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Discussion Starter #1
Those of you who've replaced the dash tweeters, what size replacement tweeter fits in there? I've got tons of options for tweets but I'd rather not futz too much with modifying things to make them fit. Thanks.
 

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I think it's a 3.5" but its very sallow because it hits a air duct. I just installed the H631SFJ101 factory kicker kit. It's a little short so only used 1 screw but it was plug and play. I posted pictures in a tread I started about it.
 

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Wanna get creative ,you can make your own mounting bracket from 1/8” ABS plastic sheet ,matching the shape then cut out holes for the bolts and aftermarket tweeter.Then get the value of the OEM capacitor(or if possible reuse the OEM capacitor)solder it to the proper terminal and bam you’re done.There’s tons of tweeter selections on Part Express along with capacitors.
 

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Wanna get creative ,you can make your own mounting bracket from 1/8” ABS plastic sheet ,matching the shape then cut out holes for the bolts and aftermarket tweeter.Then get the value of the OEM capacitor(or if possible reuse the OEM capacitor)solder it to the proper terminal and bam you’re done.There’s tons of tweeter selections on Part Express along with capacitors.
Yup, or using a 3d printer would be ideal (good excuse to get an inexpensive printer). In my last car I just used metal strapping to mount my tweeters. I have a hunch that TheLex will be using a more sophisticated outboard crossover as opposed to a single capacitor.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-TAyuFVevWAR/p_120BKSTRAP/Universal-Back-Strap.html
 

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Yup straps will work too but either the tweeter cup needs a hole to be fastened to strap(can be drilled out to size) or the tweeter itself have the screw at the bottom ,with washers if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm leaning towards the Morel 692 speakers right now. I had ordered a set of Focal K2 Power 165KRC 6.5" coaxials, but our speaker pods are way down low on the door. The Morels are a component set so the 6x9 mid-bass driver will be in the door, while the 1" silk dome tweeters will go in the dash.

I had originally though a metal strap would be ideal to hold the tweeter in place. However as you can see from the photo of the tweeter, there's no place to safely drill a hole. Ideally I'd have the back of the tweeter scanned and a custom mount printed. But I don't have that capability and I'm sure that would drive up the costs quite a bit.


The Morels do come with crossovers, but I'm going to run the system active. IOW I'm going to use an outboard DSP to handle the crossover over duty, timing, etc. I'm leaning towards the Mini C-DSP 6x8 right now: https://www.minidsp.com/products/car-audio-dsp/c-dsp-6x8

It's a bit misnamed because it has 4 high level (speaker level out from the head unit) inputs, and 8 RCA outputs to the amps. I'd grab two of the speaker level outputs from the head unit (unless it has low level line out). Then I'd output to the front tweeters, mid-bass, rear coaxials, and then a subwoofer. The unit plays well with REW real time analysis software but it will be a learning curve for me to set the parameters correctly.

The other DSP I'm considering is the Helix Mini DSP. This is a high end German brand that gets rave reviews, but it's another $150 or so more than the above unit. This unit however only has 6 outputs. Problem is, we have 6 speakers in the vehicle, and I'd like to install a subwoofer. This means that in order to use the Helix, I'd have to run the system with just the front mid-bass/tweeters and then the subwoofer, eliminating the rear channel. A lot of folks advocate not using the rear channels anyway since they mess up the soundstaging.

I'm am leaning towards the Stereo Integrity 12" BM Mk V shallow mount subwoofer, but it's on backorder right now. I'm trying to find out when they will have stock. Otherwise I could use the JL 12TW3 D-4 driver for about the same price. I'd prefer the more musical Stereo Integrity, but JL makes a find sub as well.

So that's where it stand right now. LOTS of research and planning.
 

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Audio Frog is another brand to look at for subs,decent sensitivity and small enclosure requirements.Morels are excellent speakers,they have a laid back SQ sound mainly because of the paper cones used for the woofers.I find the Focals to be more in your face sounding,which is not a bad thing and can be tamed with some EQ’ing.

The Lex you got your work cutout for you,best of luck with the install.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Audio Frog is another brand to look at for subs,decent sensitivity and small enclosure requirements.Morels are excellent speakers,they have a laid back SQ sound mainly because of the paper cones used for the woofers.I find the Focals to be more in your face sounding,which is not a bad thing and can be tamed with some EQ’ing.

The Lex you got your work cutout for you,best of luck with the install.
Thanks.

I realize this is going to be a lot of work. I spend a lot of time in home audio however, and I find that really bright speakers with metal dome tweeters tend to drive me out of the room. So I'm going with the Morels because they're silk dome tweeters. The Audiofrogs are even nicer but they're double the money.

Interestingly I also have a set of Stereo Integrity TM65 mid-bass and M25 tweeters on order. I'm not sure if I'll use them for the my truck or the Subie.
 

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Silk do have the right timbre for my ears,aluminums or titanium’s can really do a job on yours ears especially in a car environment (worst place for proper imaging w/o alot of time put in).Implementation,placement,equipment and tuning are all the tools needed for a proper install.Many ppl who don’t know better would replace this ,replace that then wonder why stock sounded better.I’ve been messing with car audio for almost 30 yrs and its alot of work and very time consuming.

Anyways hop over to... diyma.com...good ppl and a world of knowledge and information from some of the best in the business .
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Silk do have the right timbre for my ears,aluminums or titanium’s can really do a job on yours ears especially in a car environment (worst place for proper imaging w/o alot of time put in).Implementation,placement,equipment and tuning are all the tools needed for a proper install.Many ppl who don’t know better would replace this ,replace that then wonder why stock sounded better.I’ve been messing with car audio for almost 30 yrs and its alot of work and very time consuming.

Anyways hop over to... diyma.com...good ppl and a world of knowledge and information from some of the best in the business .
I'm on diyma! Those guys are hardcore lol. These are the folks that would have me making speaker pods and fiberglassing them into the sail panels on the A-pillar.
 

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Okay cool,I kind of figure that when you mentioned Stereo Integrity in your post b/c it’s not mainstream over the counter stuff.Again good luck with the project.
 

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Wanna get creative ,you can make your own mounting bracket from 1/8” ABS plastic sheet ,matching the shape then cut out holes for the bolts and aftermarket tweeter.Then get the value of the OEM capacitor(or if possible reuse the OEM capacitor)solder it to the proper terminal and bam you’re done.There’s tons of tweeter selections on Part Express along with capacitors.
The factory capacitor is 67uf. I installed tweeters from a Minimus 7 and changed the cap to a 22uf capacitor. It really helped to clean up the highs and clear up the sound.
 

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The factory capacitor is 67uf. I installed tweeters from a Minimus 7 and changed the cap to a 22uf capacitor. It really helped to clean up the highs and clear up the sound.
Sounds good,so what range are the tweeters playing?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My impression is the correct way to set the high or low pass filters, is to run REW RTA. Then you can see the output from each driver and where their output falls off.
 

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In my experience I’ve seen in a typical 2way crossover network between woofer & tweeter somewhere around 1800-4500hz depending on brand.If it sounds good to you thats all that matters.

Like TheLex said using an RTA can/would help alot.I use an APP on my smart phone that comes in handy for RTA’ing.Download some pink noise and a RTA app then you will see what each speaker is doing.
 

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I put a 1" dome tweeter in mine, but I recently discovered this full range speaker should fit in that spot and can really help out the midrange imaging.

 
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