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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy all,

Can someone who installed the CKE bushings (85d) give a quick blurb on how you installed them? Were your bushings split to slip over the bar like the factory bushing? If not, how on earth did you get it to slip over the bar and into place?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Howdy all,

Can someone who installed the CKE bushings (85d) give a quick blurb on how you installed them? Were your bushings split to slip over the bar like the factory bushing? If not, how on earth did you get it to slip over the bar and into place?
SOLVED: For anyone who may try this in the future, some pointers follow:

First, ALL your sway bar bushings should be cut when they arrive. If not, remove the old bushing you're trying to replace and see how it's cut. Duplicate that. Once that's done, it'll be no problem getting the bushings to fit over the sway bar. In my case, the bushings hadn't been cut and it was a five minute job fixing them once I confirmed I wasn't losing my mind.

Second, when installing the bushings, some things to note: all of the bushings can be replaced without removing any of the wheels from the vehicle. Simply loosening the brackets that hold the bushings in place AFTER you've raised the end of the vehicle you're working on off the ground allows the bar enough wiggle room to provide more than enough space.

If you also decide to install the CVT bushing insert, it's absolutely doable without completely dropping the trans mount crossmember. Loosen the all the bolts and remove the nuts from the center of the post like the instructions tell you, and then simply raise the transmission with a floor jack (put something on it to avoid damaging or scratching the trans case) a quarter inch or so. You should easily be able to look up in the space that creates and see where the bushing insert belongs. Lube that SOB up and force it into place. You'll know when it goes in, because there's a point where the insert just let's go and sinks the rest of the way in. For me, that was done by working in the entire driver side of the bushing, then pressing towards the passenger side to get the rest of it into place.

Feel free to hit me up with any questions you may encounter!
 

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hi I looked up the procedure to change bushings and it says remove center exhaust pipe rear. I can't see in there with the cover so I was wondering did anyone who changed bushings have to remove the center exhaust pipe?
thanks
 

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hi I looked up the procedure to change bushings and it says remove center exhaust pipe rear. I can't see in there with the cover so I was wondering did anyone who changed bushings have to remove the center exhaust pipe?
thanks
I didn't remove anything back there. There was enough room without doing so. @traildogck might be able to give insights.
 

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Does the pipe cover the clamp and prevent torque wrench from getting in there?
I haven't done this job myself before, but the LP Aventure bumper guard installation video seems to correlate with this, yes. If you go to 2:45 in this video, and pause it, you can see the large silver sway bar bracket on the passenger side (left in this video), just beside the rear exhaust manifold port. You can't see the driver side bracket (right on this video), which I presume is directly above that intermediate exhaust pipe that runs down the driver side of the car.
 

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I haven't done this job myself before, but the LP Aventure bumper guard installation video seems to correlate with this, yes. If you go to 2:45 in this video, and pause it, you can see the large silver sway bar bracket on the passenger side (left in this video), just beside the rear exhaust manifold port. You can't see the driver side bracket (right on this video), which I presume is directly above that intermediate exhaust pipe that runs down the driver side of the car.
That certainly explains why I have not installed the front bushings yet.
 

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SOLVED: For anyone who may try this in the future, some pointers follow:

First, ALL your sway bar bushings should be cut when they arrive. If not, remove the old bushing you're trying to replace and see how it's cut. Duplicate that. Once that's done, it'll be no problem getting the bushings to fit over the sway bar. In my case, the bushings hadn't been cut and it was a five minute job fixing them once I confirmed I wasn't losing my mind.
I appologize for not seeing this thread. I also appologize for sending out bushings that were not sliced. People, hit me up by email in my signature if I do not pick up a response here. I'm super busy.

Also, keep in mind, sometimes I cut bushings while they are still somewhat green. Which may allow the cut stick back together. But certainly trying to force it over the "eyes" of the bar will pop it open.

:(
 

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I know this is crazy that i have to do this with a car that only has less than 20 k miles, but the ride is pretty unbearable now so I'm going for the easiest fix. I ordered new bushings and now given their size compared to my wife's other other car- a pathfinder, I see the problem: the bars are too small, and the bushings are to small, plus, they grease them.

i watched the video that hokiefyd referred to and it looks like the pipe must be removed , (This question about pipe removal is listed for the front only in the manual and refers to a short section of the front exhaust pipe called the center exhaust pipe rear because its behind the "center exhaust pipe front"): So can anyone who has changed them tell me, if you want to torque the bushing clamps, them is removal of the exhaust pipe necessary? does anyone know which parts i would need in terms of exhaust book says use a new gasket.
thanks,
andrew
 
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