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Discussion Starter #1
My bike rack has a tightening hitch pin which works well in stabilizing the rack in the receiver. I also tow an under 3500lb boat. Would a tightening hitch pin work for the trailer or should I get a u-bolt hitch tightener for towing?

Thanks.
 

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Personally, I would not trust a pin like that. There is the basic shear strength lessened due to the presence of threads, but also, when it's tightened, the trailer pushing left/right on the ball will be putting a large tensile load on the pin because of the clearance between the receiver and ball adapter.

There is the J type anti rattle pin which I think is good but you need another hole in the receiver, and the factory receiver does not have one.

The external type like below doesn't affect the basic strength or integrity of the setup.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Personally, I would not trust a pin like that. There is the basic shear strength lessened due to the presence of threads, but also, when it's tightened, the trailer pushing left/right on the ball will be putting a large tensile load on the pin because of the clearance between the receiver and ball adapter.

There is the J type anti rattle pin which I think is good but you need another hole in the receiver, and the factory receiver does not have one.

The external type like below doesn't affect the basic strength or integrity of the setup.

Yup, my concern was how effective a pin threaded to only one side of the receiver would manage the added stress of the trailer vs a bike rack that only vectors in one plane.

I'm going with this one for one reason. It's made in USA.


I don't tow the boat frequently and usually only a short distance to my ramp but the rattling and banging are annoying enough to make this small investment.
 

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Yeah. Towing with our truck or our older body-on-frame SUV, hitch rattle was never a problem. With our more recent unibody SUVs you can def here the noise loudly transmitted to the cabin.
 

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Personally, I would not trust a pin like that. There is the basic shear strength lessened due to the presence of threads, but also, when it's tightened, the trailer pushing left/right on the ball will be putting a large tensile load on the pin because of the clearance between the receiver and ball adapter.

There is the J type anti rattle pin which I think is good but you need another hole in the receiver, and the factory receiver does not have one.

The external type like below doesn't affect the basic strength or integrity of the setup.

I use an identical anti-rattle thing - works well.
 

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I had that problem on my suburban and I had a buddy in a welding shop so I took it to him and he welded 4 beads , one on each side of the shank (full length) and ground it so that it didn't have such a big wobble. Some shanks fit tighter than others, this one was really loose. Once the wobble was reduced (not gone) I didn't hear anymore noise.
 
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