[BobaruCA]

My 2019 Ascent is almost two years old. It's now at my Subaru dealer for a one-week computer hookup to try to identify why I've been to service five times for failure-to-start, dead-battery-type issues. It's an intermittent problem (of course it doesn't hurt when you go to the doctor). Lights were not left on and tailgate not left open. Original OEM battery was replaced at incident #1 just months after getting the car in summer 2018. Other incidents occurred after parking for 30 minutes while shopping and twice when not driving for several days. I read all the forum blogs about switching to non-Subaru battery, but I need a FOR SURE solution because I camp in remote areas. Has anyone identified a non-battery electrical or starting issue with their Ascent? I may be heading for lemon-law territory.

 

[FirstSubie]

I usually don't reply in the negative, because then someone finally chimes in... but maybe it's safe after crickets chirping for 2 days ? I don't think I've read anything about electrical issues that aren't the battery, except wiring harness issues that were the root cause of some transmission problems (recall was posted to check the harness and replace if it had the problem, and also replace transmission if it got impacted by the fault). Nothing else rings a bell.
F.S.

 

[ratbag]

A few posts here about mice eating the wiring harnesses, always a possibility.

 

[10986]

2 x Subaru branded OEM batteries from the factory that the dealership said had "suspect cells" that were high resistance, and finally the TSB work completed last week for the high-current rear tailgate control module (with a TSB # i can't put my finger on right now), and my electrical issues are behind me.

Call the mothership @ 1-800-782-2783 , talk to a customer advocate and tell them about your recurrent issues. Worked for me, and I even got a month car payment refunded for my troubles.

 

[Merope]

Did you verify the open TG current drain after the TSB? The TSB wording is vague on this and I don't know of anybody that has verified it's fixed the open TG current drain.

 

[10986]

paperwork listed post-fix 20mAh draw, prior to fix was >3 Ah.

Left the liftgate open for 30 minutes and car started up just fine on same battery that was in before the fix.

 

[Luis Padilla]

paperwork listed post-fix 20mAh draw, prior to fix was >3 Ah.

Left the liftgate open for 30 minutes and car started up just fine on same battery that was in before the fix.

Thats a big difference,glad it’s fixed.
Can you go more into what was done ?

 

[10986]

They replaced the trunk control module which they reported had a failure mode that would allow it to go into a "high current mode" and kill the battery. Battery tested as "good enough to pass". Part had a 3 day shipping time, so they had some in a warehouse somewhere...unlike the brakes which also had a reported issue with for the "chronic squeaking", and would be assigned a date for repair when the factory opened up after the pandemic shutdown and the parts became available again.

win some, los...win some later.

 

[Merope]

paperwork listed post-fix 20mAh draw, prior to fix was >3 Ah...

Interesting. That's something I will want to verify myself.

 

[Q-Man13]

paperwork listed post-fix 20mAh draw, prior to fix was >3 Ah.

Left the liftgate open for 30 minutes and car started up just fine on same battery that was in before the fix.

Now try it for 4-6+ hours. 30 minutes isn't enough time to drain the battery.

I've been fine at 30 minutes but needing a jump when I accidentally leave the TG up overnight.

 

[10986]

around 30 minutes was how long it used to take to kill my battery, with 2 hrs being the kiss of death...i'm starting small.

I'm going to hook up my inline meter to the battery and watch it for a whole day this weekend.

 

[Merope]

Inline meter? You might consider getting a DC capable clamp ammeter. Pretty cheep on Amazon. Way easier than putting something in line, and not likely to get fried.

 

[nkkr]

Inline meter? You might consider getting a DC capable clamp ammeter. Pretty cheep on Amazon. Way easier than putting something in line, and not likely to get fried.

Anyone else feel it's completely ridiculous that customers would need to be monitoring the current draw on a new 2019 car? This isn't the 1950s. We bought (what we thought) was a super reliable Japanese automotive appliance to transport the family around. If I wanted another freaking craft project, I'd buy an Airfix.

 

[xydadx3]

Anyone else feel it's completely ridiculous that customers would need to be monitoring the current draw on a new 2019 car?

yes

Maybe Subaru will fix it, maybe not. The Ascent has still been a great car for me nonetheless.

 

[nkkr]

When it works, our Ascent Limited is a really nice car. But, we've had too many failures, including spending a day stuck in the middle of the Bremerton ferry, going backwards and forwards. None of the jump boxes on the ferry had the current to get the car started, or even get enough current to release the electrical emergency brake (why is there no manual override on that!?). And was incredibly hard to line up a tow to intersect with the ferry arriving on shore. Two small kids loved the first trip or two, and then it got really old.

 

[10986]

Inline meter? You might consider getting a DC capable clamp ammeter. Pretty cheep on Amazon. Way easier than putting something in line, and not likely to get fried.

I have a Fluke that gives me the resolution that I want (for other projects) that I've always used for diagnosing parasitic drains on installs in police cars, fire-rescue units, ambulances, other emergency vehicles, should handle my grocery getter well enough. Plus, I can log it over time.

 

[Merope]

As we like to say, "If it works, it's a Fluke."

Yeah. I too have a Fluke and several other DVMs and meters. Clamp-on AC/DC is nice. Just put it over the wire and you're good. You don't need to interrupt power to the sytem, or turn it off, and no futzing with making solid connections when hooking up a meter in series.

Also, no fuses to blow. My DVMs are limited to 10A DC and that can easily be exceeded hooked up in series to the Ascent's battery.

 

[Dale Biesecker]

My 2019 Ascent is almost two years old. It's now at my Subaru dealer for a one-week computer hookup to try to identify why I've been to service five times for failure-to-start, dead-battery-type issues. It's an intermittent problem (of course it doesn't hurt when you go to the doctor). Lights were not left on and tailgate not left open. Original OEM battery was replaced at incident #1 just months after getting the car in summer 2018. Other incidents occurred after parking for 30 minutes while shopping and twice when not driving for several days. I read all the forum blogs about switching to non-Subaru battery, but I need a FOR SURE solution because I camp in remote areas. Has anyone identified a non-battery electrical or starting issue with their Ascent? I may be heading for lemon-law territory.

Had the same issue. Then our dealer said that OEM Subaru batteries made by Panasonic but labeled Subaru were defective. Switched it for a new Subaru Battery which looks identical but has more cold cranking hours and the problem disappeared. Apparently this is common knowledge at Subaru. Good luck

 

[Robert.Mauro]

The Subaru batteries I've seen in the Ascent, at least through 2018, 2019 and part of 2020 when I've checked, are made by Johnson Controls (now known as Clarios), who makes many OEM batteries and many name brands that people know. Was yours different?

 

[Dabiesecker]

Thy told me that it was made by Panasonic, but I really don’t know.