[tdelker]

I noticed this over thanksgiving trip.

In a separate thread, I have had a failed serpentine belt but we didn't overheat, and there was no dried coolant after that.

Fans come on often and at high speed, even under what seems like low load situations.

Any ideas?

Are there active shutters over the radiator in the grill? When should I expect to see them open and close?

Thanks!

Tom

 

[Robert.Mauro]

Hi Tom, please bring that to the attention of your service department.

No, the Ascent doesn't have active grill shutters.

 

[Merope]

What's the level indicate when cold? I'm guessing when they replaced the belt they may have over filled the reservoir causing it to overflow when hot. It should be mostly empty to allow for expansion. The cold and hot fill line is visible toward the bottom of the reservoir.

 

[Kgingerich]

I had exact same on 2019 premium. It was at full line cold and I assumed it splashed to the cap during normal cycling. This system is not “air tight” as there is even a small vent hole closest to front bumper. Anyways I always wiped it clean periodically and it has basically stopped splashing at the cap (and seeping out) as coolant has settled half way between the level markers in the reservoir. I thought about a rubber washer of some sort to sure you the cap seal but it’s since become a non issue. Frankly I was looking for someone else to post about this.

 

[Wildcrd76]

I have this issue as well and I hBe brought it up to 2 service departments. All they said after inspection that this is normal function for the coolant. At one point I noticed that my coolant levels were decreasing and eventually went below the min marker. I filled with oem coolant to Max line.

side look and top down showing how much actually flowed down the reservoir. From the responses and lack of knowledge I’ve seen from the service reps as well as service techs. I’m very leery about taking my car to the dealers for things other than a major repair. And all I hear out of the service managers mouths are a bunch of rehearsed answers designed to shift the blame onto the consumer and prevent them from taking responsibility in the form of warranty work

 

[SkiPro3]

If it were me, I'd ask either the dealer or an auto parts house to test the cap for proper operation. Maybe just shotgun the cap by swapping it out. I've seen weak caps do just what you describe.

OEM Radiator Cap

 

[packout]

use a

I have this issue as well and I hBe brought it up to 2 service departments. All they said after inspection that this is normal function for the coolant. At one point I noticed that my coolant levels were decreasing and eventually went below the min marker. I filled with oem coolant to Max line. View attachment 2750 View attachment 2751
side look and top down showing how much actually flowed down the reservoir. From the responses and lack of knowledge I’ve seen from the service reps as well as service techs. I’m very leery about taking my car to the dealers for things other than a major repair. And all I hear out of the service managers mouths are a bunch of rehearsed answers designed to shift the blame onto the consumer and prevent them from taking responsibility in the form of warranty work

dio

I have this issue as well and I hBe brought it up to 2 service departments. All they said after inspection that this is normal function for the coolant. At one point I noticed that my coolant levels were decreasing and eventually went below the min marker. I filled with oem coolant to Max line. View attachment 2750 View attachment 2751
side look and top down showing how much actually flowed down the reservoir. From the responses and lack of knowledge I’ve seen from the service reps as well as service techs. I’m very leery about taking my car to the dealers for things other than a major repair. And all I hear out of the service managers mouths are a bunch of rehearsed answers designed to shift the blame onto the consumer and prevent them from taking responsibility in the form of warranty work

Use a different dealer.

 

[Wildcrd76]

use a

dio

Use a different dealer.

I have been to the closest two dealerships in the area and they tell me the same thing. This seems to be a trend with all the dealerships I’ve visited. They completely discount my observations giving me some sort of lame explanation that tries to explain what I am seeing and says that it is part of normal operation of the vehicle. My instincts tell me otherwise and that these things I am seeing will eventually lead or contribute to some type of massive failure in the future. One such failure was a broken strut mount stud where I had observed rust formation in the base. Another observation that I made early on regarding the hood flexing under high speeds or crosswinds I just saw a few days ago is being attributed to the separation of the frame and hood itself. None of the dealers seem willing to really listen o what the customers are saying and the results are these issues popping up when those components are fully failing. These dealers don’t take the time necessary to really investigate any customer concerns and disregard them as the flailing of someone seeing things that aren’t there and quote verbatim from some corporate text to try to ignore the issue and explain away what’s happening. They all really seemed to be brainwashed in some manner because they all display a type of arrogance in that they believe no Subaru can be bad and that something failing couldn’t possibly happen, until it does.

 

[Merope]

IDK if it will be helpful, but here's a brief explanation of how the system is supposed to work.

Normally, the radiator and rest of the cooling system is totally full of coolant, primarily a mixture of water and ethylene (or propylene) glycol. As the engine heats up, the coolant expands and starts to pressurize the system. There is a calibrated relief valve in the radiator cap that lets the excess expanded coolant out into the coolant tank. The radiator remains full without any air. If there was a small amount of air in the radiator, it gets pushed out into the coolant tank as the coolant expands. When the engine is shut off and cools completely, the coolant contracts and more coolant is drawn from the tank to take up the space so that there is no air in the radiator. When the engine is totally cool and you take off the radiator cap, you should see it completely full to the brim. This is described on page 441 and 442 of the manual.

Do not ever attempt to remove the radiator cap unless the engine is completely cool.

The tank is there only to allow a place for the expanded coolant to go, and then to provide some when the engine cools. It's not air tight and doesn't participate in cooling of the engine. In fact, you can see a gaping hole in the front of it below the fill cap in the photo on post #5. The level in it is not important other than there being enough to supply the small amount needed when the engine cools. My tank also shows some blue residue from evaporated coolant. I suspect this is from some that splashes out of that hole when hitting bumps.

Back in the day, cars were designed to have an air space in the radiator to allow for expansion. If there was too much coolant in the radiator, it'd get pushed out the overflow onto the pavement when the engine heated up, and as the engine cooled, air would be drawn back in. This automatically ensured there was enough air in the radiator.

 

[packout]

I have been to the closest two dealerships in the area and they tell me the same thing. This seems to be a trend with all the dealerships I’ve visited. They completely discount my observations giving me some sort of lame explanation that tries to explain what I am seeing and says that it is part of normal operation of the vehicle. My instincts tell me otherwise and that these things I am seeing will eventually lead or contribute to some type of massive failure in the future. One such failure was a broken strut mount stud where I had observed rust formation in the base. Another observation that I made early on regarding the hood flexing under high speeds or crosswinds I just saw a few days ago is being attributed to the separation of the frame and hood itself. None of the dealers seem willing to really listen o what the customers are saying and the results are these issues popping up when those components are fully failing. These dealers don’t take the time necessary to really investigate any customer concerns and disregard them as the flailing of someone seeing things that aren’t there and quote verbatim from some corporate text to try to ignore the issue and explain away what’s happening. They all really seemed to be brainwashed in some manner because they all display a type of arrogance in that they believe no Subaru can be bad and that something failing couldn’t possibly happen, until it does.

Maintaining a vehicle is a partnership between the owner and dealer. We each have unique roles that are critical to keeping on top of the vehicle. If these dealers are not paying attention and discounting what you are telling them then it is time to contact SOA each and every time. This will get the dealers attention. Let them know about past instances. SOA will have that important conversation with the dealer.

 

[Wildcrd76]

Luckily the last week I was fortunate to go to a dealership that I do consider an excellent one. They even have a Starbucks inside if you believe that. First and foremost they listened to everything that I said. Valued my time and got me out of there when promised. Pointed out some things that other dealers said was coverable under warranty that I had not mentioned. This dealership actually is going to try to get SOA approval to get it fixed all without me asking. This is what a dealership should be doing for its customers. Not just arbitrarily saying no to avoid a hasstle. This is actually the dealership I had planned to go to before my wife pulled me to another. Props to McKenna Subaru of Huntington Beach

 

[Kgingerich]

Thanks, keep us posted!