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What muscle car did you own, I started with a 68 goat,
Nice!!! I loved the GTO's of that era!!! One of my classmates when I was in high school had one.

1963 Chevy Biscayne (poor man's Impala), straight 6, 2 speed Powerglide. I eventually put a used 350 and a TH350 in there when the 450K mile straight 6 started popping plugs out of the sockets (a mechanic had partially cross threaded a couple or used the wrong ones, and wore part of the threading), the used 350 cracked a piston along the ring ridge going up the Throgs Neck Bridge, and I had to be towed home from there. I then built my own 350, put it in there, and drove it until it was crashed into a guardrail.

1965 Chevy Impala SS 283, 4 speed Muncie gearbox. The original 283 was toast when I got it, so I got it for a great price. Swapped in my 350 with a shatter plate and new bell housing and later model starter to mesh with everything.

My best friend at the time had a 1970 Ford Mustang fastback with the 351W. We spent a lot of time working on cars together, lol.
 

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Robert any good mechanic when it comes to brakes will not diagnose a problem with out a visual inspection as we would both agree, that is all I am saying. I have never had such a problem with brakes especially on a new vehicle.
 

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Robert any good mechanic when it comes to brakes will not diagnose a problem with out a visual inspection as we would both agree, that is all I am saying.
Agreed. I have the advantage of having talked to many thousands of Ascent owners, and (besides my car) following this through many people.

I have never had such a problem with brakes especially on a new vehicle.
I haven't either.

My key point is, when brakes and pads (Rev B-D) seem to be working for most, but not all, then there's got to be something external. Subaru has been following this, and there are TSB's related to this... they all turn to proper pad bedding. I think the issue may be the ease in having consistent pad bedding over a variety of driving and weather circumstances - heck, letting the car sit for days at a time will cause surface pitting that I am pretty sure won't help break-in).

The design changes all seem to focus around easier ability to bed the pads properly so they don't pulse glaze the rotors and cause vibrations or noise.
 

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Nice!!! I loved the GTO's of that era!!! One of my classmates when I was in high school had one.

1963 Chevy Biscayne (poor man's Impala), straight 6, 2 speed Powerglide. I eventually put a used 350 and a TH350 in there when the 450K mile straight 6 started popping plugs out of the sockets (a mechanic had partially cross threaded a couple or used the wrong ones, and wore part of the threading), the used 350 cracked a piston along the ring ridge going up the Throgs Neck Bridge, and I had to be towed home from there. I then built my own 350, put it in there, and drove it until it was crashed into a guardrail.

1965 Chevy Impala SS 283, 4 speed Muncie gearbox. The original 283 was toast when I got it, so I got it for a great price. Swapped in my 350 with a shatter plate and new bell housing and later model starter to mesh with everything.

My best friend at the time had a 1970 Ford Mustang fastback with the 351W. We spent a lot of time working on cars together, lol.

Do you still have the 65, Great times driving and fixing, tach and dwells, setting points my old equipment has not come out of my snap-on tool box's in years I preferred the Cleveland engines , after all said and done my 73 convertible corvette with a total resto I did was my last full job.
 

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Oh, so one other thing I have noticed (and the NHTSA reports reflect) is that with each new pad revision, there's less complaints and more pads bedding properly. So, at least that's something. Mine will go on in a couple of weeks, but, I won't have anything to report back that I think would be meaningful for 15,000-20,000 miles, to see if they are still quiet at the point my originals started vibrating.
 

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Do you still have the 65, Great times driving and fixing, tach and dwells, setting points my old equipment has not come out of my snap-on tool box's in years I preferred the Cleveland engines , after all said and done my 73 convertible corvette with a total resto I did was my last full job.
I wish. I sold it for a 1988 Hyundai Excel GLS 2 door hatch. My Ascent, while towing, can get better 0-60 speeds than it could while not towing, lol!!! I'm in a "one car only" apartment right now. One day, I have plans for a project car (that's not my Ascent and its ever evolving suspension, lol).
 

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Agreed. I have the advantage of having talked to many thousands of Ascent owners, and (besides my car) following this through many people.


I haven't either.

My key point is, when brakes and pads (Rev B-D) seem to be working for most, but not all, then there's got to be something external. Subaru has been following this, and there are TSB's related to this... they all turn to proper pad bedding. I think the issue may be the ease in having consistent pad bedding over a variety of driving and weather circumstances - heck, letting the car sit for days at a time will cause surface pitting that I am pretty sure won't help break-in).

The design changes all seem to focus around easier ability to bed the pads properly so they don't pulse glaze the rotors and cause vibrations or noise.
In my opinion I would focus on the Rotors. the rotors can not perform as they are supposed too, ie (heat )which in turn effects the pads.
 

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I wish. I sold it for a 1988 Hyundai Excel GLS 2 door hatch. My Ascent, while towing, can get better 0-60 speeds than it could while not towing, lol!!! I'm in a "one car only" apartment right now. One day, I have plans for a project car (that's not my Ascent and its ever evolving suspension, lol).

wow what a change.
 

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I recently did aftermarket drilled/slotted rotors / better pads on another vehicle, with success.

@ K9cop Would you mind sharing what you bought for the Ascent?

Thing is, the Ascent’s factory brakes are excellent when they’re new and working. Excellent initial bite and power. And I paid a crapload of money for Subaru’s 6yr warranty for crap like this. I’d like them to just freakin’ fix the issue for good.

This is their flagship SUV in the most competitive market there is. They really need to pay attention here.
I took a nice long drive this past Sunday up to Port Jervis NY the new slotted/drilled rotors and the new pads performed very well no chatter or pulsing and no warping of the rotors from the mountain decline and hard brake applying , approximately 7 hours of driving.
 

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I took a nice long drive this past Sunday up to Port Jervis NY the new slotted/drilled rotors and the new pads performed very well no chatter or pulsing and no warping of the rotors from the mountain decline and hard brake applying , approximately 7 hours of driving.
Nice. How is the initial bite on the R1 pads vs OEM? Same? Better?
Sometimes aftermarket pads need more heat to get a nice bite, sometimes not.
 
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