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Yea, not sure. Mine was on cruise as well. Most times I hit up on the paddle and the rpms drop, then it changes back to the higher rpms.
 

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I forgot to mention that for me upshifting while in D does nothing to the rpms.

I wonder what's different?
Upshifting twice?

If it's in "D" then the first shift just enables a fake gear.
 

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Any significant source of resistance can cause "optimum" at highway speeds to be something less than the highest ratio. Tires inflated to spec?
F.S.
 

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Upshifting twice?

If it's in "D" then the first shift just enables a fake gear.
Ok,I checked this again today several times with the same results: at 70mph in D, I manual upshifted twice and the rpms didn't change either time, the D changed to 8 with a down arrow beside it then switched back to D after a second or two.

I don't know if that's good or bad but that's how it works now. 😀
 

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Ok,I checked this again today several times with the same results: at 70mph in D, I manual upshifted twice and the rpms didn't change either time, the D changed to 8 with a down arrow beside it then switched back to D after a second or two.

I don't know if that's good or bad but that's how it works now. 😀
There's only 8 simulated gears, so, if it shows an "8", then there's nowhere else to go.
If you have the drivegrain under more load (accelerating or climbing a hill), it will remain in the fake gear longer. Otherwise, it will pretty quickly shift back.

Try at a slower speed where it will start in 6 or 7 (or lower) and then pull the lever a second time to upshift, and you will notice RPM's respond accordingly, and the fake gear indicator will increment by one.
 

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There's only 8 simulated gears, so, if it shows an "8", then there's nowhere else to go.
If you have the drivegrain under more load (accelerating or climbing a hill), it will remain in the fake gear longer. Otherwise, it will pretty quickly shift back.

Try at a slower speed where it will start in 6 or 7 (or lower) and then pull the lever a second time to upshift, and you will notice RPM's respond accordingly, and the fake gear indicator will increment by one.
Yes, thanks. I guess I wasn't being clear about what I was checking, that it is indeed running in the highest possible gear at highway speeds. And getting the best gas mileage.
 

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Just came here to share that I can confirm, putting my ascent in manual M mode at highway speeds over 65 and paddle shifting up to 8 results in a drop of about 500rpm, from about 2000 in automatic drive to 1500rpm in manual 8, at around 65mph. The mileage jumps from about 23 to closer to 27. Try it on your next long highway leg.
 

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I've noticed that as well, sometimes the CVT doesn't 'upshift' all the way. Although it happens much less frequently now.

Most of you long-termers know my gripes about the gas mileage, but I managed 25.5mpg at 68 mph over the weekend on a highway trip to check out some schools for one of my kids. This was averaged on a round trip, little to no traffic, and I hit the reset as soon as I got on the highway and stopped it as soon as I exited the highway in each direction, so it's strictly highway mileage.

This is the second time in about three weeks that I've hit 25mpg highway. So for all of you struggling, there may be hope (most of my highway trips over the last year were averaging low 20's at best). My overall is still in the 18s, as I approach 12,000 miles on the car.
 

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^^ Interesting..
I can confirm this. I was getting sub-par MPG and recently started driving in manual mode. My MPG increased from about 21 to over 25 (highway). I currently have 1800 miles on my Ascent so I think it'll only get better now. There is definitely something screwy with the CVT because it likes to hang out in "7th gear" for WAY too long. Personally, I think it's the heavy vehicle and the turbo causing a lot of issues
 

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I can confirm this. I was getting sub-par MPG and recently started driving in manual mode. My MPG increased from about 21 to over 25 (highway). I currently have 1800 miles on my Ascent so I think it'll only get better now. There is definitely something screwy with the CVT because it likes to hang out in "7th gear" for WAY too long. Personally, I think it's the heavy vehicle and the turbo causing a lot of issues
Also for people with low miles, dont know if you did a break in oil change but I did one at 500mi and again at 3k on the wifes new ascent. Noticed a jump in mpg after getting the factory oil out and replaced with 0w20 full synthetic. I didnt grab exact figures so this is just anecdotal evidence but watch for a couple more mpg jump after your break in.

As for your complaint about the weight and turbo, I think the CVT likes to keep the RPMs up so that the turbo has less lag and is ready to boost. It's a trade off though in MPGs. I like having the power ready to go. Just be smart about it. If you're about to pass someone or merge onto a different highway, shift it down.
 

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Also for people with low miles, dont know if you did a break in oil change but I did one at 500mi and again at 3k on the wifes new ascent. Noticed a jump in mpg after getting the factory oil out and replaced with 0w20 full synthetic. I didnt grab exact figures so this is just anecdotal evidence but watch for a couple more mpg jump after your break in.
That's actually not recommended for new vehicles anymore (even Scotty agrees). The engine oil in new cars is a special blend that helps break in the vehicle. It should be left in there for about 6000 miles
 

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As for your complaint about the weight and turbo, I think the CVT likes to keep the RPMs up so that the turbo has less lag and is ready to boost. It's a trade off though in MPGs.
This x1,000

The logic in the CVT really screws things up. As other threads have mentioned, going up hills with little throttle yields stupid high rpms. There is zero reason for it if you are just cruising along. I have had it where I start to go up a hill and the more I let off the gas to try and get the rpms to drop the higher the rpms went. In the end I just go manual and jam them down, zero issue going up the hill, less rpms and better mpg.

Because the turbo is so quick to jump in I wish there was a way to just disable it on the fly. With the sensitive throttle there is only so much you can do with your foot, and because the CVT is so quick to go from "95 year old Sunday drive" mode to "you must be racing a 17 year old with a Folgers can under the rear", it's very challenging.
 

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Also for people with low miles, dont know if you did a break in oil change but I did one at 500mi and again at 3k on the wifes new ascent.
Should not be done. It shouldn't be changed until 6,000 miles. It's break in oil, and intended to stay for the whole 6,000 mile interval.
 

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Am getting 12-16 mpg on street 18-24 on freeway here in San Diego Ca. I've done all maintenance through dealership since I bought mine back in July 2018. Did the mileage test at the pump where I calculate how many gallons were filled verses how many miles driven. Recently fixed the 3 recalls that popped up early JAN2020 but to no avail I still get this horrible mpg. Was told I have a heavy foot but I can assure you I don't I drive around with my 3 kids 90% of the time and I feel like I drive more like a grandma. Did take it in to dealership where I bought it at (local Subaru dealer) service mgr conducted drive test on freeway in cruise control for 60 miles (30 miles out and back) and recorded 27-29 mpg but when I asked about street testing it was told that since it read the correct mpg on freeway it's irrevalant to test on street. Idk but not happy getting under 275 miles on a full tank. I do own a 14' forester and did have a 15' crosstrek that I traded in for Ascent and their mpg were pretty spot on. Am I out of options with this problem?
 

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Should not be done. It shouldn't be changed until 6,000 miles. It's break in oil, and intended to stay for the whole 6,000 mile interval.
OK, I have a question. I had a service appt with the Dealer because the factory oil level was approx. 1/2” above the fill line on my 2020 Ascent. They agreed the oil level was too high and they decided to drain and replace the oil while they had it in the shop. This was at 600 miles on the odometer. So what you are saying, this should not have been done? Should I worry about this?
 

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OK, I have a question. I had a service appt with the Dealer because the factory oil level was approx. 1/2” above the fill line on my 2020 Ascent. They agreed the oil level was too high and they decided to drain and replace the oil while they had it in the shop. This was at 600 miles on the odometer. So what you are saying, this should not have been done? Should I worry about this?
No, that's fine. They did it for a reason. I wouldn't worry about it at all.
 

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Am getting 12-16 mpg on street 18-24 on freeway here in San Diego Ca. I've done all maintenance through dealership since I bought mine back in July 2018. Did the mileage test at the pump where I calculate how many gallons were filled verses how many miles driven. Recently fixed the 3 recalls that popped up early JAN2020 but to no avail I still get this horrible mpg. Was told I have a heavy foot but I can assure you I don't I drive around with my 3 kids 90% of the time and I feel like I drive more like a grandma. Did take it in to dealership where I bought it at (local Subaru dealer) service mgr conducted drive test on freeway in cruise control for 60 miles (30 miles out and back) and recorded 27-29 mpg but when I asked about street testing it was told that since it read the correct mpg on freeway it's irrevalant to test on street. Idk but not happy getting under 275 miles on a full tank. I do own a 14' forester and did have a 15' crosstrek that I traded in for Ascent and their mpg were pretty spot on. Am I out of options with this problem?
It's not so much about having a heavy foot, if I drive "normally" I get around 15-20 mpg. To get 23-26 mpg+ you need to develop a feel for when the car is using more power than it really needs and then lighten up on the pedal and give it only just the power it needs to smoothly move through traffic. You can use the linear mpg dash gauge for this, that is a very good indicator. This is not necessarily intuitive or easy, you have to train yourself to do this and it takes a while. After a year of playing with it, I can now get 23-26 mpg whenever I want, and that's urban and suburban driving. 23-24 mpg in the winter and 26+ mpg the rest of the year (due to seasonal fuel formulations). If I go back to driving normally, the mpg sinks like a stone.

The Ascent responds very well to this method and is perfectly drivable doing it if you want great mpg. Most of the time, my foot is barely on the pedal.
 
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