!

tools used
homestyle fish tape
metal coat hanger/ string trimmer string!
Thanks for the tips. This project is on my to-do list. Was the fish tape used to pull the wire through the headliner? Did that mean that you were able to not pull any trim from ceiling? I need to look at my car when I get a chance...

I had to think about your comments regarding the circuits. I'm not 100% positive on any of this - I think that the fuse slots opposite the pigtail are connected to each other and intended to connect to the "hot" side of the fuse slot. In our case, the right side. There is a test to see if I am correct. If you pull the fuse out of the lower of the two add-a-fuses in your photo, whatever it's connected to should still work, i.e. the fuses aren't part of the circuit. I could be totally wrong, but that test would provide the answer. The one with the pigtail pointing left is in the proper orientation that actually includes the fuse in the circuit AFIAK.

disclaimer: I'm no electrician or EE
 

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thanks for the post. i have an almost identical unit made by street guardian. was wondering how to be able to install it after having in the box since christmas 2018. thought i might have to pay $$$ to a pro installer, since i wasn't sure how to release the trim pieces without destroying them. my rear cam is an otional part, but was waitng to buy it until knowing how to get it in. if you have time; maybe some tips on how to pop the various trim parts for those of us who are all thumbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks for the post. i have an almost identical unit made by street guardian. was wondering how to be able to install it after having in the box since christmas 2018. thought i might have to pay $$$ to a pro installer, since i wasn't sure how to release the trim pieces without destroying them. my rear cam is an otional part, but was waitng to buy it until knowing how to get it in. if you have time; maybe some tips on how to pop the various trim parts for those of us who are all thumbs.
Firstly it's pretty scary especially since you haven't done it before. The tools included are pretty helpful for prying and getting safely behind trim and other trims. It's really loud when you pull them off especially the back pieces. I think most items have In the back have 4/5 connections. Finally opening the eyesight cover an properly putting them back was way harder then removing them. Please let me know how and if I can help.
 

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Firstly it's pretty scary especially since you haven't done it before. The tools included are pretty helpful for prying and getting safely behind trim and other trims. It's really loud when you pull them off especially the back pieces. I think most items have In the back have 4/5 connections. Finally opening the eyesight cover an properly putting them back was way harder then removing them. Please let me know how and if I can help.
thanks very much. i will be collecting the tools you recommended, and a set of trim removal tools from amazon. hopefully it will help preclude having to buy a whole new interior. be well.
 
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Here is a post post that just appeared. These folks were most unfortunate in this incident, but came out it fairly unhurt. It is a valuable piece of knowledge about what to be dealing with in fishing through the head liner. It can be seen in here, how the curtain bag deployed; and its relative placement in the roof. Good to know.

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks very much. I will be collecting the tools you recommended, and a set of trim removal tools from amazon. hopefully, it will help preclude having to buy a whole new interior. be well.
Thankfully my kit came with all of the tools needed and I tried hard to stay out of the way of the airbags for sure. Again good luck.
 

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Here is a post post that just appeared. These folks were most unfortunate in this incident, but came out it fairly unhurt. It is a valuable piece of knowledge about what to be dealing with in fishing through the head liner. It can be seen in here, how the curtain bag deployed; and its relative placement in the roof. Good to know.

We have our new 2020 Ascent to replace the 2019 in the photos that was totaled. I'm planning to put a dual dash cam system into the new Ascent.
 

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Glad to hear you're ok. Now you'll be able to give the rest of us some comparisons of the 2020 against the 2019 models; the good, bad and unchanged. And thanks for the photos.
 
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