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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sometimes I wish they'd use neon paint and block letters on the vehicle to say "JACK GOES HERE" and "JACK STAND GOES HERE". Those thin ridges are fragile-looking that they keep me quite on edge. Making matters more difficult, my jack is only 14" high so I have to use a makeshift extension before lowering it on the jack stand.

Could someone with a kind heart and a little time on their hands go out with a cell phone, take a snap of the area under the passenger door (if it makes a difference, that's where I jack it up from) and use paint to say "jack goes here" and "stand goes here"? It'd take quite a load off the nerves.

Thanks~
 

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It’s raining and like 35° here so I’m hoping someone with better weather might be able to help you out. Below is the illustration from the manual. You’ll see those little notches in the pinch weld to locate the proper spot.
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In the mean time the slotted rubber jack pad in @Titanrx8’s post below might help alleviate some anxiety.
 

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You'll need it off the ground if you're going to rotate the tires too. Lifting at the front plate/rear diff and using jack stands works out well.
 

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I change our outbacks oil without raising it at all.
I used to do that too. I've done it with the Ascent too, but I used ramps most recently. The pan is farther in or something due to the longer overhang. The ramps made it comfortable enough to roll over to grab tools. ...and I've put on a couple pounds. lol.
 

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Having the front raised on ramps helps with a more complete drain of the oil as well since the drain plug is on the rear face of the sump. It might not make that much of a difference but I’d say it makes some...
Ramps aren’t expensive and if your interested enough in doing your own oil changes, one oil change will likely pay for the ramps. If not, they’ll be paid for after two. Not to mention being quicker and safer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There’s not much room (for me) to shimmy under there with it on the ground, and using a creeper is right out.

Don't forget the jack stands for safety.
This is kind of the problem I had in mind. Figuring out where the jack goes is one thing; figuring out where the jack and the jack stand goes is another. I’ve tried pumping the jack at the last moment fast enough to bounce the car up a little so I can swap them out, but that’s no good; almost pinched my finger a couple times. The jack points in Merope’s post look good too, but I’m similarly unsure of where the jack stands go.


I’ve seen the Fumoto drain valves mentioned here enough to look into them. Lots of sites suggest the F108__ is the correct size, but what seems like their main site (Fumoto® USA | Quick and Easy Engine Oil Drain Valves) only goes up to 2017 model Subarus.



I like the idea of ramps to simplify safety and other factors, but shockingly timid about using them — the thought of driving up and over/off of them is intimidating. It's mostly the thought though; I've never actually used them. Is telling when you're 'on' them pretty straight forward or does it take any nuance to know when the vehicle is set correctly?
 

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Ramps (at least mine) have a raised “chock” at the front and a less prominent ridge at the rear of the flat area for the face of the tire to sit in. If you are being careful, I think it would be hard to drive over them. I got my wife to park her Forester (when we had it) on ramps. She didn’t like it but with some spirited hand gestures from me was able to do it without incident...
 

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This is kind of the problem I had in mind. Figuring out where the jack goes is one thing; figuring out where the jack and the jack stand goes is another.


I’ve seen the Fumoto drain valves mentioned here enough to look into them. Lots of sites suggest the F108__ is the correct size, but what seems like their main site (Fumoto® USA | Quick and Easy Engine Oil Drain Valves) only goes up to 2017 model Subarus.



I like the idea of ramps to simplify safety and other factors, but shockingly timid about using them — the thought of driving up and over/off of them is intimidating. It's mostly the thought though; I've never actually used them. Is telling when you're 'on' them pretty straight forward or does it take any nuance to know when the vehicle is set correctly?
For the rear it's pretty straight forward. Place floor jack under rear diff, jack stand at the pinch welds. For the front, I have never placed on stands, partly because I havent had to, and partly because I am unsure if my skid plates block the cross member. I have always used ramps for needed installation room, or the jack points if removing the wheel.

For the Fumoto, I used the F108S on both my Subies including the Ascent.

Ramps are always easier especially if someone can tell you when you are on. Just pull in, place ramps and drive up. Plus you get to rev the engine from time to time and not go anywhere trying to get up the ramps. It is a weird feeling knowing you need to back up before going forward.
 

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This is kind of the problem I had in mind. Figuring out where the jack goes is one thing; figuring out where the jack and the jack stand goes is another.
Combine jack points from @Merope’s post #4 with @FourMoBro’s post #12. You won’t have to worry about where to post the stands and Jack in close vicinity or attempting anything dangerous. You can hear the stands flexing as they take the weight.
A recent lesson learned on my part: don’t use jack stands on asphalt without support beneath them; they slowly sink!
 

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I like the idea of ramps to simplify safety and other factors, but shockingly timid about using them — the thought of driving up and over/off of them is intimidating. It's mostly the thought though; I've never actually used them. Is telling when you're 'on' them pretty straight forward or does it take any nuance to know when the vehicle is set correctly?
Most ramps have a bumper at the end which would make it hard to drive off the end of the ramp. Getting up on ramps is far easier if you drive with both feet.

  1. Keep your left foot on the brake and your right foot on the gas.
  2. While holding the car stationary with your left foot, give it enough gas to increase engine speed to 1,500 rpm or similar (in drive). Keep your right foot steady now.
  3. Ease off the brake slightly with your left foot until the car just starts to creep forward. Modulate vehicle speed with your left/brake foot, not with your right/gas foot. Let it creep up the ramp. You should not need to add more gas, but don't let off the gas, either. Just ease up on the brake. The car will crawl up the ramp.
  4. When you feel like you're at or near the top, don't let off the gas! Keep the power on and increase left foot/brake if you want to stop. You'll eventually feel the front wheels crest the top of the ramp and into their "pads". I keep crawling forward until they hit the bump stops at the end.
  5. When you feel this, hard on the brake, let off the gas, and then put the transmission into neutral.
  6. Let off the brake, let the car settle out where it will, then parking brake, transmission in park, and step out and see how you did.
I like the plastic Rhino brand ramps. They have a very robust webbing structure within and I think you'd feel very safe seeing how they're constructed. I don't care for the old school metal ramps.
 

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Most ramps have a bumper at the end which would make it hard to drive off the end of the ramp. Getting up on ramps is far easier if you drive with both feet.

  1. Keep your left foot on the brake and your right foot on the gas.
  2. While holding the car stationary with your left foot, give it enough gas to increase engine speed to 1,500 rpm or similar (in drive). Keep your right foot steady now.
  3. Ease off the brake slightly with your left foot until the car just starts to creep forward. Modulate vehicle speed with your left/brake foot, not with your right/gas foot. Let it creep up the ramp. You should not need to add more gas, but don't let off the gas, either. Just ease up on the brake. The car will crawl up the ramp.
  4. When you feel like you're at or near the top, don't let off the gas! Keep the power on and increase left foot/brake if you want to stop. You'll eventually feel the front wheels crest the top of the ramp and into their "pads". I keep crawling forward until they hit the bump stops at the end.
  5. When you feel this, hard on the brake, let off the gas, and then put the transmission into neutral.
  6. Let off the brake, let the car settle out where it will, then parking brake, transmission in park, and step out and see how you did.
I like the plastic Rhino brand ramps. They have a very robust webbing structure within and I think you'd feel very safe seeing how they're constructed. I don't care for the old school metal ramps.
For us belt and suspenders type:
7. Wheel chocks at the opposite end of the vehicle.
 

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Most ramps have a bumper at the end which would make it hard to drive off the end of the ramp. Getting up on ramps is far easier if you drive with both feet.

  1. Keep your left foot on the brake and your right foot on the gas.
  2. While holding the car stationary with your left foot, give it enough gas to increase engine speed to 1,500 rpm or similar (in drive). Keep your right foot steady now.
  3. Ease off the brake slightly with your left foot until the car just starts to creep forward. Modulate vehicle speed with your left/brake foot, not with your right/gas foot. Let it creep up the ramp. You should not need to add more gas, but don't let off the gas, either. Just ease up on the brake. The car will crawl up the ramp.
  4. When you feel like you're at or near the top, don't let off the gas! Keep the power on and increase left foot/brake if you want to stop. You'll eventually feel the front wheels crest the top of the ramp and into their "pads". I keep crawling forward until they hit the bump stops at the end.
  5. When you feel this, hard on the brake, let off the gas, and then put the transmission into neutral.
  6. Let off the brake, let the car settle out where it will, then parking brake, transmission in park, and step out and see how you did.
I like the plastic Rhino brand ramps. They have a very robust webbing structure within and I think you'd feel very safe seeing how they're constructed. I don't care for the old school metal ramps.
Rhino ramps easy as eating cake. I used it also for my silverado and tundra.
 

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Man, I read quite a few amazon reviews of rhino ramps (rhino gear) buckling under load. After reading just a few I was pretty shocked for the 16,000 lb load rating. Just made me question using them. I know there is counterfeit products on amazon too and you cant believe everything, but for a product like this i’d hope there is zero reviews like that !
 

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I see some images of newer Rhino ramps that seem to have just one main rib underneath the ramp, like these. But are those genuine Rhino brand? I don't know. This page shows the bottom of what I think is the current design. Neither of those are like mine. I think mine are the first generation (I think I've had them for 15 years), and look like this underneath:

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Blitz has changed the design of these things over the years and it looks like the current ones are supposed to be stackable. The pictures I see of cracked ramps appear to be the newer ones. I can't imagine mine ever cracking, but I'm glad someone mentioned it, as I was not aware the design had changed over time.

Of course, there's also the approach of building wood ramps. There are several pictures and photographs of that on the internet.
 
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