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My wife killed our 2020’s battery yesterday by leaving the hatch open for about 6 hours, so the TSB posted earlier definitely doesn’t fix the issue on ALL 2020 cars.

Super frustrating.
 

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My wife killed our 2020’s battery yesterday by leaving the hatch open for about 6 hours, so the TSB posted earlier definitely doesn’t fix the issue on ALL 2020 cars.

Super frustrating.
Maybe not, but SOA should be brought into it, not only to assist you but to figure out a more robust solution.
 

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The TSB says, it fixes excessive "dark draw." It's not clear to me that means with the gate open. It could just mean draw when the gate is closed and the vehicle parked. It'd be cool if someone with the new controller could put an ammeter on the battery cable and verify what the TG open current draw is. I'll do it, but at this rate, it'll be a while before I get the new controller put in.
 

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Can anyone who's had this TSB performed and who also previously had trouble with a dead battery verify if the problem is fixed?
 

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Can anyone who's had this TSB performed and who also previously had trouble with a dead battery verify if the problem is fixed?
So far, I've seen:
  • One person reported it fixed the issue per dealership tests, who registered a 0.3a draw.
  • One person reported no further issues, but had no test data to report.
  • One person reported the same 4a draw after the update, but wanted to retest because they didn't have time to let the time out take effect, and they'd tested immediately after opening the gate.
I'm looking forward to more people reporting what they've experienced.
 

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Can anyone who's had this TSB performed and who also previously had trouble with a dead battery verify if the problem is fixed?
I’d love to know if I’m wrong, but I believe the problem continues to exist. There is a work-around using a small plastic latch cover that fools the hatch into thinking it has latched. See Nick’s post and video on the Subaru Ascent Dead Battery Club, on Facebook.
 

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So far, I've seen:
  • One person reported it fixed the issue per dealership tests, who registered a 0.3a draw.
  • One person reported no further issues, but had no test data to report.
  • One person reported the same 4a draw after the update, but wanted to retest because they didn't have time to let the time out take effect, and they'd tested immediately after opening the gate.
I'm looking forward to more people reporting what they've experienced.
I just had the new controller put in and the dealer tested the draw afterwards and it was 4ah when the hatch was opened. how long would the time out be? i'm just using the carabiner and that works fine to cut the draw.
 

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I just had the new controller put in and the dealer tested the draw afterwards and it was 4ah when the hatch was opened. how long would the time out be? i'm just using the carabiner and that works fine to cut the draw.
Someone else suggested 10 minutes - I've also heard 20. I'm still on my original first run controller, and been meaning to test mine, but, on nights I have time (like tonight), it's either raining or wind and rain... I need a garage, lol! But, either way, mine probably won't respond the same as the newest revision (and apparently, dealerships frown upon trying to take apart their showroom cars to test). :ROFLMAO:
 

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Someone else suggested 10 minutes - I've also heard 20. I'm still on my original first run controller, and been meaning to test mine, but, on nights I have time (like tonight), it's either raining or wind and rain... I need a garage, lol! But, either way, mine probably won't respond the same as the newest revision (and apparently, dealerships frown upon trying to take apart their showroom cars to test). :ROFLMAO:
what exactly is a time out? Is that the time it takes for that rear light to go off? i'm wondering if I should spend the $40 to get an ammeter and test it myself? and if I do get one, would i let the hatch open for 20 mins before testing or just open hatch, put on the ammeter and watch the amps drop?
 

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Hey Robert,

Is there a repair procedure for this TSB? If it doesn't involve reprogramming of the module(s)/computer, I may have to buy this module and install it myself. Last time at the dealer getting the recalls done, I gave the tech the printout of the auto-doorlock TSB and he came back later and said since it has "SOA" printed on it, he wouldn't be able to find the TSB here in Canada so couldn't do anything for me (unless I can find something with "SOC" printed). I'm not sure if he actually checked on their computer or was just being lazy and assumed so as soon as he saw SOA on it.

Also, are you aware of Canadian TSB database and how TSBs are performed for the Canadian market?
im from Canada and my dealer replaced mine under the TSB. Those TABs are from Subaru and not country specific.
 

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im from Canada and my dealer replaced mine under the TSB. Those TABs are from Subaru and not country specific.
Thank you. Finally a useful input regarding this matter. Did you have to print out the TSB to show them or just asked them about it?
 

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My dealer was well aware of the tailgate and battery issues and was also aware of the TSB. He said it’s the first thing they do to correct the issue.
 

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I will add to this thread's anecdotal reportage of open back hatch battery drain. Yesterday on my Touring, assembled February '20, I opened the hatch and hood, and hour by hour measured the battery's voltage decline. It didn't drop much; only 1/100 volt per hour (12.75, 12.74, etc.). I kept my fob away. Later, I will repeat this test with fob within car, and finally measure amp draw. It seems there is a range present among our Subes, of how quickly our batteries discharge.
 

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Like @garagenut66 I’m using today to check my battery. I’m going camping this weekend so I had the dealer check my battery yesterday. They said my battery tested good but I’m not confident they did any testing with the tailgate open so I’m doing it myself for peace of mind.
I don’t have a DC ammeter so I’m just going by voltage. I’ll check back here tonight with my numbers. Everything is off, doors closed with the exception of a short time testing all my lights, and the fob is far away.
 

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-.05v/hr with tailgate open. Started at 12.3v. I’d get nervous letting it get below 12v.
Any insight how much drain that equates to?
 

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-.05v/hr with tailgate open. Started at 12.3v. I’d get nervous letting it get below 12v.
Any insight how much drain that equates to?
I think your best bet is going to be to buy a $40 ammeter to test it. Otherwise, familiarize yourself with the carabiner workaround fix. Join the Subaru Ascent Dead Battery Club for more information.
 

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^^^ def. You can't go by battery voltage as the discharge curve is pretty flat. Get a clamp on DC Amp capable meter. Here's an example, though I don't have this one. You just clamp the jaw around the wire (ground or +12). There's no need to make electrical connections.

 

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I think your best bet is going to be to buy a $40 ammeter to test it.
I finally did and it arrived today so I did some quick testing.

With my liftgate open I was seeing about 2.3A on battery negative cable which was easier to get the clamp around. This continued for an hour and a half.
I put a carabiner in the liftgate latch and still measured 2.3A for the next hour. Then I manually closed the liftgate and reopened it with the carabiner in and watched the current drop immediately down to about 1.7A, then slowly down to .1A over the next 30 seconds or so. Just to be sure I reset everything, repeated, and observed the same results.

While its not a complete fix, I can live with this solution and be confident I'm not going to drain the battery with the liftgate open now. Yay!
 
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