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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Where are the jack points (with a floor jack, not the scissor jack that comes with the vehicle for spare tire) for our vehicles? I assume the rear jack point is the rear diff but I didn't see anything obvious for the front. Nice to know this for tire rotation and seasonal changeover.

My dealer is selling sets of OEM 18" wheel from the base model Ascent for about $230 CAD each. Still deciding whether to get them or go aftermarket for winter set. These base model rims look kind of ugly. What's the weight for these 18" OEM? And where can I find load ratings for aftermarket rims? Tirerack doesn't have any load ratings for their rims.
 

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I don’t have an Ascent to check, but the front point for Subarus has been a plate where the subframes are bolted on. On the Crosstrek this is behind the oil pan and should be the same spot for the Ascent because of the global platform. You’ll have to crawl under there and double check. It’s pretty obvious when you see it.
 

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Ignore me! lol. didn't read OP
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks. I crawled under the front and saw a cross member plate just behind the oil drain plug and in front of what looks like the transmission pan. That's gotta be it.
 

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My dealer is selling sets of OEM 18" wheel from the base model Ascent for about $230 CAD each. Still deciding whether to get them or go aftermarket for winter set. These base model rims look kind of ugly. What's the weight for these 18" OEM? And where can I find load ratings for aftermarket rims? Tirerack doesn't have any load ratings for their rims.
How about these for a set of winters? Discount Tire Direct does ship to Canada.
https://www.discounttiredirect.com/buy-wheels/mb-wheels-wynter/p/62317
1876 load rating on the wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How about these for a set of winters? Discount Tire Direct does ship to Canada.
https://www.discounttiredirect.com/buy-wheels/mb-wheels-wynter/p/62317
1876 load rating on the wheels.
I don't like that style too much. I have been looking at this website too and like the Drag DR-67 the most but would have to go to 19" to get the load rating that I like. However, shipping + customs fee are killers when they ship to Canada.

I saw that you have the 18" OEM for sale. I'll post some questions over in that thread. Thanks.
 

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Thanks. I crawled under the front and saw a cross member plate just behind the oil drain plug and in front of what looks like the transmission pan. That's gotta be it.
Did that end up working out for the front jack point? I'd shot a pix of the area the other day...circled what I think you're referring to. It seemed far back to me, but don't see any other options.
 

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Did that end up working out for the front jack point? I'd shot a pix of the area the other day...circled what I think you're referring to. It seemed far back to me, but don't see any other options.
I don't think I'd use that to jack up the car.
 

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These images may help visualize the jack points. Had I seen this thread prior to the tire swap, I’d have snapped a photo of the rear tire off the ground. But the jack is positioned directly underneath the point.
 

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Yeah it seems that the Ascent relies on the pinch weld jack points. They are the same ones that are used for the road side emergency jack.

You can get a floor jack adapter for the pinch welds to keep from crushing them or a hockey puck with a slit in it.

Sometimes it is tough to get a floor jack and jack stand all in the same spot which is why secondary jack stand points would be nice.
 

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Jack stands are kinda important for safety, too....
 

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Here is how I rotate/change tires on my subarus:


1.Break loose all lug nuts
2. Jack up the rear end using a floor jack on the rear diff. I put a 2.5lb plate from my weight set to give a nice flat surface. I don't bother with jack stands anymore for this.

3. Scissor jack one front side
4. Remove front.
5. Remove same side back, place front on rear.
6. Remove other rear, place on empty front.
7. Scissor down, scissor up opposite side.
8. Remove front, place on empty rear
9. Replace front with remaining wheel
10. SCissor down, rear jack down
11. Torque all to ~120Nm


*and yes, I hand tighten all bolts when putting them on with tire in the air before lowering.


Takes about 15mins total if I am deliberate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Did that end up working out for the front jack point? I'd shot a pix of the area the other day...circled what I think you're referring to. It seemed far back to me, but don't see any other options.
Yes, that crossmember in your picture is exactly what I used back in November to mount my winter wheels + Nokian Hakka 9 SUV studded tires. It's solid and worked fine. Just make sure you center your jack on it width-wise and use the rubber pad that comes with your jack so you won't scratch the paint. Make sure your jack is big enough for the job. Those tiny 1-2 ton jacks are too small and are harder to reach back there. I use my 3-1/2 ton jack and it has a long handle so it can reach no problem. Also make sure to chock the back of the rear wheels when you're lifting the front end and chock the front of the front wheels when lifting the back end.

In summary, if you don't have a jack big enough to do this safely or don't feel comfortable doing it then do it the slower & safer way other ppl posted above. Otherwise, it's still perfectly safe if you do it correctly. Just don't crawl under the car while it's on jack, need jack stands or ramps for that.
 

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For what it's worth, the FSM for the current gen Outback seems to list the similar central front cradle as the front jacking point with a "garage jack." The rear differential is the rear jacking point. Subaru documentation appears to have listed these same points as far back as the 02-07 Impreza (and possibly further). It is frustrating that this isn't clearly listed in the owner's manual for those of us that DIY, but I am sure there are reasons why.

Thread from SubaruOutback.org

 

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Awesome. That is how I floor jacked my truck. The front cross member and the rear diff. It's surprising that they show these jack points of the outback, but not the Ascent. Once lifted you can then use the pinch welds for the jack stands.

I still hate resting a car on pinch welds, but some of the frame members on unibody cars are too soft and make me uncomfortable. Ill have to look into getting some pinch weld jack stand caps so I don't destroy them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I will take some photos of my car being lifted using these center jack points when I put OEM wheels back on this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I've just finished doing seasonal changeover for my Ascent and here are some pics I took. Sorry this website has a tendency to rotate the photos upside down after uploading. The first 2 photos are fine on my phone & PC but upside down once uploaded here. If a mod can fix that, it'd be appreciated.
 

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