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Just get the Odyssey battery and install it yourself. It takes 10 minutes if you're taking your time. If you're camping with the vehicle, I'd install a battery disconnect. That should be super easy to do while you're installing the new battery.
I'm tempted but getting a '21 and always we leave it locked, I don't think this will be a problem for the normal battery.
 

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2020 Subaru Ascent Limited
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@qwickening Good post and glad to see you got a '20 after the TSB was revised to even indicate it affected MY20.

So locked or unlocked was .8 difference but that's a 3-day vs 5-day test to YMMV. I'm a couple days away from picking up a '21 model so no doubt it's clear of the TSB. I always park my cars locked completely as we live on an alley in a city so from time to time there are people looking to snoop in unlocked cars. Not sure where we'll park out key fobs but they are not autostart as we'll likely love our 6mos of smartdevice based autostart and birthdays and such let those be easy purchases.

@burgessms I'm more intrigued by how the trunk opens itself on it's own
Oh yes. The early 2020MY is most definitely affected and dealers should be handing out the TSB like candy (even if they're not.)

RE: 0.8 and 3-day vs 5-day and YMMV -- agreed! Batteries are funky.

However, it should also be noted that a drop to 11.8 is unkind to even an AGM battery (because of the DoD) and will decrease cycle lifetimes more than drops to 12.6 -- so it isn't just 0.8 that folks should care about. 11.8 is NO GOOD - regardless of the # days it takes to get there.

I am moderately pleased with these locked door results. Confession: I say moderately because I was kinda getting ready to fight for a lemon law buy back, and I still have mixed feelings about keeping this vehicle. The hypervigilance that has been required has left a bad taste in my mouth. But again... I guess I should pay the price for not doing enough research first, eh? If nothing else, at some point, I will feel less guilty about trading it in for a different vehicle because it will be "behaving as designed" 馃槄馃槀

I do wish you the best of luck with your 2021. Honestly.
(But... Are you sure you don't want a hybrid xc90? Because that's what I'm 馃い over now. 馃槣 (My friend (who is part of the Subaru class action) now has one and he LOVES it.))
 

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Hahaha... yeah would love a non-plugin hybrid but they don't make one for the CX90.

Problem is that Volvo pricing for CX90 in top trim with 3/4 of their packages is $75k.

Top of the line Ascent Touring with a good deal of their option packages are MSRP around $48k and discounted to $41,500 with good negotiating. That's $27k difference, enough for almost a CrossTrek Sport w/o the moonroof.

And while Volvo is safety heaven, Subaru is not a slouch in safety ratings, so I'll stick with the Ascent and see.
 

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Success Story and Summary Post
I know we all scoffed when the SOA CS rep told me to lock my doors, but IT WORKED. I have been measuring the voltages with my doors locked and my hood up for 14 whole days and my battery has only dropped to 12.53V (~80%)
--
Here is my complete list of fixes for the 2020MY Limited (Build Date 10/19) with about 3k miles on it.
Yes : I needed to get the TSB done. It definitely helped with the door-related drains. Measured tests confirm that the 20 minute timeout worked for me. (Warranty work. $0)
Yes : I needed to replace the OEM battery with another brand. Even after getting the TSB done, I had scary low voltage while camping. (Doors locked then, obvs.) [ Battery : Odyssey PC-1400T ] Note: SOA reimbursed me for parts and labor here. Don't do out of pocket if you're still under warranty. ($350-350=$0)
Yes : I need to lock my doors in the garage. Even after getting the TSB done and the battery replaced, measured tests confirmed this. Crazy and confusing, I know - but it honestly made a difference in my testing. (In contrast to 14 day success above, the doors unlocked drained my brand new Odyssey battery to 11.8V in the course of about 3 days.)
Yes : I still carry a Lithium jump pack with me. They're just good to have - even with a "normal" car. ($100)
Yes : I still feel more comfortable having the car plugged into a battery charger if I know it is going to sit more than 2 weeks. ($40)
Optional : I still use my multimeter regularly to keep tabs on things - especially if I know I'm going to need the car after sitting. ($40)
Optional : I purchased a HatchCatch. Yes, the 20 min timeout works, but if I know I'm going to be unloading the vehicle while camping, I wanted an even shorter timeout on the 3-4 amp draw. Yes, the carabiner method worked for me, but I wanted (1) a way that was more straightforward and less metal-on-metal potential-to-break-things (2) to support Nick because he rocks. I mean. Seriously. This guy found a problem and fixed it. ($20)
Optional : Replacing the halogen bulbs with LED. While I was doing this, I did some testing, and it seems like the BUS itself is still the majority of the drain. I think replacing the bulbs dropped the "doors open" drain only about 1 amp - but left 3 amps on the table. (Apologies for not taking super detailed notes here.) IMPORTANT: I only spent $11 bucks on Amazon for this. (ASIN: B07HQ5S15Q) Don't bother with the dealer! It is insane that they charge so much for this. Watch Robert's video and you will feel quite comfortable popping the light covers yourself. ($11)
Sidenote: Yes, sadly, the Odyssey 35-PC1400T / 35-PC1400 battery is slated for discontinuation. Sales at Enersys (maker of Odyssey batteries) confirmed that as of early November they probably only had 100 left in the pipeline. Other non-OEM batteries will probably help though.
I think that's everything. Now that it is winter, I'll be camping/driving less. So... if I pop back in with more problems in the spring, I won't be too surprised. (But I'm a glass half empty person.)
 

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IIRC, even with a Hatch Catch (or similar) it still takes 20min for the current to decrease with the TG open. It's just without it or the TSB, it never decreased. My memmory is a little fuzzy, but that's what I seem to recall having measured it.
 

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IIRC, even with a Hatch Catch (or similar) it still takes 20min for the current to decrease with the TG open. It's just without it or the TSB, it never decreased. My memmory is a little fuzzy, but that's what I seem to recall having measured it.
REALLY? I am 80% sure that when I tested the carabiner trick, it killed the big draw right away. Thanks for the tip though! I will make sure to triple test!
 

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  • With gate open, with a gate controller that is affected by the problem the newest version fixes, there will be a 4 amp draw that will not go away.
  • With the new controller, the draw will shut off in 20 minutes.
  • In BOTH cases, the draw will end when the gate thinks it's closed (whether with the hatch catch or because it's actually closed.
 

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Btw, I got Odyssey 1400T for $295 at Autozone and it was shipped 1 day.

We found a very, very friendly mechanic that loves to work on all kinds of cars and motorcycles and he's going to replace the Subaru battery for the amazing cost of.... keeping the Subaru battery.

I think I will still do some of the bulbs over to LED (always saves something!) but waiting to find warm color LED as we like that over the bright white color that is ubiquitous.

Next Spring we'll get the Towing put in for a 2" receiver (no ball), since we have a bike rack for 4 bikes we use in the Summer.
 

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IMO if you're camping, it would be worth it to install a battery disconnect. That's the simplest way to 100% prevent a dead battery. I'd also carry a jump starter battery pack with me. I have a NOCO jump starter that I keep under the rear parcel cover in the tray "just in case".
 

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IMO if you're camping, it would be worth it to install a battery disconnect. That's the simplest way to 100% prevent a dead battery. I'd also carry a jump starter battery pack with me. I have a NOCO jump starter that I keep under the rear parcel cover in the tray "just in case".
I keep my jump starter battery pack under the driver's seat. I've never had to use it, but it could be hard to get to in the rear compartment if the battery fails and the rear lift gate is not working.
 
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  • With gate open, with a gate controller that is affected by the problem the newest version fixes, there will be a 4 amp draw that will not go away.
  • With the new controller, the draw will shut off in 20 minutes.
  • In BOTH cases, the draw will end when the gate thinks it's closed (whether with the hatch catch or because it's actually closed.
Today I asked my dealer to implement the tsb on the gate controller. I really only was looking for a fix to the battery drain. To date I never had a battery problem nor a gate issue but I never pushed the limits such as they were. I used the phrasing in the tsb but because they could not replicate the gate issue they were not willing to complete the tsb. So I guess when this battery dies in a couple of years I will replace it with one posted in t he forum but it does not resolve the battery drain issue. i wish Subaru would simply take care of the potential stranding from a battery drain with this tsb and not make owners wait to be stranded or take care of it for those who have gate controller issues. I have the extended warranty and now this is on record but I hate getting stranded. Covid and forest fires put a dent in our deep excursions this year but 2021 will present opportunities that will tax the battery draining. I know there are work arounds but owners shoudld not have to go through them when there is a manufacturer fix for what was a design problem.
 

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@packout tell them to do the 20 minute draw test. Either your gate controller goes to sleep in 20 minutes, or, it keeps the car awake and continues drawing 4 amps after the 20 minute timeout. If it fails the test, the gate controller is supposed to be replaced.

It's in their diagnostics instructions - but usually skipped/missed by servicepeople who don't read all the supporting documentation.

  1. Zero meter
  2. Open gate and measure current (generally around 4a)
  3. Leave gate open with FOB away from car.
  4. At 20 minute mark, measure current (should be under 0.3a)
  5. If current draw remains over 0.3a, replace gate controller.
 

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@packout tell them to do the 20 minute draw test. Either your gate controller goes to sleep in 20 minutes, or, it keeps the car awake and continues drawing 4 amps after the 20 minute timeout. If it fails the test, the gate controller is supposed to be replaced.

It's in their diagnostics instructions - but usually skipped/missed by servicepeople who don't read all the supporting documentation.

  1. Zero meter
  2. Open gate and measure current (generally around 4a)
  3. Leave gate open with FOB away from car.
  4. At 20 minute mark, measure current (should be under 0.3a)
  5. If current draw remains over 0.3a, replace gate controller.
I will bring it back to them today and determine if in fact they did the test (I assume there would be documentation of the results). Based on what we know of the existing design, I would suspect that all original controllers would fail that test. Is that correct?
 

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all original controllers would fail that test.
I think so. When did you get your Ascent? While mine is an original controller, they're on version 5, so, yours may not be an original controller. Mine is in the first 1,800 production Ascents.
 

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Had the lovely trunk open = dead battery issue occur as well. Able to jump with roadside assistance (other car couldn't jump it) and then took it into the Carlsbad (Bob Baker) Subaru as rear door was no longer working with power function. Thanks to learning about the TSB notice on here, told them about it and they were able to replace the "pwr r gate ecu" and also the "latch & actuator rear gat" and get the power trunk door working again. They tested the original battery and it passed. Assuming the 20 min time out is now working. Perhaps unrelated, but I'm noticing some random CarPlay disconnecting now - cable is good because phone is charging but CarPlay is greyed out (disconnects from a working CarPlay connection) - see pic. Noticing this with two separate cable plugged into both front USB ports. Anyone have this issue?


6823


6824
 

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Couple days ago I wrote email to [email protected] with all my complaints - and still got no answers.

Anyone got any responses from subaru customer care re battery?
[/QUOTE]
Did you get a response about your battery issue?
 

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Couple days ago I wrote email to [email protected] with all my complaints - and still got no answers.

Anyone got any responses from subaru customer care re battery?
Did you get a response about your battery issue?
[/QUOTE]
Yes I did, and SOA came through with reimbursing me for a robust new battery of my choice. Call them and open a claim after you go to the dealer with your detailed concerns.
 

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If you go to the dealer, won't they replace it if they find that the battery is defective? You had to email customercare to get a new battery? WOuldn't that be under warranty?
Got my ascent last May2020. Battery died the other day and then yesterday. Won't start. Taking it to dealer on Monday. Do you have other issues with your ascent? I find it odd, my tailgate opened on its own twice, I wonder if there is something to this, and if this is the reason battery is dying.
 

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If you go to the dealer, won't they replace it if they find that the battery is defective? You had to email customercare to get a new battery? WOuldn't that be under warranty?
Got my ascent last May2020. Battery died the other day and then yesterday. Won't start. Taking it to dealer on Monday. Do you have other issues with your ascent? I find it odd, my tailgate opened on its own twice, I wonder if there is something to this, and if this is the reason battery is dying.
Plenty of posts on this forum covering this topic in detail. There are software updates for this issue and you will need a new battery. I strongly suggest that you choose the battery you want and talk with SOA about covering the cost. Do not accept the OEM battery as a replacement. Given that the battery failed are you having it towed to the dealership? Call SOA to arrange for a warranty battery replacement and all the updates to be done (as I stated, first choose the battery you want).
 

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Sorry for my ignorance, but what is SOA? Subaru or America? What was your battery of choice? I am in Ontario. I am taking it to the dealer for service on Monday. I was able to boost it so it works again. I have told service dept of my issues. Now the tailgate wouldn't open. What is wrong with the Ascent? People rave about how reliable, good resale value of Subaru..what happened?!
 
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