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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After having wrestled with my Honda Pilot's front fascia/bumper for a horn replacement, I'm not looking forward to pulling the front off of my Ascent just to add some horns.***

Any short-cuts, hacks or workarounds?
 

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Any short-cuts, hacks or workarounds?
I did not need to remove the front fascia of our 2020 model to replace the horns. The driver's side is the easiest. At the most, taking the filler neck out of the washer fluid tank will give you more room...but there's already quite a bit there. The passenger side is a little more difficult and you'll need to remove the air box to do the job (or at least I did). This is not difficult -- the intake "snorkel" that pulls air from the grille area is just unclipped from the radiator support and pulled out of the way. Then unclip the airbox lid (which is the forward section) and lift it completely out of the way. Then there are three bolts to remove the airbox base (as I recall). I think there were two either inside or along the engine side and then another one sort of hidden on the fender side. It's pretty apparent what you need to do to get the box out of there.
 

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I simply mounted my new Hella horns front and center behind the grill, reaching in from the top, without removing anything. To wire, I added a relay and tapped the driver side horn with a double spade connection for signal and added a fused wire off the battery for power. Here's a link to the horns I bought. You can buy it with or without relay. I buy my relays from Bosch. They come with a socket and pigtails.
Amazon Hella horn set

Here's a photo of my front end. The photo was to show the color change of my badge, but you can see the yellow horns behind it. I used the bracket that came with the horns. I found there's enough room to mount and wire without removing anything.
7161


7162
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I simply mounted my new Hella horns front and center behind the grill, reaching in from the top, without removing anything. To wire, I added a relay and tapped the driver side horn with a double spade connection for signal and added a fused wire off the battery for power. Here's a link to the horns I bought. You can buy it with or without relay. I buy my relays from Bosch. They come with a socket and pigtails.
Amazon Hella horn set

Here's a photo of my front end. The photo was to show the color change of my badge, but you can see the yellow horns behind it. I used the bracket that came with the horns. I found there's enough room to mount and wire without removing anything.
Nice.
I have a few questions:
1. Did you fabricate a bracket for the horns?
2. Do you have the part number for the relay? (added on edit: I see a relay is supplied in a "kit" is that one a Bosch?)
3. Where do I locate the driver side signal wire?
4. So you are running the Hella in parallel with the stock horns?
5. Do you have a wiring sketch? I am a newb at wiring a relay.
6. How does it sound?


Thanks!
 

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I know you were asking SkiPro3 about his setup, but I'll follow my post up with the horns I ordered (these Hellas from Amazon). The connectors on those matched the factory ones just fine. RoyBin is right that the connectors on the left and right are different, but only slightly...and both plug just fine into the Hellas that I purchased. Mine sound like a typical old school American car. Each horn is a different note and they sound weak by themselves...but loud together.

Mine sound like these:
 

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Nice.
I have a few questions:
1. Did you fabricate a bracket for the horns?
2. Do you have the part number for the relay? (added on edit: I see a relay is supplied in a "kit" is that one a Bosch?)
3. Where do I locate the driver side signal wire?
4. So you are running the Hella in parallel with the stock horns?
5. Do you have a wiring sketch? I am a newb at wiring a relay.
6. How does it sound?


Thanks!
1. the horns came each with a bracket I used. You can see in the link a photo of the horns with the bracket. It's simply a metal bar with holes in it at each end. A horn mounts and the center mounts to a structure already on the car behind the grill that already has a hole in it.
2. I don't know if the kit is a bosch style relay or not. Here's a link to the one I used. It's for 5 relays, but I use them on other projects. These have sockets and pigtails. I just splice wire on to extend them.
Bosch style relays with sockets
3. Reach down between the radiator and the headlight on the driver side, you can feel/see the horn and connectors. This is a spade lug fitting. I take the hot wire off the horn and add a spade lug piggyback that allows a second spade lug to split off the horn. I take this second lug and attach a wire from it to the relay switch. This voltage activates the relay with very low amount of current. The relay has a wire from the battery, through a fuse that is on the normally open side of the switch. The other side of the switch goes to the new horns. First to the closest horn, then a jumper over to the second horn. This way, I not only power the new horns with it's own power source, but the original horns are still in operation, merely providing a very small amount of current to switch the aftermarket relay. You can find many types of spade piggy back connectors on Amazon. However, any sort of wire tap will work just as well. The piggy back doesn't in any way modify the factory wiring and that's why I used that style.
4. Yes. See my answer in question 3.
5. The link to the Amazon relays have two pictures. One is of the wiring by color and relay terminal number and the other is a schematic showing the relay coil and it's contacts; normally open and normally closed. You should be able to figure out from that. However, here's some instruction by wire color;
BLACK- attach a ring lug and place under any bolt to the body. This is ground. You can use an ohm meter to measure between your bolt and the battery ground to ensure it is indeed ground.
WHITE- attach to the factory horn hot lead. Either use a spade lug piggy back or tap the hot lead wire. Verify it's the hot lead by removing it and attaching a volt meter between this lead and your newly grounded BLACK wire. When you hit the horn in the car, this should indicate 12VDC on the meter and make the passenger side horn sound. You may need someone to assist. The BLACK wire and the WHITE wire will now make the relay click when the horn is sounded. This click is the contacts inside the relay activating. You can also feel the click with your finger on the relay if it's too loud to hear.
BLUE-this wire connects to the car's battery through a fuse. You can buy a fuse pigtail on Amazon. I used this one in the link;
Amazon Fuse Link
There are many other types, but I have a stock of these as well as relays in my garage already. You will need a fuse as well. The horn
RED- to the horn. I wire to the first horn, then jumper to the second
YELLOW-not used

----NOTICE-----

There is a horn wire harness kit you can buy that includes the relay, fuse and all the connections I think. You may find this MUCH easier than buying everything ala carte and assembling yourself.
Horn Wiring Kit

6. It sounds incredibly LOUD! First time I was trying it, I had a wire disconnected. I asked my wife to press the horn when I said as I wiggled wires around. When I found the intermittent connection and the added horns went off, I went deaf for a few minutes! Ha! I then put on my shooter's ear muffs and continued.
 

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You mean removing the grille like this?
7165

I added an air horn for extra emphasis when the horn is necessary. Once all the fasteners are removed the whole bumper cover/grille comes off easily, similar to the rear bumper cover when installing the trailer hitch.
 

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I simply mounted my new Hella horns front and center behind the grill, reaching in from the top, without removing anything. To wire, I added a relay and tapped the driver side horn with a double spade connection for signal and added a fused wire off the battery for power. Here's a link to the horns I bought. You can buy it with or without relay. I buy my relays from Bosch. They come with a socket and pigtails.
Amazon Hella horn set

Here's a photo of my front end. The photo was to show the color change of my badge, but you can see the yellow horns behind it. I used the bracket that came with the horns. I found there's enough room to mount and wire without removing anything.
View attachment 7161

View attachment 7162
Does it still beeping at you? My stock one beeps at me more than other driver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
You mean removing the grille like this?
View attachment 7165
I added an air horn for extra emphasis when the horn is necessary. Once all the fasteners are removed the whole bumper cover/grille comes off easily, similar to the rear bumper cover when installing the trailer hitch.
Thanks for the photo reveal on component locations.

Did your front fascia get scratched laying on the drive? ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I know you were asking SkiPro3 about his setup, but I'll follow my post up with the horns I ordered (these Hellas from Amazon). The connectors on those matched the factory ones just fine. RoyBin is right that the connectors on the left and right are different, but only slightly...and both plug just fine into the Hellas that I purchased. Mine sound like a typical old school American car. Each horn is a different note and they sound weak by themselves...but loud together.

Mine sound like these:
I have some snail horns similar to yours and the yellow Hellas SkiPro3 mentioned. Shootout to follow...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
1. the horns came each with a bracket I used. You can see in the link a photo of the horns with the bracket. It's simply a metal bar with holes in it at each end. A horn mounts and the center mounts to a structure already on the car behind the grill that already has a hole in it.
2. I don't know if the kit is a bosch style relay or not. Here's a link to the one I used. It's for 5 relays, but I use them on other projects. These have sockets and pigtails. I just splice wire on to extend them.
Bosch style relays with sockets
3. Reach down between the radiator and the headlight on the driver side, you can feel/see the horn and connectors. This is a spade lug fitting. I take the hot wire off the horn and add a spade lug piggyback that allows a second spade lug to split off the horn. I take this second lug and attach a wire from it to the relay switch. This voltage activates the relay with very low amount of current. The relay has a wire from the battery, through a fuse that is on the normally open side of the switch. The other side of the switch goes to the new horns. First to the closest horn, then a jumper over to the second horn. This way, I not only power the new horns with it's own power source, but the original horns are still in operation, merely providing a very small amount of current to switch the aftermarket relay. You can find many types of spade piggy back connectors on Amazon. However, any sort of wire tap will work just as well. The piggy back doesn't in any way modify the factory wiring and that's why I used that style.
4. Yes. See my answer in question 3.
5. The link to the Amazon relays have two pictures. One is of the wiring by color and relay terminal number and the other is a schematic showing the relay coil and it's contacts; normally open and normally closed. You should be able to figure out from that. However, here's some instruction by wire color;
BLACK- attach a ring lug and place under any bolt to the body. This is ground. You can use an ohm meter to measure between your bolt and the battery ground to ensure it is indeed ground.
WHITE- attach to the factory horn hot lead. Either use a spade lug piggy back or tap the hot lead wire. Verify it's the hot lead by removing it and attaching a volt meter between this lead and your newly grounded BLACK wire. When you hit the horn in the car, this should indicate 12VDC on the meter and make the passenger side horn sound. You may need someone to assist. The BLACK wire and the WHITE wire will now make the relay click when the horn is sounded. This click is the contacts inside the relay activating. You can also feel the click with your finger on the relay if it's too loud to hear.
BLUE-this wire connects to the car's battery through a fuse. You can buy a fuse pigtail on Amazon. I used this one in the link;
Amazon Fuse Link
There are many other types, but I have a stock of these as well as relays in my garage already. You will need a fuse as well. The horn
RED- to the horn. I wire to the first horn, then jumper to the second
YELLOW-not used

----NOTICE-----

There is a horn wire harness kit you can buy that includes the relay, fuse and all the connections I think. You may find this MUCH easier than buying everything ala carte and assembling yourself.
Horn Wiring Kit

6. It sounds incredibly LOUD! First time I was trying it, I had a wire disconnected. I asked my wife to press the horn when I said as I wiggled wires around. When I found the intermittent connection and the added horns went off, I went deaf for a few minutes! Ha! I then put on my shooter's ear muffs and continued.
Thanks for those links and the information. This forum is a fantastic resource.
 

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I got the Hella SuperTones, kept the OEM to consider reusing, and bought a four horn Cadillac horn set. Currently, running the Hellas. Planning on installing the Caddy horns with a 3 second delay circuit and an "instant" circuit, to be able to use in the middle of nowhere off-roading to attract attention, or in on road emergencies. Mostly, I just tap or double tap my horn in one or two quick bursts, so, the delay circuit should work nicely.
 
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