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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

Anyone have any opinions on a foam gun? I’d like to invest a little into the exterior maintenance if it is effective. I don’t own nor want a power washer.

Just want to know if it is effective to clean “touchless” compared to the old wash bucket and mitt.

I’ve been using Griot’s line of products so if you have others to suggest the foam gun is new to me.



Thanks!
 

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While I have not used a foam gun on my cars I do know a lot of conversation online around them and I think this one on Amazon comes highly recommended.

I have been debating on the same thing and was originally looking at that foam gun that doesn't need a pressure washer but as my I need to pressure wash my front porch I'm now looking at those and getting a foam gun for the pressure washer.

Granted I ordered some The Last Coat stuff and I'm going to try that and see if it protects the paint. I like the fact that I can apply it easier than waxing but I haven't had a chance to coat the car with it yet.
 

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Hi,

Anyone have any opinions on a foam gun? I’d like to invest a little into the exterior maintenance if it is effective. I don’t own nor want a power washer.

Just want to know if it is effective to clean “touchless” compared to the old wash bucket and mitt.

I’ve been using Griot’s line of products so if you have others to suggest the foam gun is new to me.



Thanks!
I also used to have a gas power washer and hated the space it took up. I opted for a highly recommended electric model and have been very impressed. Cost was around $150 and the foam abilities are so much better. Going from a standard hose cannon to a powered model the change was drastic. I’d suggest considering that option but do research on washing. I’ve invested a lot in hand washing and have been very happy with the results. Research 2 bucket method as a very basic approach. If you already know all of this, I’m sorry. I just enjoy talking about hand washing.
 
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I have a chemical brother's foam gun that works with a standard hose - it works ok. I use it as a pre-wash as you still need to wash with mitt to get the dirt and crud off. I would say a 'real' foam gum with power washer probably works better but I just haven't committed to investing in all that just yet.
 

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This is the pressure washer I own which is great. The results are great and the size is fairly compact. There are smaller options too.

AR Blue Clean AR390SS 2000 psi Electric Pressure Washer with Spray Gun, Wand, 30' Hose & 35' Power Cord, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N6XBM64/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xtFvBbCD0Q7FY

This is similar to the foam lance I have

DUSICHIN DUS-007 Jet Wash 1/4" Quick Release Adjustable Snow Foam Lance, Foam Cannon, 5 Pressure Washer Nozzles for Cleaning https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF8E46S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EvFvBbVDJ0KN8

You’ll probably spend $50 on a cannon for the hose.

What’s the main reason you don’t really want a pressure washer? That may help to make the decision.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For me it's primarily the space in the garage it takes up - since my garage is already packed - and I'm on the suburb of a major city, so I don't have a lot of space to play around with. I don't want it to be a tool that ends up in my basement that seldom gets used.

I'll look into the two bucket system. My biggest reason for the foam gun/cannon was to avoid swirl marks. I remember a lot of them from my wife's 09 Legacy which was Black. Would the two bucket system prevent swirls? My understanding was that anytime you have a physical "cloth" or mitt that runs over the paint you have the potential for it.

However, I will say I use the little plastic insert in the bottom of the wash bucket to hopefully keep any nasties at the bottom of the bucket so particulates don't get stuck in my microfiber.

I also blow-dry the car with my leaf blower. LOL.
 

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I should add this:

My Forester is coated with cQuartz professional. Once every couple months I load the lance with Carpro hydro02 foam after a good prewash. I spray the foam on, then power wash the foam off. I then just run the hose over the beaded water and lightly mist carpro reload on the surface and dry. Then once a week or 2 I pressure wash the car with a simple snow foam soap and power wash that off. No need to use a wash mit. All of the dirt beads and washes off. Only touch method is drying.

No hose foam canon will really pull the dirt away from the paint without a good coating applied and maintained.

Griots makes great products and there are many methods and products out there. I use this method to save time and strain on my back. Tomorrow the Ascent gets cQuartz Professional topped with gliss and IGL wheel coating. This should provide a deep gloss and an even smoother surface for beading.
 

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For me it's primarily the space in the garage it takes up - since my garage is already packed - and I'm on the suburb of a major city, so I don't have a lot of space to play around with. I don't want it to be a tool that ends up in my basement that seldom gets used.

I'll look into the two bucket system. My biggest reason for the foam gun/cannon was to avoid swirl marks. I remember a lot of them from my wife's 09 Legacy which was Black. Would the two bucket system prevent swirls? My understanding was that anytime you have a physical "cloth" or mitt that runs over the paint you have the potential for it.

However, I will say I use the little plastic insert in the bottom of the wash bucket to hopefully keep any nasties at the bottom of the bucket so particulates don't get stuck in my microfiber.

I also blow-dry the car with my leaf blower. LOL.
No LOL on the leaf blower. That’s what a lot of people do. As far as the bucket method you should always use 2 with the grit guards. This keeps the dirt in the dirt bucket and the rinse bucket basically clean even with the guards. This will cut down on the swirls.
 

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Since we have hard water here in Florida, I use a leaf blower to dry my car. Otherwise, if I hand dry, I'll have horrible water spots that are practically impossible to remove before I make it all the way around the car.
 

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Since we have hard water here in Florida, I use a leaf blower to dry my car. Otherwise, if I hand dry, I'll have horrible water spots that are practically impossible to remove before I make it all the way around the car.
Reload isn’t as good without an undercoating, but try to check that out. Next time you wash, Mist is on and wipe it in. Then the next wash, you won’t have as much water sticking around to wipe. It has a good hydrophobic property to it for a spray on. You can also try carpro spotless for the water spots if you get them and thy are stubborn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I usually use Turtle Wax spray wax and dry. That seems to work well.

Regarding the dirt guards do I rub the sponge or mitt on the grate when I’m in the rinse bucket?
 

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You'll rub them on the guards in both. I have double grates in both buckets so I don't have to lean in the bucket too much. but yes. Wash with wash bucked from the top down, and rinse about every half/full panel. Then grab the mitt from the rinse bin and rinse with that. That way, the dirty mitt stays in the soap bucket and the rinse pit stays in the rinse bucket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You'll rub them on the guards in both. I have double grates in both buckets so I don't have to lean in the bucket too much. but yes. Wash with wash bucked from the top down, and rinse about every half/full panel. Then grab the mitt from the rinse bin and rinse with that. That way, the dirty mitt stays in the soap bucket and the rinse pit stays in the rinse bucket.
That’s interesting. I don’t use a mitt to rinse, I just spray the hose working in small parts at a time instead of washing the whole car first.

I did watch a video that suggests going back and forth and not circular as the old car waxes wanted you to do.

Looking closely at my 2011 I don’t really see any swirls which is good, but I suppose I didn’t have as good of a technique as I did for my Legacy which showed a bunch.

Does a decent detailer remove them if you get it detailed? I could always do that a every few years too.
 

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That’s interesting. I don’t use a mitt to rinse, I just spray the hose working in small parts at a time instead of washing the whole car first.

I did watch a video that suggests going back and forth and not circular as the old car waxes wanted you to do.

Looking closely at my 2011 I don’t really see any swirls which is good, but I suppose I didn’t have as good of a technique as I did for my Legacy which showed a bunch.

Does a decent detailer remove them if you get it detailed? I could always do that a every few years too.
Yes. A decent detailer can and should get out most imperfections with a polish cleaning by them. There are always shops you can find that do great work but I suggest looking around on local Subaru or car enthusiast pages. I have found an amazing detailer who works out of his pwn garage and charges a lot less than shops. He has worked on all kinds of cars... must more $$$ than what I bring him, but he remembers me and my vehicles every time I reach out. XTCdetail is who I use in Chicago.

https://www.facebook.com/XTCDetail/

If you can find a guy like Alex... you're in luck! He applies my coatings and he showed me how to properly maintain them. Ive saved a lot of money using him and following his techniques over car wash chains.
 

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Does the leaf blower thing work well. I picked up a Stihl this year and use it more than I thought. This would be one more good use...never even thought of it.
Meh...not as effective as those on the automatic car wash stations.
I mostly use it when I'm done with the hand drying portion and just try to blow out some of the water from the side mirrors and other areas where water tends to sit.
 
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