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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I originally thought getting a hitch with a higher Tongue weight would increase my tongue weight capacity. So I order the noted Curt Class III Reciver Hitch.


Lucky the folks on the forum (previous post) educated me on the fact that the Ascent 500lb tongue weight is actually my limiting factor. In hindsight I should have just gone with the factor hitch. But I have already order this and its showing up today.

Has anyone use this before or had any issues? I debating just returning it and going to the dealership and having them install the OEM hitch. But if it doesn't really make to much of a difference then I'll just keep it and go to the local Hitch shop and have them install in.

4945


I also went and ordered a Tekonsha OEM Replacement Vehicle Wiring Harness with 7-Way Trailer Connector ( Travel Trailer I will be pulling will have electric brakes).


4946


Same question, anyone have experience with this harness? Tempted to return it all and just go to the dealers.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Not sure what you have invested, but I'd return it. The simple fact that it states drilling required in the instructions is enough to steer you away from it. Remember in the factory hitch you get the wiring harness included and it is plug and play.
 

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I would return it and get the factory setup. It is n more complete than buying the individual parts. It will also come with the little twist lock thingies that hold the center bumper cover on when you are not using the hitch.

Also from a safety perspective the factory hitch was designed and tested to work with the Ascent in the event of an accident. Nobody knows the way the Ascent is designed to absorb impacts more than Subaru.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the reply’s Stu and Robert.

The one I got doesn’t require any drilling. But I get your points, going with the factory setup just takes the guess work out. Any you don’t have to worry about it.

I’ll call the local dealership and see what they can do for me.

In regard to a brake controller,do dealership typically install these? Or will I have to go to a third party?

Thanks!
 

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Hello,

I originally thought getting a hitch with a higher Tongue weight would increase my tongue weight capacity. So I order the noted Curt Class III Reciver Hitch.


Lucky the folks on the forum (previous post) educated me on the fact that the Ascent 500lb tongue weight is actually my limiting factor. In hindsight I should have just gone with the factor hitch. But I have already order this and its showing up today.

Has anyone use this before or had any issues? I debating just returning it and going to the dealership and having them install the OEM hitch. But if it doesn't really make to much of a difference then I'll just keep it and go to the local Hitch shop and have them install in.

View attachment 4945

I also went and ordered a Tekonsha OEM Replacement Vehicle Wiring Harness with 7-Way Trailer Connector ( Travel Trailer I will be pulling will have electric brakes).


View attachment 4946

Same question, anyone have experience with this harness? Tempted to return it all and just go to the dealers.

Thanks for the help!
Go to dealer for oem hitch and harness
 

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The Curt hitch attaches to the bumper mounting, which is designed to get pushed in a collision, not pull a heavy trailer. The factory hitch does not use that mounting but rather integrates into the internal frame rails which properly support the towing load. Its safety has been verified through crash testing. It includes a harness, connectors and trailer brake wiring. You just need to add a brake controller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Alright thanks everyone. I will go head and return what I purchased and go ahead and get setup at the dealership.

Thanks for pointing out the difference in the hitch mounting Merope. Just checked out a OEM install on YouTube and see the difference.
 

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FYI, it does help to shop around for the Subaru hitch. There is a thread on the hitch deals that Liberty Subaru are doing. Dealer pricing on the hitch and installation vary so much I have seen from $450 to over $1,000 quoted for the same Subaru hitch installed. Plenty of info in this forum on hitch prices.
 

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In regard to a brake controller,do dealership typically install these? Or will I have to go to a third party?
Brake controllers plug into the connector on the Subaru harness in the driver's side footwell. They are generally user installed. If you buy a pre-terminated cable from the controller manufacturer, such as Tekonshia, the whole install may not take you more than ten minutes, not including the time you spend deciding where best to locate it. Many folks choose the cover for the fuses, also in the driver's side foot well, bottom of dash.
 
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This is the version I use...




Hey Jim,

I did some looking and found this Tekonsha. Is something like this what you are talking about?

View attachment 4949


Look like the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 is well recommend across the forum.

thanks
 

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That's the same one that I think 80% of us have. It's a great brake controller. I've had mine for a decade now!
Yep, and because it comes with a bare wire end to splice to the Subaru pigtail (instead of a car specific end), it's cheaper. :)
 

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Another owner's impression of that hitch, after some extended use.

 

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This is a long thread about Brake controller installment. Ascent Trailer Brake controller - PIX
There are many helpful images there (mine are on page 3 of the thread, post #43). Sometimes newer forum member cant see images. Let me know if you are doing it yourself (which is easily doable if your halfway handy) and if you need help I can repost them here for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hey Guys,

Got my Trailer (Little Guy Max, Dry Weight 3200 lbs), Got my Subaru Factory Installed Hitch, and I got Tekonsha Prodigy P3 with the OEM harness (thanks for all the advice).

I got everything set up and took out my trailer to an empty mall parking lot and attempted to set the power level on the brake controller. And I have to admit I was a bit confused. I followed the instructions and set the Boost to Zero and my power level to 6. I got the car up to 25 and then applied the manual override to the brake and it slowed the trailer down but I didn't really feel it "lock-up" but to be honest not really sure what that should feel like. I kept going and never really felt a significant or dramatic response from the brakes. I took it all the way up to 14 and still didn't really have ah-ha moment. I fell like I am missing something here.

Should I also be applying the brake with my foot at the same time as the manual override? Are the brakes locking up a subtle thing or should it be dramatic?

I was thinking maybe this means I needed to up my boost to 1. But reading the instruction again it said if my trailer weighed less than my vehicle which it does then the boost should be zero.

Thanks for the help
 

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@Retrop,

First, congrats! Nice setup.

I don't own a trailer, but I've towed rentals with my Ascent, and had to set each one up on the P3. A few things come to mind:
  • Is the P3 mounted square to the direction of travel, and not swiveled sideways at all? It can be tilted up/down, but not sideways. I suppose a little isn't a big deal, but it takes away from the sensor read.
  • Is it mounted firmly, no sliding around?
  • Brake type is selected as Electric? There should be an E in the lower left of the screen (there's a setting choice).
  • Used or new trailer? P3 instructions say that higher boost may be needed if the brakes are worn. If it's used and you're not getting much braking, I'd say bump it to Boost 1 and see if there's a difference. Start slow - better to feel the brakes coming in than to lock up at 25mph!
  • Think of Boost as a coarse setting that gives you a range of braking capability. Then the power buttons give you a fine control over the power number.
  • I definitely want to feel the trailer brake working all by itself, with me jamming the manual spring slider on the P3. At 3-5 mph, jamming the slider will make the trailer slow and stop the car (without me pressing the car's foot brake).
  • Once I've got the brake power set to where I can stop the car+trailer with the P3 slider, then I try stopping with my car brake pedal only. I should feel the trailer brake kicking in as well. I like it balanced where the trailer isn't doing all the work, and the car isn't doing all the work -- I want the car foot brake to feel like I stop just like without a trailer (car stops in the same way as before, and trailer is "stopping its own weight").
  • When I've got all that set, THEN I go around the block at 25mph and try the trailer brake by itself (slider) to make sure there's braking but no lockup. Then I brake with car brake pedal only, again feeling for balanced braking.
I hope some of that helps!

F.S.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the detailed response.

I have the brake controller inline with the drive direction. No swivel and it's not slanted. I have it set on electric. So the trailer is new, BUT I bought it on the east coast and had it towed to the west coast.

Guess the driver could have overused the brake possibly?

I will try using the boost 1 today and follow your other recommendation.

When the brakes do lock up should it be obvious?

thanks again
 

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The lever on the bottom is variable. It's to be used to slow the trailer in the event of sway (using the car brake pedal won't accomplish the same effect). You can see how much brake force it is applying from its readout. I think some electric brakes react more sharply to brake power signals, which is where more tweaking to the settings helps.

I found the overall braking power needs to be tweaked now and then. And, it's definitely specific to the trailer. Each trip, I make sure it's properly calibrated, by testing stopping in a nearby parking lot. We're lucky to have one just a block and a half away, with the empty part where we come in. We adjust until slow and fast braking feels like there's nothing attached to the car, or as close to that feeling as possible.



Thanks for the detailed response.

I have the brake controller inline with the drive direction. No swivel and it's not slanted. I have it set on electric. So the trailer is new, BUT I bought it on the east coast and had it towed to the west coast.

Guess the driver could have overused the brake possibly?

I will try using the boost 1 today and follow your other recommendation.

When the brakes do lock up should it be obvious?

thanks again
 
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