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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I don't need one yet but I was looking ahead to future maintenance. Thats when I saw the pad kit on parts.subaru.com for $215. Thats $430 in just parts for all 4 wheels, for just pads!

Is there something special about our brakes that makes pads so expensive?
On the part picture there's 8 pieces shown, so what are the thinner pieces for?

Rotors don't seem over priced, but those calipers, ouch!
I may have to lay off the ACC if I find out its wearing my brake pads quickly. I tend to use the brakes very little when I'm doing the driving so pads have lasted a long time on past vehicles.
 

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The other parts are just the shims for the pads. They stop noise, help dampen vibration, and act as a thermal barrier.

There will be plenty of options on the market by the time you wear out the pads. The dealer prices are just for suckers.
 

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Too soon IMO .... i traded my Crosstrack with 89K miles on it and original pads rotors ...
still have 60-70% life in pads , i got replacements at 60k and they still unopened in my garage...
 

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Good question. I'm looking forward to everybody's input.

I did a quick search on subarupartswarehouse.com for those part numbers and they're selling for 32% off, so prices won't be as bad as full retail, but still pretty high!
The last time I did a brake job was on my 2012 Outback. I used Centric rotors and posi-quiet pads from tirerack.com. They performed very well and would have no problem using them in the future. Right now, Tire rack has one of the pad sets (perhaps the rear?) under $50.

Unless there is something very special with the OEM pads, I will be going with high quality aftermarket stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Too soon IMO .... i traded my Crosstrack with 89K miles on it and original pads rotors ...
still have 60-70% life in pads , i got replacements at 60k and they still unopened in my garage...
Good plan. Trade in the car when it needs new brakes! I’m not even kidding... I traded in last car in when it needed an oil change, had an empty gas tank, and a windshield crack!
 

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2019 Ascent Touring (CWP)
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Good plan. Trade in the car when it needs new brakes! I’m not even kidding... I traded in last car in when it needed an oil change, had an empty gas tank, and a windshield crack!
The Grand Cherokee I just sold still had original brakes on the front at 108K miles and still passing inspection so that's kinda a similar thing. The rears would have been original too, outside of damage to a rotor by a stray bolt at 88K which required replacements to mitigate. Some of us just don't really use our brakes. :) :D In all seriousness, folks who do a lot of highway miles are going to get far more life on brakes as measured by miles than folks who do a lot of city driving. That was my case...mostly highway due to work travel prior to retirement.
 

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Wagner brand daily driver quality brake pads for an Ascent are $25 on Rockauto (a very good place to buy parts, fyi).

If you fancy yourself in a hurry, the Power Stop performance oriented pads will break the bank at $32.
 

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I'm finding brakes typically last me 70-80k and now only go with OEM now as aftermarket has disappointed several times now. Either too much brake dust or brake pedal feel was not very good.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm finding brakes typically last me 70-80k and now only go with OEM now as aftermarket has disappointed several times now. Either too much brake dust or brake pedal feel was not very good.
I agree somewhat with the aftermarket rotors and pads. It can be risky. Sure they’re cheaper but if they rust, are loud, or generally don’t feel as good its not worth saving a few $ or the time spent changing them more than once.
I hope the OEM do last 80k miles or more. I just use ACC a lot (almost all the time) so I’m wondering if that’ll cause extra wear. Only time will tell.
 

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I agree somewhat with the aftermarket rotors and pads. It can be risky. Sure they’re cheaper but if they rust, are loud, or generally don’t feel as good its not worth saving a few $ or the time spent changing them more than once.
I hope the OEM do last 80k miles or more. I just use ACC a lot (almost all the time) so I’m wondering if that’ll cause extra wear. Only time will tell.
Yep. I don't skimp on rotors either especially on SUVs as the cheap ones warp really easy when towing in the mountains. I go OEM, high carbon or cyro frozen.
 

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Has anyone figured out the trick with doing the rear brakes with the electronic parking brake. I did them on my 2016 OB and it was a PITA. Subaru wants you to put the computer in Brake Maintenance Mode which retracts the solenoids on the rear calipers. I did it with out the computer with the electronic plugs disconnected and the battery disconnected but still end up getting a cluster full of lights. Had to drive it to the dealer with the plugs disconnected and they reset it for 80 dollars after they complimented me on how well I did the job.

Fronts do not have that issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Has anyone figured out the trick with doing the rear brakes with the electronic parking brake.
I don't believe theres a trick...
When I removed my rear calipers I just released the electronic parking brake, unplugged the wire to the solenoid and took the whole thing off. The brake warning light only stayed on until I plugged the parking brake solenoid back in.
 

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I don't believe theres a trick...
When I removed my rear calipers I just released the electronic parking brake, unplugged the wire to the solenoid and took the whole thing off. The brake warning light only stayed on until I plugged the parking brake solenoid back in.
Yeah. Did you not have to screw the caliper piston back in to make room for the new pads? The issue is if the solenoid isn't backed all the way out and you press the caliper piston against it you will damage it. I don't believe it fully retracts out of the way unless it's in maintenance mode. I have to pull the pages from my OB TSM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah. Did you not have to screw the caliper piston back in to make room for the new pads? The issue is if the solenoid isn't backed all the way out and you press the caliper piston against it you will damage it. I don't believe it fully retracts out of the way unless it's in maintenance mode. I have to pull the pages from my OB TSM.
I didn't install new pads so I didn't have to move anything. That could be the difference. I just removed it and disassembled it for painting.
 

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I didn't install new pads so I didn't have to move anything. That could be the difference. I just removed it and disassembled it for painting.
Yup. That's the difference. I took the solenoids off the caliper then reinstalled after I pressed(spun) the pistons to the retracted position. They wanted a crazy amount of money to do the rear pads. Even with the 80 dollars to reset the computer it was still cheaper.

Every time I plugged the solenoid back in it would clamp the parking brake then not let me release it. I had to manual release them then leave it unplugged to to get it to the dealer. I probably undid them 3 times.
 

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See attached FSM for a 2016 OB. Can't see the Ascent being any different.
The stuff is in slightly different places, and looks a little different, but otherwise, the instructions pretty much match for the Ascent, including using an SSM to put the car in Brake Maintenance Mode. (SSM v4 in the case of the Ascent)
 

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What is odd is the instructions say you can do it without the SSM at the bottom under section D "Note". It's almost contradictory.
 
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