Some others have posted pics of their strut install.
Posting my install using 2019 Forester struts.
Here's the ebay link
listing title:
Engine Hood Lift Support Shock Strut Damper 2pcs For Subaru Forester 2019
link:
FIt for Subaru Forester 2019. Easy installation. Made in an ISO 9001 facility to ensure High quality.
www.ebay.com
Comes with 2 struts and mounting kit. L brackets to mount to the top hood hinge bolt, and then another ball screw which you will need to drill a small hole for on the frame behind the headlight.
When drilling the hole, I started with a smaller bit, I used a small piece of metal (an old license plate) to put behind the metal to prevent from accidentally drilling into the back of the headlight housing. After the pilot hole, switched up to a larger hole.
The hardest part of the install is getting the nut held in place as there is very little room to fit your fingers behind the frame. you can try a low profile socket, a magnet, or maybe your wife or kids fingers. But what worked for me was to wrap some tape sticky side out on a finger and then stick the nut to a finger tip to get it lined up behind the hole. Once you got the nut threaded, grab your 12mm wrench to tighten it up and you're good to go.
I had help from my grandpa but you can probably do this by yourself if you do the driver side first, because I found that one of these struts was enough to hold up the hood then you can let down the prop and do the passenger side.
That's better.
The 2015 Forester had a hood strut, I can't believe a 45K SUV doesn't include hood struts, maybe in the 2021.
Yes, please post detail photos of where the holes are drilled.
Also, I see the eBay listing says, 'best offer'. Did you make an offer and if so, how much?
I wonder if a blind jack-nut would work where you had trouble installing that nut;
The picture with me holding my metal license plate shows right where I drilled it. The hole location I chose 1 because I liked the hood height there but 2 if you notice in that license plate photo, any further forward and I would have to drill 2 layers of frame, and any further back and I wouldn't be able to get my finger behind the hole to hold the nut.
You can also just lift up the hood to the height you want it, then measure from that hood hinge bolt to somewhere along that frame and then try to find a strut that length. I believe the distance is around 24-26inches but I could measure exact and find out. Only thing that I wish was different was I believe these are just cheap generic brand struts, I would have liked to find some oem outback or forester struts with the blue subaru logo. I may swap those in a few years if these ever go bad or if I find a cheap set but for now these look great.
I paid the buy it now price I think of 35 just because I wanted to get it done asap but if you think hell take 25 or 30 go for it and let us know.
Before I found that Ebay listing with L brackets included, I was just going to buy my own L bracket from lowes for the same effect.
Perhaps it’s just me - but other than the struts being a neat extra - I don’t see the big issue. then again I don’t open the good often. So for me it’s mostly out of sight out of mind. I also still remember an older hatchback that clonked me on the head when the struts wore out.
Is there any other benefit to these that I’m missing?
Perhaps it’s just me - but other than the struts being a neat extra - I don’t see the big issue. then again I don’t open the good often. So for me it’s mostly out of sight out of mind. I also still remember an older hatchback that clonked me on the head when the struts wore out.
Is there any other benefit to these that I’m missing?
Obviously it only matters when you're under the hood but for me that's every oil change (3k between dealer's free 6k changes), spark plugs, air filter, and anything with the battery, jumping, disconnecting, etc. Plus it just looks more premium. This is a touring but the prop rod cheapens the look.
When your strut dropped a hood on your head, did both struts die at the same time??
To me, the big issue is I can see the hood flex at the point the simple rod attaches. I do not like to see that sort of stress on metal parts, especially painted metal parts. It's not good over the long run. I also do not like how the hood now closes; have to drop the hood with it's full weight, BAM!, to get it to close.
Perhaps it’s just me - but other than the struts being a neat extra - I don’t see the big issue. then again I don’t open the good often. So for me it’s mostly out of sight out of mind. I also still remember an older hatchback that clonked me on the head when the struts wore out.
Is there any other benefit to these that I’m missing?
It's not a "big" issue but it is an issue nonetheless. There are a number of reasons why struts are better. It's awkward and uncomfortable to have to lift and hold up a heavy, unsupported hood with one hand while reaching for and trying to engage the support rod with the other. This is especially true if you have any physical issues. If the support rod is not properly engaged or somehow knocked loose, the hood can slam down on your head or fingers. If you make the mistake of closing the hood without properly stowing the support rod, you can deform and damage the very expensive hood.
Support rods are clunky and very outdated low tech whereas struts are elegant and far more modern. Even much older cars used to at least use springs to hold up the hood. The simplistic hood support rod dates back to the 1800s. This is 2019.
Additionally, it's simply much nicer to have the hood easily raise and stay up on its own in one simple operation, just as power windows are much better than crank windows. You just expect such niceties on a car in this price range. Skimping on and living without such basic conveniences should only occur on economy cars where you expect less functionality in return for a much cheaper price, but certainly not on a car in the $40K range.
If this can be resolved with a set of $35 struts, then that's a great solution.
I vote for electric struts operable with the remote like on the rear hatch. Having to raise the hood to refill the washer fluid has gotten to be a chore. The thing I'd be worried about though is the fender pad exudations contaminating or otherwise compromising the struts.
Kidding. I'm in the happy with the rod camp. I believe the rod to be impervious to said exudations.
The rods I installed do not need raising. Simply unlatch, then slightly lift up from lowered position and they will raise the hood themselves with no additional aid. As for flex at the mounting point, there is none. My mounts are made of solid aluminum, and not thin sheet. These brackets were originally made to hold compact music equipment such and amps, control units, mixers, etc. If you know anything about professional stage music equipment then you’ll know these units are compact, but can weigh upwards of 100 lbs. and with the expense of said equipment sometimes exceeding $1000 there is nothing that is designed to allow flexing or weakness in holding them in place. In fact most of these brackets are usually made from high grade steel from Germany and such. I recently tried drilling a slip of steel of this material, only one hole. I went through every drill bit I had, up to cobalt and diamond tipped grinders using cutting oil and I only managed to make a tiny divot. I ultimately used a bit designed to cut porcelain before I made any headway. So needless to say these brackets will not flex, bend or sway. Of course in the beginning I experimented with thinner lighter brackets, and yes these did flex at the mounting point. That’s why I switched over to these brackets. I have numerous types and shapes of brackets but I was lucky to find these aluminum ones in my collection. The only pair I had. As I stated previously, you can probably find these long L brackets at a professional music equipment store like Sam ash or guitar center. Just go look at the brackets for the music equipment racks. I’m positive they will have something like it if not the same ones.
to Luis and ski pro, the holes you can use are already there. I recently learned that these additional holes that rail are additional mounting holes for the support rod for different hood heights. Just install the hood end onto an L brackets at the hinge. I placed my bracket on top of the hinge brackets, then depending on how high you want the hood, choose which hole to use and install the ball joint and connect the strut. Viola...you are done
to Luis and ski pro, the holes you can use are already there. I recently learned that these additional holes that rail are additional mounting holes for the support rod for different hood heights. Just install the hood end onto an L brackets at the hinge. I placed my bracket on top of the hinge brackets, then depending on how high you want the hood, choose which hole to use and install the ball joint and connect the strut. Viola...you are done
Ah sorry, I got confused which post I was in. In another post regarding hood strut supports I had described my method of adding hood struts to my ascent using some parts I had laying around and struts from my mdx. Again sorry for the confusion.
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