Subaru Ascent Forum banner

1 - 20 of 51 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm researching for a dash cam installation and have been monitoring the forums on this page. Very helpful! At the end of the day I have two remaining questions to ensure I don't screw up...

1. The dash cam draws 5 amps. I'd like to use fuse 33, which is 7.5 Amps and Key SW A. It has constant power so I can use the parking mode feature. In the fuse tap riser, is it okay to use the original 7.5 Amp fuse, and next to it a second 7.5 Amp fuse? Please see image of circled fuse.

2. Please see the image of the nut for potential grounding. Any reason why this can't be loosened to connect the ground? Anyone know what size it is?

Thank you!

Brian
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
I'm researching for a dash cam installation and have been monitoring the forums on this page. Very helpful! At the end of the day I have two remaining questions to ensure I don't screw up...

1. The dash cam draws 5 amps. I'd like to use fuse 33, which is 7.5 Amps and Key SW A. It has constant power so I can use the parking mode feature. In the fuse tap riser, is it okay to use the original 7.5 Amp fuse, and next to it a second 7.5 Amp fuse? Please see image of circled fuse.

2. Please see the image of the nut for potential grounding. Any reason why this can't be loosened to connect the ground? Anyone know what size it is?

Thank you!

Brian
I use the 7.5 in the towing slot with a riser. As for the nut size, I bet it's 8mm. I'd recommend using something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CQMQL9L so you can easily plug and unplug any other accessories/dashcam in the future. That's what I do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I use the 7.5 in the towing slot with a riser. As for the nut size, I bet it's 8mm. I'd recommend using something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CQMQL9L so you can easily plug and unplug any other accessories/dashcam in the future. That's what I do.
Thank you very much...and I just didn't want to start loosening something that would cause a bigger headache! Also, here's an image of what I had in mind for the fuse riser. I think someone else on these forums may have purchased it. I'd like to use two 7.5 Amp fuses if that sounds remotely logical ha.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Thank you very much...and I just didn't want to start loosening something that would cause a bigger headache! Also, here's an image of what I had in mind for the fuse riser. I think someone else on these forums may have purchased it. I'd like to use two 7.5 Amp fuses if that sounds remotely logical ha.
that's what I am using.. I don't have the vehicle with me today but I can take a few snaps later of my setup.

Also, if you route your cables to the B pillar (A Pillars?) by the driver side, make sure you don't run it in front of the airbag, route it under and with the rest of the cables. You don't want to block or damage the air bag! :tango_face_surprise:grin:

BTW, why do you need two fuse risers for this application? Two for this may be overkill. :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thank you very much...and I just didn't want to start loosening something that would cause a bigger headache! Also, here's an image of what I had in mind for the fuse riser. I think someone else on these forums may have purchased it. I'd like to use two 7.5 Amp fuses if that sounds remotely logical ha.

BTW, why do you need two fuse risers for this application? Two for this may be overkill. /forum/images/smilies/confused.gif
Thank you for your insights! I may definitely be using the wrong terminology so I am including an image of what I would theoretically like to do. And did you ground the camera to that screw also? And successfully loosen/tighten it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Here's what I did with mine. I actually inserted in on lamp lg 7.5amp. I grounded the cigarette lighter socket to that screw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
866 Posts
Here's what I did with mine. I actually inserted in on lamp lg 7.5amp. I grounded the cigarette lighter socket to that screw.
I'm fairly certain about this since I installed my dashcam a couple of days ago. I think your fuse adapters are oriented incorrectly, resulting in unprotected circuits. When I was metering around the fuse panel I noticed that the right side of each fuse slot is the battery side (either constant 12V or switched). The left side is where the accessory to be powered gets it power from after it passes through the fuse.

In your images the dashcam wiring is bypassing the fuses. If you flip the adapters over so that the red wire sticks out to the left, then each circuit will be protected by a fuse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
I'm fairly certain about this since I installed my dashcam a couple of days ago. I think your fuse adapters are oriented incorrectly, resulting in unprotected circuits. When I was metering around the fuse panel I noticed that the right side of each fuse slot is the battery side (either constant 12V or switched). The left side is where the accessory to be powered gets it power from after it passes through the fuse.

In your images the dashcam wiring is bypassing the fuses. If you flip the adapters over so that the red wire sticks out to the left, then each circuit will be protected by a fuse.
Ok, i'll reverse it when I have a chance. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
I'm fairly certain about this since I installed my dashcam a couple of days ago. I think your fuse adapters are oriented incorrectly, resulting in unprotected circuits. When I was metering around the fuse panel I noticed that the right side of each fuse slot is the battery side (either constant 12V or switched). The left side is where the accessory to be powered gets it power from after it passes through the fuse.

In your images the dashcam wiring is bypassing the fuses. If you flip the adapters over so that the red wire sticks out to the left, then each circuit will be protected by a fuse.
Is this true for fuse #2? I was trying to hardwire my dashcam using fuse #2 but I am not getting anything unless I flip it but it won't fit, and worries me that I might damage something so I just plug it to a cigarette outlet. I followed the pictures/guide of @yyhd so I thought I am doing it wrong. I used a voltmeter but I get the hot from the right side. I want to install the dashcam neatly but don't want to damage the car electronics. I don't use parking mode just when the car is running, please advise what fuse to use and pictures would be helpful. TIA
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
866 Posts
Is this true for fuse #2? I was trying to hardwire my dashcam using fuse #2 but I am not getting anything unless I flip it but it won't fit, and worries me that I might damage something so I just plug it to a cigarette outlet. I followed the pictures/guide of @yyhd so I thought I am doing it wrong. I used a voltmeter but I get the hot from the right side. I want to install the dashcam neatly but don't want to damage the car electronics. I don't use parking mode just when the car is running, please advise what fuse to use and pictures would be helpful. TIA
I probed pretty much all slots and the right side is definitely the 12V source side. The left side of each slot connects each circuit via a fuse

I was originally going to tap the CIGAR circuit, but the adapter doesn't fit up there when oriented correctly. I used the empty slot #7 (directly under the 20A CIGAR fuse). This fuse location is only on when the car is on ACC/on (tested via multimeter). I put the dashcam fuse into the add-a-circuit adapter, and obviously left the other slot empty since you're not replacing an existing fuse. The add-a-circuit went in with the red pigtail lead sticking out to the left.

I might be able to add a picture later. Gotta get going to the beach!

EDIT: you can see it clearly in post #6 (except orient the adapter the other way). Slot #7 is empty and that's what I used. I'd double check to make sure that it is a switched circuit (in case our cars are different, just being safe).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
@rockthebeef I think I just turned off the car that is why I am ready ~1V last time, now that I installed and double check the fuse it now reads 0V.

Now after carefully looking at the footage of the ascent IIHS crash, I am worried about the routing of the cables from the main camera to the rear on the B & C pillars. Anyone else installed a dual dashcam? I need some advise. I reroute my honda accord today and it barely made it to the rear so I know for sure on the ascent 6 meters of cabling won't make it to the rear hatch if I route it under the floor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
493 Posts
@rockthebeef I think I just turned off the car that is why I am ready ~1V last time, now that I installed and double check the fuse it now reads 0V.

Now after carefully looking at the footage of the ascent IIHS crash, I am worried about the routing of the cables from the main camera to the rear on the B & C pillars. Anyone else installed a dual dashcam? I need some advise. I reroute my honda accord today and it barely made it to the rear so I know for sure on the ascent 6 meters of cabling won't make it to the rear hatch if I route it under the floor.
I just finished routing the cable for our rear camera. The camera will be attached at the top of the glass on the lift gate. Just need to stick it up there today or tomorrow.

I routed the cable through the top trim of the lift gate (drilled a notch the exact size of the cable for a tight fit) then through the same black tubing gasket (driver's side) for the stock wire harness. Then down behind the driver's side pillar trim along near the lift gate weather strip.

Here's where it got tricky for just a moment. Once it reached down to the black trim (past the cream trim) I used a coat hanger that I straightened out and it just barely reached from the passenger door (latch area) to the lift gate where the cable was waiting. I had to wiggle it it few times to get through some sound deadening material and around a few bends, but it got through. It essentially runs behind the speaker and cup holders.

I then taped the cable to the coat hanger and pulled it through between the trim and the shell of the car. I didn't have to take the trim off, just had to remove/pull off a little bit of both the passenger door and lift gate weather strip to see and grab the coat hanger.

Once the cable was at the passenger door opening, routing the rest of the way down along and underneath the door sill plates to the front of the vehicle to the fuse panel was easy. The sill plates were just held down with clips.

No worry about airbags by running the cable along the floor, which was my only main concern.

I also measured before hand and if you route the cable this way, you should be able to get away with a 20ft length of cable. I decided to use a 25ft length just in case I measured wrong, but I ended up with about 6ft of slack at the fuse panel. I just looped it up and secured it out of the way and it worked just fine.

That's just the way I ran mine. I'm sure you could do it other ways too.

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,056 Posts
I probed pretty much all slots and the right side is definitely the 12V source side. The left side of each slot connects each circuit via a fuse

I was originally going to tap the CIGAR circuit, but the adapter doesn't fit up there when oriented correctly. I used the empty slot #7 (directly under the 20A CIGAR fuse). This fuse location is only on when the car is on ACC/on (tested via multimeter). I put the dashcam fuse into the add-a-circuit adapter, and obviously left the other slot empty since you're not replacing an existing fuse. The add-a-circuit went in with the red pigtail lead sticking out to the left.

I might be able to add a picture later. Gotta get going to the beach!

EDIT: you can see it clearly in post #6 (except orient the adapter the other way). Slot #7 is empty and that's what I used. I'd double check to make sure that it is a switched circuit (in case our cars are different, just being safe).
Try #7. You really can't mess up by trying any empty ones. A multi-meter is not necessary, just try all of the empty slot out; the dashcam needs to be off when you turn off your car, vice-versa.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
493 Posts
There's also an open fuse slot that is constant hot, I forget which one though. All the rest seem to not have any juice to them.

Once we get our battery pack I'll switch ours to that always hot slot to be able to utilize the "parking mode" feature our front and rear cameras have.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
275 Posts
Try #7. You really can't mess up by trying any empty ones. A multi-meter is not necessary, just try all of the empty slot out; the dashcam needs to be off when you turn off your car, vice-versa.

Any idea how many amps you can draw from that slot? I need 9
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
275 Posts
You know that's a really good question. In order to figure that out, we would have to look at the wire gauge for that slot to determine its capacity.

I just went ahead and hooked up the cell link neo to empty slot #7. The bluetooth app shows it is able to draw the 9.0A required. That slot #7 is great! With the way fuse taps are offered, it's impossible to fit on that #2 fuse for the cigar with the load side on the right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
275 Posts
I just finished routing the cable for our rear camera. The camera will be attached at the top of the glass on the lift gate. Just need to stick it up there today or tomorrow.

I routed the cable through the top trim of the lift gate (drilled a notch the exact size of the cable for a tight fit) then through the same black tubing gasket (driver's side) for the stock wire harness. Then down behind the driver's side pillar trim along near the lift gate weather strip.

Here's where it got tricky for just a moment. Once it reached down to the black trim (past the cream trim) I used a coat hanger that I straightened out and it just barely reached from the passenger door (latch area) to the lift gate where the cable was waiting. I had to wiggle it it few times to get through some sound deadening material and around a few bends, but it got through. It essentially runs behind the speaker and cup holders.

I then taped the cable to the coat hanger and pulled it through between the trim and the shell of the car. I didn't have to take the trim off, just had to remove/pull off a little bit of both the passenger door and lift gate weather strip to see and grab the coat hanger.

Once the cable was at the passenger door opening, routing the rest of the way down along and underneath the door sill plates to the front of the vehicle to the fuse panel was easy. The sill plates were just held down with clips.

No worry about airbags by running the cable along the floor, which was my only main concern.

I also measured before hand and if you route the cable this way, you should be able to get away with a 20ft length of cable. I decided to use a 25ft length just in case I measured wrong, but I ended up with about 6ft of slack at the fuse panel. I just looped it up and secured it out of the way and it worked just fine.

That's just the way I ran mine. I'm sure you could do it other ways too.

Good luck!
Thanks for this. I finally installed my Thinkware F800 Pro front and rear with a Cellink Neo Battery. I was worried about the side airbags as well, so I followed your routing method for the rear camera at the floor. I was worried my cable was not going to reach but it did and I was left with an extra maybe 4 inches. I just straight up took off the side panel in the trunk area to make it easier to send a wire under the cupholders and to the weatherstripping by the rear passenger door. I used a fishing tool I use for electrical work. From there, the floor panels didn't really have to be removed, just pried open a little bit to get the wire tucked in there.

As for the power, I tapped empty fuse slot #7 for a 9 amp draw by the Cellink Neo Battery, which I tucked behind the center console, per Stillmotion's idea, accessible by removing some carpet on the passenger side. From there I ran the wire to the camera up the right side pillar, while the wire from the rear camera went up the left side pillar. I tried to run the wire along another thick conduit the was above/behind the airbags. I use twist ties to secure my wire to that conduit so it wouldn't sag and get in the way of the airbags. Then wires tucked into headliner, above the eyesight cameras, and into the stem of the rearview mirror, then to the camera.
 
1 - 20 of 51 Posts
Top