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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, on this engine is that wobbly thing in the middle front the crankshaft? If so it’s wobbling with 38k miles I can only interpret that one way.
anybody know anything about these engines ?
 

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Do you have a pic or video of the component of concern?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I’ll make it and post it tomorrow. It’s always been one of my indicators of excessive wear in an engine. Shimmy in the crankshaft - bad.
This is bad for 38600. So I’m going to make a video showing two things. First the wobble from the perspective of the nut - look at the nut having oscillations showing that the thing spinning is not straight any longer. Then I’m going to show run out a different way- don’t do this at home- by placing my finger nail at a distance to the running engine spinning crankshaft pulley, you will see that instead of a constant rubbing, it hits and misses as the wobbling pulley spins.
 

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Then I’m going to show run out a different way- don’t do this at home- by placing my finger nail at a distance to the running engine spinning crankshaft pulley, you will see that instead of a constant rubbing, it hits and misses as the wobbling pulley spins.
Maybe there’s a better way to do this than placing your finger near moving engine parts?
 

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FYI, I would be surprised if you really have the crankshaft itself moving a noticeable amount. If the crankshaft is moving that much, I am pretty sure the engine would self destruct within seconds. You may have a loose harmoinic balancer or pully or bolt on the end of the crankshaft.

Also let me reiterate the point above and please do not put body parts or even hold anything near moving engine parts. Very dangerous even more so if you have parts that are loose and may come apart and go flying in any direction.
 

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Also let me reiterate the point above and please do not put body parts or even hold anything near moving engine parts. Very dangerous even more so if you have parts that are loose and may come apart and go flying in any direction.
^^ This times ten.
 

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FYI, I would be surprised if you really have the crankshaft itself moving a noticeable amount. If the crankshaft is moving that much, I am pretty sure the engine would self destruct within seconds. You may have a loose harmoinic balancer or pully or bolt on the end of the crankshaft.

Also let me reiterate the point above and please do not put body parts or even hold anything near moving engine parts. Very dangerous even more so if you have parts that are loose and may come apart and go flying in any direction.
Not to mention oil leaking from the timing cover seal. I have heard of the dampener separating, but on much older engines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Yes never do that. No body parts near moving parts, especially with my daughter I’m always reminded of the poor student, I think at Stamford. Hair was down and ....
i dont know theses engines well, but did disassemble one back in the day. Let’s put this in perspective before I post. Ant wobble of the crank pulley is a sign of wear, or damage. It’s not going to be a video of an engine that is going to self destruct, it a video of an engine that should have no wobble. I’ll try to compare it to an engine with 100 k, but I’ll do it a safer way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
ok m stuck in the app with a mystery pic of an Oreo cookie let’s see what happens. Ok so the Oreo cookie pic is gone .....
here is the post:
here is a video showing the nut wobble, and a video showing the run out. The end of the screw driver allows for hearing instead of feeling. It’s something that is obvious to me, but not be obvious if you don’t have experience in this sort of thing. BUT AS OTHERS SAID DONT TRY THIS AT HOME- or at all. If you are not experiences in this sort of thing today s not the day to learn. I use things like this on moving engines as part of diagnosis, including, the car stethoscope. It is dangerous and you should not do it if not trained. safety is relative unfortunately, and most people who use say jack stands, could not tell you the approved way and the disapproved way. But they do it anyway.
ok so back to the Subaru videos. The first one is clear to me. The second one confirms it. The important thing is that the bolt is a hex, and you shoul not use that to see a wobble because you can confuse the sides as a wobble, so use the spinning circle, is it moving side to side ? Then I’ll do the same for a car with 100k, but only if I can do it safely on that car. But if someone could make a similar video from a distance like the first me I’d appreciate it.
operating difficulties I’ll add the first two videos in a minute I something is wrong I dropped the videos to the iPad, they are in the album , but will not show up if I’m using app to add them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok so the last video shows the crankshaft pulley on a 2008 pathfinder with 201914 miles, not a shimmy, but yes the clutch on The fan, or thing it’s cotton a a wobble.

for some reason the videos I made do not show up using the paper clip, photos, then they don’t show up so someone else please tell me how to load a video or unblock it and I’ll send the videos that clearly show major wear to something
 

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Trained professionals only!!!

No one here from the decades of working on running engines?
Adjust the dwell angle of the ignition points? Alan key through distributor cap window on running engine.
Adjust timing? Connect timing light trigger wire to hot plug wire, hold timing light to crankshaft damper, rotate distributor with other hand on running engine.
Adjust valves on engine with solid lifters? Remove valve cover, slide feeler guage under rocker arm while adjusting gap on the running engine. (Not only working on moving parts, get sprayed with hot oil)
Find the bad plug or plug wire? Yup, pull live wire sequentially around the engine.
The shop manuals would tell you to stop the engine, make adjustment restart engine, rinse repeat. No one ever did.
 

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for some reason the videos I made do not show up using the paper clip, photos, then they don’t show up so someone else please tell me how to load a video or unblock it and I’ll send the videos that clearly show major wear to something
This forum site, like virtually all form sites, does not permit direct upload of videos. Why? File sizes. You must hose your video elsewhere and can then link to it for folks to see/view.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok trained professionals only!!!! Did I write that or are you making a joke , a point? Help me out

ok so I’ll have to figure out how to load them, but go out and look at your own car and report back if you are a trained professional!! If it’s the crankshaft, it’s out of spec, but it will not self destruct or cause oil to pour out of a rubber seal. That’s not what we are highlighting, but when you see the car with 104k and the car With 38 k you will see the problem. Just have to figure out how you will be able to see it.
 

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Trained professionals only!!!

No one here from the decades of working on running engines?
Adjust the dwell angle of the ignition points? Alan key through distributor cap window on running engine.
Adjust timing? Connect timing light trigger wire to hot plug wire, hold timing light to crankshaft damper, rotate distributor with other hand on running engine.
Adjust valves on engine with solid lifters? Remove valve cover, slide feeler guage under rocker arm while adjusting gap on the running engine. (Not only working on moving parts, get sprayed with hot oil)
Find the bad plug or plug wire? Yup, pull live wire sequentially around the engine.
The shop manuals would tell you to stop the engine, make adjustment restart engine, rinse repeat. No one ever did.
Bringing back memories of the 70s...You must have worked on GM cars too. Adjusting the dwell through the window in the distributor cap was a GM thing. Guilty of the above with the substitution of hydraulic lifters for solid. That is not the same as putting your finger close to the front of the engine with belts and other rotating bits. I did draw the danger line somewhere and I still have all my fingers (albeit with a few scars).
 

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Trained professionals only!!!

No one here from the decades of working on running engines?
Adjust the dwell angle of the ignition points? Alan key through distributor cap window on running engine.
Adjust timing? Connect timing light trigger wire to hot plug wire, hold timing light to crankshaft damper, rotate distributor with other hand on running engine.
Adjust valves on engine with solid lifters? Remove valve cover, slide feeler guage under rocker arm while adjusting gap on the running engine. (Not only working on moving parts, get sprayed with hot oil)
Find the bad plug or plug wire? Yup, pull live wire sequentially around the engine.
The shop manuals would tell you to stop the engine, make adjustment restart engine, rinse repeat. No one ever did.
I bought a project boat in my younger days which to my surprise had a mercury inboard with a points distributor, I had to sheepishly ask my dad to come with his Reader's Digest auto manual and show me how to set the points. I did end up buying a dwell Tach, but the engine ran so well I never needed to do anything to it.
 
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