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Instructions for OEM hitch installation?
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Just for future reference, the torque spec (and sequence) is noted in the installation instructions. Subaru Online Parts has them conveniently linked on their product page.One thing I initially overlooked -- Is there a specified torque spec for these trailer hitch bolts? Or do we just do it German spec?
EDIT: I figured 81 ft-lbs. Later in the video, all out of order, it eventually states 82 ft-lb is the proper torque.
https://www.subaruonlineparts.com/docs/L101SXC004.pdf
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Oh man that's SUPER helpful to know. I didn't know there were any instructions available, other than the video that others linked to above. Luckily it was a really great video. It wasn't 100% correct, but the incorrect parts were not hard to figure out.
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To expand on what I said in the last post about the instructions not being 100%, here are the corrections I would make, as well as a few additional tips I learned.
The biggest obstacle I had was that one of the flange nuts that is welded onto one of the side brackets came warped from the factory. All of the nuts were difficult to thread bolts into due to them having paint in the threads, so I decided to run a bolt through each of them before installing, to make it an easier job to thread them in once the brackets are in place and the angles are more awkward to work with. That's when I discovered one of the nuts was actually warped. I destroyed 2 bolts in trying to chase the threads, before concluding definitively that I had a defective product. Luckily for me my dealer had another kit in stock and let me come swap out what I needed. But it was still a big inconvenience, adding an hour to my install time and costing me $15 in gas and bridge toll. Which leads me to my first tip:
- When you buy your hitch, don't leave the dealership without first confirming all the welded-on nuts are okay. Thread a bolt into each (maybe bring a socket wrench with you? 19mm or 3/4"). There are 3 nuts on each side bracket, and 1 nut inside each end of the main portion of the hitch. Thread through the whole length of each nut.
- The (2) 8mm bolts referenced at 2:30, in the rearward portion of the wheelwells, only exist if you have the mud flaps installed. Otherwise they are just empty holes.
- At 7:58 he says to tighten the bolts for the brackets. Don't do this yet, leave them loose. You'll see why. (And in fact, when it gets to that point in the video, his nuts are still in fact loose.)
- At 8:20 he says to loosely set the wiring harness in position, but he doesn't show or say which end goes where. This may be obvious to most, but in case it isn't, The side with the Y-split and 2 connectors goes toward the center of the bumper, the side with the single rectangular connector goes toward the corner/side of the vehicle.
---Also, look carefully at exactly 8:22, where he purposefully sets the cable on top of that little stud. Route it BELOW that stud and it will give you a little bit more length to work with. More on that later.
- Torque spec for all the grade 10.9 bolts is 82 ft-lbs. The video does later mention this, just not during the step where it actually belongs.
- At 10:03 he shows installing some cover plates that are no longer part of the hitch kit in current versions. Disregard this step. They are not necessary anyway.
- When routing the wiring harness, leave all zip ties loose until you have the whole harness in place in case you need to make adjustments. Routing it exactly as shown in the video did not work for me. The cable was too short that way. Specifically, there is a rubber grommet where the cable passes into the interior of the vehicle, and the grommet is in a fixed position. I believe mine was fixed slightly too far to one side, making the "exterior" section of the cable too short and the "interior" section had way more slack than necessary. You could probably just cut the tape holding the grommet and move it where you need it. But with some adjustments in cable routing I had just enough length to make it work.
Hopefully anyone in the future looking to self-install will find this info before they dive in, and I can help save someone else the same frustrations.
The biggest obstacle I had was that one of the flange nuts that is welded onto one of the side brackets came warped from the factory. All of the nuts were difficult to thread bolts into due to them having paint in the threads, so I decided to run a bolt through each of them before installing, to make it an easier job to thread them in once the brackets are in place and the angles are more awkward to work with. That's when I discovered one of the nuts was actually warped. I destroyed 2 bolts in trying to chase the threads, before concluding definitively that I had a defective product. Luckily for me my dealer had another kit in stock and let me come swap out what I needed. But it was still a big inconvenience, adding an hour to my install time and costing me $15 in gas and bridge toll. Which leads me to my first tip:
- When you buy your hitch, don't leave the dealership without first confirming all the welded-on nuts are okay. Thread a bolt into each (maybe bring a socket wrench with you? 19mm or 3/4"). There are 3 nuts on each side bracket, and 1 nut inside each end of the main portion of the hitch. Thread through the whole length of each nut.
- The (2) 8mm bolts referenced at 2:30, in the rearward portion of the wheelwells, only exist if you have the mud flaps installed. Otherwise they are just empty holes.
- At 7:58 he says to tighten the bolts for the brackets. Don't do this yet, leave them loose. You'll see why. (And in fact, when it gets to that point in the video, his nuts are still in fact loose.)
- At 8:20 he says to loosely set the wiring harness in position, but he doesn't show or say which end goes where. This may be obvious to most, but in case it isn't, The side with the Y-split and 2 connectors goes toward the center of the bumper, the side with the single rectangular connector goes toward the corner/side of the vehicle.
---Also, look carefully at exactly 8:22, where he purposefully sets the cable on top of that little stud. Route it BELOW that stud and it will give you a little bit more length to work with. More on that later.
- Torque spec for all the grade 10.9 bolts is 82 ft-lbs. The video does later mention this, just not during the step where it actually belongs.
- At 10:03 he shows installing some cover plates that are no longer part of the hitch kit in current versions. Disregard this step. They are not necessary anyway.
- When routing the wiring harness, leave all zip ties loose until you have the whole harness in place in case you need to make adjustments. Routing it exactly as shown in the video did not work for me. The cable was too short that way. Specifically, there is a rubber grommet where the cable passes into the interior of the vehicle, and the grommet is in a fixed position. I believe mine was fixed slightly too far to one side, making the "exterior" section of the cable too short and the "interior" section had way more slack than necessary. You could probably just cut the tape holding the grommet and move it where you need it. But with some adjustments in cable routing I had just enough length to make it work.
Hopefully anyone in the future looking to self-install will find this info before they dive in, and I can help save someone else the same frustrations.
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I just bought the L101SXC005 kit from my dealer to install on my 2022 Ascent. It includes the H771SXC002 wiring harness (with a sticker on it that says "New Ground Design". It has a ground wire coming out of the side of the harness that plugs into the car-side plug with a ground ring on it. Also, there is a single screw (p/N 904580002) that is included in the kit (looks like it fits in the ground ring). Anyone have any idea of how this is supposed to be installed or have a link to the instructions for this version?
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Installed the OEM hitch a day ago. Same question. Did not find a hole to connect the ground with the screw.
I just intstalled this on my 2023 today. I put the ground ring connector under the nut in the picture below. After I was cleaning up, I noticed that extra scew in a bag, which I also figure was for the ground. Did you ever figure out the 'correct' way to install it? I will fix it if somebody can post the instructions for L101SXC005. I only plan to use this for my bike rack, but at some point I'd like to ground it according to the official instructions.
As a side note, I thought the installation was straightforward and definitely worth the savings over having the dealer do it. I also noticed that the 2023 has sound deadening material in the left and right rear corners. I had to attach the double sided tape for the harness to the sound deadening instead of bare metal like the 2019. It stuck just fine and is secure. I'm slowly discovering improvements to the 2023 over my previous 2019 that aren't necessarily part of the obvious stuff.
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Small update on the ground connector: trailer lights would not work w/o it. I did the same connection as in the picture above and it works fine. Still not able to judge if is it the correct way to connect the ground. But there is no other hole or bolt for it nearby.
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Yeah I did the same thing. I even paid for the Subaru service subscription for 3 days and they don't have the 005 instructions. Not sure what's going on or where we are "supposed" to put the ground. Maybe Subaru corporate will know if I call.I just intstalled this on my 2023 today. I put the ground ring connector under the nut in the picture below. After I was cleaning up, I noticed that extra scew in a bag, which I also figure was for the ground. Did you ever figure out the 'correct' way to install it? I will fix it if somebody can post the instructions for L101SXC005. I only plan to use this for my bike rack, but at some point I'd like to ground it according to the official instructions.
As a side note, I thought the installation was straightforward and definitely worth the savings over having the dealer do it. I also noticed that the 2023 has sound deadening material in the left and right rear corners. I had to attach the double sided tape for the harness to the sound deadening instead of bare metal like the 2019. It stuck just fine and is secure. I'm slowly discovering improvements to the 2023 over my previous 2019 that aren't necessarily part of the obvious stuff.
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All accessories installation instructions are free. No need for an STIS account.
Use the latest hitch install instructions for the hitch.
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The issue was that I could only get the version 003 online for free. That doesn't have the ground wire instructions. Where do you get the install docs for free?
2019 Subaru Ascent Limited 2010 Subaru Legacy GT limited
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The installs I have seen use a nearby bolt/stud it is a ground so as long as the contact is good it will work fine.
I'm glad to see that it works with the way I installed/pictured it above. I'd still like to see what the latest instructions from Subaru say with regards to where to put the included screw.
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The latest instructions are on STIS. They're always free to download. There is no 005 instructions on STIS.
I had no idea that the instructions were available for free, lol. I discovered that there is a front bumper underguard for the 2023 model that isn't on Subaru's website. I had the underguard on my black 2019, but I think I might not install one on my green 2023. Might be chrome overkill, even though I do not have the Touring "nostrils".
I don’t think STIS is free?I had no idea that the instructions were available for free, lol. I discovered that there is a front bumper underguard for the 2023 model that isn't on Subaru's website. I had the underguard on my black 2019, but I think I might not install one on my green 2023. Might be chrome overkill, even though I do not have the Touring "nostrils".
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