Thought I'd share some comments and detail concerning my Dashcam implementation and mounting in my 2023 Ascent Touring. The Dashcam model is the BlackVue DR900S-2CH with the Power Magic Pro (PMP) accessory to provide for Parking Mode operation. So there were several issues to tackle: 1) Location consistent with Eyesight Forbidden Area Rules, 2) Wife mandated requirement for no visible wires and 3) The need for two 12V taps - one switched and one constantly on for the PMP parking mode state.
Addressing the first of these requirements, the Eyesight restrictions, I was able to take advantage of the more relaxed limits of the 2023 Eyesight camera arrangement. After studying discussions on this site as well as many on the Outback, Forester and Crosstrek sites, I became convinced that the best way to verify that my mounting arrangement did not degrade the Eyesight capability was to actually test the impact using Eyesights ability to report a disabling problem. To wit, I mounted the forward DR900S unit with temporary adhesives and proceeded to test daylight, twilight, dusk and nighttime driving conditions of the Adaptive Cruise Control, the Autodimming Headlight System, the Lane adjust system and rapid close approach frontal problems (using bushes). Firstly, I did these tests without the Dashcam mounted, discovering where Eyesight switched off posting its alert, then with the Dashcam mounted. In the end, my preferred mounting position on the camera cover behind the rear view smart mirror (see picture) showed no difference in Eyesight response compared to it not being present.
![Image]()
I include this picture to show the relationship to the rear view mirror, the placement of the PMP and to show the actual exposed wires in the arrangement (look between the PMP and the dash cam). Also notice that the Blackvue notation on the Dashcam is upside down. This is because I have it mounted so the wire connections enter on the Driver's side. This Dashcam has an internal GPS system, so the only connections required are DC power and the video coax from the rear camera.
For the second "no visible wires" mandate, I snaked the coax wire to the driver's left under the headliner, down the A-piller (on the door side to minimize overlap with the airbag) to the door sill opening, then along the door edge flooring to the 3rd row seating zone, then up the trim to edge defined by the plastic/ fabric interface and back to the lift gate trim. Threading the coax cable through the flexible channels to the lift gate was very straightforward using the WD40 technique described by many others, after the trim panels were removed. The excess cable length was left in the metal void in the lift gate structure. The rear camera was mounted in the area covered by the wiper blade clearing the SmartMirror camera.
The second part of no visible wires involved tapping the Ascent system for continuous and switched 12V. Here I tapped the Smart Mirror plug using the clever Dongar adapter first described (to my knowledge) by "madtowner" in his August 2023 comment in the thread entitled "Dash Cam?". This adapter inserts through a clean plug-in into the connector feeding power to the Smart Mirror and brings out to a modified USB-A connector the switched 12V feed power line for the mirror. The adapter I used is the 10 pin Toyota/Subaru device sold on the Dongar.com website. However, a judicious review of the wiring diagram for the 2023 plug supplying the Smart Mirror shows that pin A1 supplies switched power from fuse 19, pin A2 supplies system ground (these are the two wires brought out by the Dongar adapter) AND pin A6 has the continuous 12V feed from fuse 14. The Dongar adapter conveniently runs discreet wires between all 10 pins of the inlet and outlet connectors. Consequently, I made a new adapter containing the two original output wires and added my tap from pin A6 for my required three lines of continuous, switched 12V and ground.
Now there are often wire tapping objections from electrical engineers and I am only a retired scientist - no engineer. However, a few facts need to be considered. Inspecting the wiring diagram, Fuse 14, the source of continuous 12V, supports the Combination Meter, the Auto Headlight LevelerControl Module (CM), the Immobilizer CM, the Electronic Parking Brake switch, the REAR VIEW MIRROR, the Power Rear Gate CM, the TPMS and Keyless Entry CM, and the Eyesight Stereo Camera. Fuse 19 supports the Electronic Throttle ControlRelay, the Power Rear Gate Module, the TPMS and Keyless Entry CM, the RAB CM, the Left and Right Radar Sensors, the BSO switch, the Hazard switch, the REAR VIEW MIRROR, the Rain Sensor, the Glass Roof Control Module, the Shade Control Module, the Eyesight Stereo Camera and the Stop and Brake switches. In my test of Fuse 14 and Fuse 19 loads, the maximum current I have observed is 5.5 amps at 12.6V. Both fuses are rated at 10 amps. The Blackvue DR900s-2CH with both cameras recording to the embedded microSD card and with GPS activated and local WIFI, draws 0.364 to 0.411 amps at 12.55V (my measurements) for a total of 4.57 to 5.16 watts. I believe the additional camera load on these circuits is a minor addition to nominal operating load on the circuits of fuse 14 and 19. Finally, I will operate the Power Magic Pro device with settings for battery cutoff at 12.0V and for a maximum parking mode record time of 6 hours.
So, with the removal of the ceiling switch console with the map lights and a twist of the Smart mirror, I accessed the discussed power plug and then ran the three needed wires under the camera assembly and along (with cable ties) the camera feed wires in the area protected by the third camera cover. I bored a hole in that cover, sealed with matte duct tape and ran the wires down to the PMP module. System Completed. Adding a few additional pictures for some clarity.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
Addressing the first of these requirements, the Eyesight restrictions, I was able to take advantage of the more relaxed limits of the 2023 Eyesight camera arrangement. After studying discussions on this site as well as many on the Outback, Forester and Crosstrek sites, I became convinced that the best way to verify that my mounting arrangement did not degrade the Eyesight capability was to actually test the impact using Eyesights ability to report a disabling problem. To wit, I mounted the forward DR900S unit with temporary adhesives and proceeded to test daylight, twilight, dusk and nighttime driving conditions of the Adaptive Cruise Control, the Autodimming Headlight System, the Lane adjust system and rapid close approach frontal problems (using bushes). Firstly, I did these tests without the Dashcam mounted, discovering where Eyesight switched off posting its alert, then with the Dashcam mounted. In the end, my preferred mounting position on the camera cover behind the rear view smart mirror (see picture) showed no difference in Eyesight response compared to it not being present.
I include this picture to show the relationship to the rear view mirror, the placement of the PMP and to show the actual exposed wires in the arrangement (look between the PMP and the dash cam). Also notice that the Blackvue notation on the Dashcam is upside down. This is because I have it mounted so the wire connections enter on the Driver's side. This Dashcam has an internal GPS system, so the only connections required are DC power and the video coax from the rear camera.
For the second "no visible wires" mandate, I snaked the coax wire to the driver's left under the headliner, down the A-piller (on the door side to minimize overlap with the airbag) to the door sill opening, then along the door edge flooring to the 3rd row seating zone, then up the trim to edge defined by the plastic/ fabric interface and back to the lift gate trim. Threading the coax cable through the flexible channels to the lift gate was very straightforward using the WD40 technique described by many others, after the trim panels were removed. The excess cable length was left in the metal void in the lift gate structure. The rear camera was mounted in the area covered by the wiper blade clearing the SmartMirror camera.
The second part of no visible wires involved tapping the Ascent system for continuous and switched 12V. Here I tapped the Smart Mirror plug using the clever Dongar adapter first described (to my knowledge) by "madtowner" in his August 2023 comment in the thread entitled "Dash Cam?". This adapter inserts through a clean plug-in into the connector feeding power to the Smart Mirror and brings out to a modified USB-A connector the switched 12V feed power line for the mirror. The adapter I used is the 10 pin Toyota/Subaru device sold on the Dongar.com website. However, a judicious review of the wiring diagram for the 2023 plug supplying the Smart Mirror shows that pin A1 supplies switched power from fuse 19, pin A2 supplies system ground (these are the two wires brought out by the Dongar adapter) AND pin A6 has the continuous 12V feed from fuse 14. The Dongar adapter conveniently runs discreet wires between all 10 pins of the inlet and outlet connectors. Consequently, I made a new adapter containing the two original output wires and added my tap from pin A6 for my required three lines of continuous, switched 12V and ground.
Now there are often wire tapping objections from electrical engineers and I am only a retired scientist - no engineer. However, a few facts need to be considered. Inspecting the wiring diagram, Fuse 14, the source of continuous 12V, supports the Combination Meter, the Auto Headlight LevelerControl Module (CM), the Immobilizer CM, the Electronic Parking Brake switch, the REAR VIEW MIRROR, the Power Rear Gate CM, the TPMS and Keyless Entry CM, and the Eyesight Stereo Camera. Fuse 19 supports the Electronic Throttle ControlRelay, the Power Rear Gate Module, the TPMS and Keyless Entry CM, the RAB CM, the Left and Right Radar Sensors, the BSO switch, the Hazard switch, the REAR VIEW MIRROR, the Rain Sensor, the Glass Roof Control Module, the Shade Control Module, the Eyesight Stereo Camera and the Stop and Brake switches. In my test of Fuse 14 and Fuse 19 loads, the maximum current I have observed is 5.5 amps at 12.6V. Both fuses are rated at 10 amps. The Blackvue DR900s-2CH with both cameras recording to the embedded microSD card and with GPS activated and local WIFI, draws 0.364 to 0.411 amps at 12.55V (my measurements) for a total of 4.57 to 5.16 watts. I believe the additional camera load on these circuits is a minor addition to nominal operating load on the circuits of fuse 14 and 19. Finally, I will operate the Power Magic Pro device with settings for battery cutoff at 12.0V and for a maximum parking mode record time of 6 hours.
So, with the removal of the ceiling switch console with the map lights and a twist of the Smart mirror, I accessed the discussed power plug and then ran the three needed wires under the camera assembly and along (with cable ties) the camera feed wires in the area protected by the third camera cover. I bored a hole in that cover, sealed with matte duct tape and ran the wires down to the PMP module. System Completed. Adding a few additional pictures for some clarity.
