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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was hoping to get input on drop hitches. I have a conundrum picking between two in particular units. I have the stock 6" drop and a Curt 4" drop.

Basically the 6" drop is a bit low for my trailer by my estimation, as the tail of the trailer sits about 1.5" higher than the front. I'm thinking that means I'm about 3/4" low up front? The Curt is close to level, or maybe 0.5" high. Their lengths differ, with the Curt sticking out an additional 2.5".

I am going to be combining this with a Rigid Armor hitch mounted spare tire rack which pushes the pin out an additional 7". From pin to receiver on the stock Subaru hitch would be 14.5", while the Curt drop would be 17".

My question is this; do you think I am better off with a trailer pointing a bit down from level and being 2.5" closer, or a trailer that's level but 2.5" further away?

My trailer is typical 1500-1800 lbs by my estimation, and I run at 10% tongue weight, or 150-180lbs. As of now I was leaning towards using the stock unit as pointing down slightly should move my center of gravity forward and improve control, but I'm still torn. Thanks in advance for any advice or input!
 

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This would suit all of your needs. It is very solid, and very heavy. There are some aluminum versions that may work as well, but I don't have any experience with them (others in the towing section recommended one of them as a lighter option).

3638
 

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In general, the drop for a ball mount is predicated by the specific hitch height of the trailer you intend to pull. For the Ascent, the OEM 6" drop that shipped with many MY19 Ascents put the ball height at ~18-19" which is perfect for some trailers and way, way off for others. You actually have to measure and do a little math to arrive at the right combination. An adjustable ball mount like Robert shows is a nice alternative to multiple ball mounts if you have more than one trailer you'll be towing.
 

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Pulling a number of trailers with several different vehicles, I just use one of an assortment of ball mounts that I acquired over the years. I haven't be too anal about having the trailer perfectly level. e.g. 2" diff front to rear means the front is 1" too far one way and the rear 1" the other. That aint much.
 

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This has been a really helpful thread. any good resources on the “math” referenced in this Thread? We’re awaiting delivery of a 2021 wolf pup 16BHS camper trailer so hoping to get smarter so I know what to look for when it comes.
Questions:
  1. Reliable resources of the “math” (1 inch higher in back is X too low in front)?
  2. Other rules of thumb on leveling/ what to look for does frame need to be parallel?
  3. Anyone have perspective on how much we should expect the ascent to “sag” even with with a tow that is well within the towing specs? (I’ve had rear sag with having bags of mulch in the back
if useful this will be what I’m towing (pre camping stuff)
Hitch Weight: 377 lb.
GVWR: 3877 lb.
UVW 3097 lb.
CCC 780 lb
 

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The math is simple addition and subtraction. Determine the ball height required for the trailer to be level and then figure out what drop is required to get that on the Ascent side, knowing that a 6" drop provides an 18-19" ball height. If you need 20-21" ball height for the trailer, you need a 4" drop on the ball mount. If you need 16-17" on the trailer for it to be level, you need an 8" drop on the ball mount. A quality adjustable like Robert shows can be very helpful, especially if you tow more than one trailer and don't want to have separate ball mounts, unless, of course, they use different ball sizes.
 
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@Jim_in_PA the way I read it they were looking for a formula to equate how far the rear end of the trailer would move up and down as the hitch height changes. I cant be doing trigonometry without much more coffee...
 

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@Jim_in_PA the way I read it they were looking for a formula to equate how far the rear end of the trailer would move up and down as the hitch height changes. I cant be doing trigonometry without much more coffee...
It aint trig. Just simple proportionality. Rear of trailer height change = -ball height change X (Distance from trailer axle to rear of trailer)/(Distance from ball to trailer axle)

So, say rear to axle is 8' and ball to axle is 12' . Then the rear will change by -8/12 = -2/3 of whatever the ball height changes. Raise the ball 3" and the rear will drop 2"
 

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It aint trig. Just simple proportionality. Rear of trailer height change = -ball height change X (Distance from trailer axle to rear of trailer)/(Distance from ball to trailer axle)

So, say rear to axle is 8' and ball to axle is 12' . Then the rear will change by -8/12 = -2/3 of whatever the ball height changes. Raise the ball 3" and the rear will drop 2"
Or you can just put the trailer onto a flat concrete slab and measure the distance between the frame and ground at points at the rear of the trailer and the front of the trailer. Use the jack to get the numbers equal. Then measure the coupler height from ground. No math needed.
 

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^^^ I was merely responding on the query of how to calculate it. But that works too. Not only do you not need trig, you don't even have to divide. You do it with your muscles instead of your brain. That's probably be the way I'd do it anyway, level it with the jack and measure it.

I'm old-school and I prefer to refer to addition, subtraction, multiplication and division as arithmetic rather than math.
 

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I'm kinda a "keep it simple and stupid" kind of person for this kind of thing. :) Flat surface. Level trailer. Measure expected ball height. Figure out appropriate drop for ball mount.
 
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I'm kinda a "keep it simple and stupid" kind of person for this kind of thing. :) Flat surface. Level trailer. Measure expected ball height. Figure out appropriate drop for ball mount.
I'm a "cheat and get an adjustable drop hitch, and adjust as needed" kinda guy, lol!

Joking aside, with as much as 800 pounds of water, or zero, I find it comes in handy when leveling each trip.
 

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Joking aside, with as much as 800 pounds of water, or zero, I find it comes in handy when leveling each trip.
This is a really good point relative to a travel trailer and good justification for the adjustable ball height for sure.
 
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This is a really good point relative to a travel trailer and good justification for the adjustable ball height for sure.
We have the advantages/disadvantages of having really large tanks on a sub 5,000 pound trailer. I don't generally see 18 footers with a hundred gallons of tanks.
 

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Don't forget to take in the distance that the suspension will drop when the trailer is connected. As I recall mine dropped 1 1/2" with 300 lbs of tongue weight. So with a 4" drop The bottom of the ball was at 18 1/2" and not 20" when the trailer was connected.
Absolutely correct. could sink even farther once you fill up with gas and load the 3rd row/trunk

now we're getting into calculus territory... 😉
 

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Yup, with my recent Memorial Day trailer rental, I had ssked them the height to bottom of the cup, and armed with a 20" measurement I showed up with my 2" drop ball mount. But with the compression of the rear suspension, I had to borrow a 1" rise ball mount to get it level (Guessing we were right at the full 500lb tongue limit.)
F.S.
 

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Where did you manage to rent a trailer from? my usual place is closed...
www.adventurekt.com
in San Diego / El Cajon CA. I highly recommend them.

When San Diego County started loosening up access to state parks a week before Memorial Day, I noticed that a bunch of RV parks were showing open (with limited reservations). By the time I called for a trailer rental a few days into the flurry, they were very busy. I was glad to make them busier!

F.S.
 
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