Subaru Ascent Forum banner
1 - 20 of 37 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi

I am trying to run two 4-guage wires from the battery to the trailer hitch for a 40 amp dc to dc charger for my camper. I am wondering what is the best way to run these wires. I have looked underneath the vehicle, there are a couple of plastic/heat shield covers that protect the fuel line and brake lines. If I can remove those, looks like I can zip tie the wires to the bracket that is securing the fuel and brake lines. However the is a mix of bolts and 2 different kind of clips holding the shield covers ... any idea on how to remove these clips?

Is there a better way to run these wires, perhaps along the path used for the trailer brake controller (I don't know how the trailer brake controller wires are run from the front to the back) or even inside the cabin?

Wiring for a winch would be the same.

Vehicle is a 2019 Ascent.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Per my comment on the other thread, a few posts were really helpful for me to determine my path. Check these out,et us know how it turns out!

7-way Trailer Connector Wiring <- @Robert.Mauro 's video about where to run wires and other excellent commentary

<-video about how to remove rear bumper cover to access grommets and other hitch wiring.

FWIW, I then ordered the Anderson Connectors and basically the setup this guy has/same parts to do it on my trailer to connect to the DC-to-DC. Again, I ended up going a different route.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Per my comment on the other thread, a few posts were really helpful for me to determine my path. Check these out,et us know how it turns out!

7-way Trailer Connector Wiring <- @Robert.Mauro 's video about where to run wires and other excellent commentary

<-video about how to remove rear bumper cover to access grommets and other hitch wiring.

FWIW, I then ordered the Anderson Connectors and basically the setup this guy has/same parts to do it on my trailer to connect to the DC-to-DC. Again, I ended up going a different route.
Thank you. This is very helpful especially @Robert.Mauro's video.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,407 Posts
Minor thought: If you're running two positive wires, then I think you should use a thicker wires and split it near the trailer hitch. Then ground it to bare metal.

I would run it thru the cabin and thru the firewall grommet
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
12,146 Posts
IIRC, the sets of stuff running underneath are (a) fuel and (b) air conditioner (and (c) brakes/brake sensor wires). The air conditioner lines get hot as well, so, I wouldn't run them near those either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Minor thought: If you're running two positive wires, then I think you should use a thicker wires and split it near the trailer hitch. Then ground it to bare metal.

I would run it thru the cabin and thru the firewall grommet
I am running a positive and negative, I want the negative wire grounded as close as possible to the battery. Yes, I am now leaning towards running inside through the firewall. I have opened up the wire chase on the front and rear seat rows and the cargo/spare wheel cover. Working on taking the driver side rear panel one beside the 3rd row seating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
IIRC, the sets of stuff running underneath are (a) fuel and (b) air conditioner (and (c) brakes/brake sensor wires). The air conditioner lines get hot as well, so, I wouldn't run them near those either.
The pictures I posted were the rear heater pipe. Not seeing any great options underneath that allows for a attachment points for the full run. Going to run it inside.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
12,146 Posts
Working on taking the driver side rear panel one beside the 3rd row seating.
That's not a fun task. I unclipped it at the front and rear, and then pulled out the third row cup holder, and fished it through (from the cup holder, you can reach front and back, pretty far). Keep in mind it's attached to the "ivory"/"grey" rear upper quarter panel plastic. Hope that helps. I never ever want to have to actually remove that whole panel for anything, ugh, lol!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's not a fun task. I unclipped it at the front and rear, and then pulled out the third row cup holder, and fished it through (from the cup holder, you can reach front and back, pretty far). Keep in mind it's attached to the "ivory"/"grey" rear upper quarter panel plastic. Hope that helps. I never ever want to have to actually remove that whole panel for anything, ugh, lol!
Thanks for the cup holder idea, did not think of that.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
12,146 Posts
Thanks for the cup holder idea, did not think of that.
Honestly, neither did I. I wanted to mount USB outlets in front of it, because I suspected there was space in front of the front-most cup holder of the unit. So, I pulled it out and learned it by total accident, lol!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Honestly, neither did I. I wanted to mount USB outlets in front of it, because I suspected there was space in front of the front-most cup holder of the unit. So, I pulled it out and learned it by total accident, lol!!!
@Robert.Mauro is there a trick to removing that cup holder? I removed the clips along the passenger facing edge at tried to lift if up, but it is still held in pretty good. Are there clips attaching the cup holder to the side panel as well?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
12,146 Posts
@Robert.Mauro is there a trick to removing that cup holder? I removed the clips along the passenger facing edge at tried to lift if up, but it is still held in pretty good. Are there clips attaching the cup holder to the side panel as well?
Let me go do it again when I get a break. I think it just pops out from the outside edge, but, there may have been one screw hidden.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Progress Update: Had not luck using the grommet in the middle of the engine bay. Could not figure out where it came in (most likely within the center console). Instead used the opening that is used for the wiring to the door. It is big enough and then went along the inside of the drivers side and came out right at the battery. For the inside, used the wire chase, up to to cup holder and then down to grommet that the trailer lights exits. Did no have to completely remove the rear bumper, just the drivers side part was separated to access the grommet.

Will have be purchase some clips, broke quite a few of them :(
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
12,146 Posts
Progress Update: Had not luck using the grommet in the middle of the engine bay. Could not figure out where it came in (most likely within the center console). Instead used the opening that is used for the wiring to the door. It is big enough and then went along the inside of the drivers side and came out right at the battery. For the inside, used the wire chase, up to to cup holder and then down to grommet that the trailer lights exits. Did no have to completely remove the rear bumper, just the drivers side part was separated to access the grommet.

Will have be purchase some clips, broke quite a few of them :(
Sometimes Amazon has a decent "Subaru clip bag" for sale that includes most of the fender liner and underside clips. The ones they generally don't have are the green, white or pink slide/push combo clips that are used in the interior in various places. I bought that, and then bought the others as needed from my local dealership (eBay seems a good place as well).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
A update post on the DC to DC battery charger install. Had the opportunity to test out the installation of the DC to DC charger on a 14 day road trip. The installation was successful and the DC to DC charger worked like a charm. I did not have to worry about the state of the battery on the camper at any point, we even had several days without sunshine, within a couple of hours of driving, the battery level was back to 90% charged.

Thank you to everyone who commented and offered advice on this thread.
 

·
Registered
2021 Ascent Premier
Joined
·
36 Posts
A update post on the DC to DC battery charger install. Had the opportunity to test out the installation of the DC to DC charger on a 14 day road trip. The installation was successful and the DC to DC charger worked like a charm. I did not have to worry about the state of the battery on the camper at any point, we even had several days without sunshine, within a couple of hours of driving, the battery level was back to 90% charged.

Thank you to everyone who commented and offered advice on this thread.
This thread is very helpful, along with some others on the topic. I just ordered parts (including clips from Amazon) to do similar project for 30A DC-DC charger so think 6AWG will be adequate. Where exactly is the opening for the wire that you used? Do you have a photo? The hole for the hood release seems small. While looking at it, I spotted a larger opening just above it that I think is the rear window wash fluid tubing. It would come out near the fluid reservoir just below the battery. Running underneath along the drive shaft as someone else reported sounds tempting and maybe easier, but this route along the inside is appealing for the neatness although maybe more work.
Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Audio equipment Automotive design
 

·
Registered
2021 Ascent Premier
Joined
·
36 Posts
Update: I have run positive and negative 6AWG from engine compartment to rear bumper hitch, taking route underneath. It is hard to get good photos, but most of the run is inside the shield plates. Two photos below show the wires going in behind the shield at the front. I pushed a wire fish tape through from front to rear, then pulled the cables from the rear. Where the wires exit from the shield, more or less even with the front of the rear wheel, I made sure to then route it up to avoid any pinch points from the suspension. It seems sufficiently distanced from exhaust and other components; I assumed that anything else hidden behind the shield is OK, and there was no resistance pushing or pulling through there. It then goes easily into the spare tire compartment and comes out next to the 7-way connection. It went easily once I started, and larger wire would be possible. I am waiting for Anderson plugs to complete the connection at the bumper, which I intend to bolt to the plastic frame immediately beneath the 7-way. I will also add some split flexible wire cover in sections.

I am thinking of connecting to the two battery terminals but have seen others recommend a chassis ground point. I have not followed the battery leads to see where that is, and wonder why that would be better.
I will post more photos when completed.

Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Gas Cable Auto part

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Wood Motor vehicle Bumper

Motor vehicle Hood Automotive fuel system Automotive exterior Auto part

Bumper Automotive tire Water Automotive exterior Rim

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Automotive exterior Auto part
 
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
Top