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So I decided to remove the Intake Air Duct off the ascent to see if I can hear intake swoosh(Had a 2015 Nissan Juke and by removing the snorkel you could hear the intake sucking air and release). Anyways did not work but the car sounds a little more aggressive now. Didnt get a chance to put it back on so I drove around without the snorkel for like 3 days. In those 3 days I noticed my gas mileage was better by about 2-3mpg. Decided to investigate it more and used torque app to compare data with it on and off. According to torque and take this with a grain a salt but the air fuel ratios did not drop low with the air duct off. With the duct on the lowest I would see is 11.2-11.4 and with it off I would see 11.8-12. Mass air flow sensor today recorded 232 g/s with duct on and 236 g/s duct off. Intake temperature did rise with duct off though and while Wide open Throttle it was 4-5 degrees hotter which means there is some heat soak. So I decided to modify the duct opening to be bigger. So far I have not done much testing with modified duct but Mass air flow recorded 235 g/s and air fuel ratio dropped down to 11.5. No idea about temps yet because I have to sort of do them around the same time so there is less variables involved and have not received my replacement air duct yet. I plan on closing the corners and have it fit over the gaps when i get a chance. I know I have too much time on my hands and im just doing my own aftermarket stuff until some real things come out.
 

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The stock ducts of most cars these days are a balance of air intake and sound deadening. The more cold air you get into the engine, the better. K&N and AEM (and others) make lots of money on upgraded intake systems - Cold Air Intake or CAI. They are always louder than stock though, so it's the tradeoff.

On my tiny 140hp 2L engine in my Hyundai Tiburon, I gained 7whp with an intake. I gained another 7whp with a tuned exhaust system as well. 14whp on a 120ish whp car was a lot!

With a turbo engine, there is less gain because the turbo is already sucking in tons of extra air, so the boost isn't as high. You still want a good clean run into the intake, but the CAI won't have the same effect as on an NA (Naturally Aspirated) engine. Looking at WRX STI dynos, they are gaining 10whp on a CAI.

If they make an Ascent CAI I might just get one. That paired with an exhaust system could make it even more efficient as well as more powerful (and sound meaner all at the same time).
 
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The stock ducts of most cars these days are a balance of air intake and sound deadening. The more cold air you get into the engine, the better. K&N and AEM (and others) make lots of money on upgraded intake systems - Cold Air Intake or CAI. They are always louder than stock though, so it's the tradeoff.

On my tiny 140hp 2L engine in my Hyundai Tiburon, I gained 7whp with an intake. I gained another 7whp with a tuned exhaust system as well. 14whp on a 120ish whp car was a lot!

With a turbo engine, there is less gain because the turbo is already sucking in tons of extra air, so the boost isn't as high. You still want a good clean run into the intake, but the CAI won't have the same effect as on an NA (Naturally Aspirated) engine. Looking at WRX STI dynos, they are gaining 10whp on a CAI.

If they make an Ascent CAI I might just get one. That paired with an exhaust system could make it even more efficient as well as more powerful (and sound meaner all at the same time).
How do you know you gained 7 hp with the intake? Did you dump it before and after?

I’d love to install a CAI on my diesel truck if I could verify real benefits!
 

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How do you know you gained 7 hp with the intake? Did you dump it before and after?

I’d love to install a CAI on my diesel truck if I could verify real benefits!
This was before the smartphone era, but I bought a machine that could record g-forces and such. It could also do a dyno pull run on the road and generate a hp/torque curve. I did 3 runs before changing it out and 3 runs afterwards. 7hp gain :D

You can do it these days with a phone app like Torque.

LOL, actually found my post from over a decade ago when I put my catback in!
https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/...haust-11/ark-catback-finally-installed-27902/

Then I reset my ECU and drove hard and after it recalibrated I had another 5whp, so 12whp total on the catback!
 

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I remember the Gtech! I wondered how they worked.

It would have been more useful to actually dyno the car before and after so you can get real numbers and a plot.

I’ve wondered about CAIs because modern cars are already designed to efficient. I just don’t see how the engineers left any efficiency on the table with something as simple as an air intake.

This was before the smartphone era, but I bought a machine that could record g-forces and such. It could also do a dyno pull run on the road and generate a hp/torque curve. I did 3 runs before changing it out and 3 runs afterwards. 7hp gain :D

You can do it these days with a phone app like Torque.

LOL, actually found my post from over a decade ago when I put my catback in!
https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/...haust-11/ark-catback-finally-installed-27902/

Then I reset my ECU and drove hard and after it recalibrated I had another 5whp, so 12whp total on the catback!
 

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I remember the Gtech! I wondered how they worked.

It would have been more useful to actually dyno the car before and after so you can get real numbers and a plot.

I’ve wondered about CAIs because modern cars are already designed to efficient. I just don’t see how the engineers left any efficiency on the table with something as simple as an air intake.
It comes down to noise. They put sound deadening baffles to limit the howl and growl of a full blown CAI. I was curious too so checked up on modern dynos of the last few years of CAIs and yes... still get a good bump... even 22hp on a Wrx STI!

Oh and the cotton filters let more air through than the paper filters, but they also cost more!
 

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It comes down to noise. They put sound deadening baffles to limit the howl and growl of a full blown CAI. I was curious too so checked up on modern dynos of the last few years of CAIs and yes... still get a good bump... even 22hp on a Wrx STI!

Oh and the cotton filters let more air through than the paper filters, but they also cost more!
Ok now you're convincing me to go spend money on my truck again. Thanks a lot! :grin::grin::grin:
 

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Ok now you're convincing me to go spend money on my truck again. Thanks a lot! :grin::grin::grin:
LOL, I have an 88 Mustang Race car. It's really well built. It's really fast and handles really well. 350hp and full max motorsports suspension upgrades, roll cage, frame stiffeners. Nitto NT01 competition tires 275/40/17. It's all set to go.

Still want to spend money on it! Must resists money pit! :devil:

But really, I could increase the engine to 450whp and put in an IRS to git rid of the live axle. Then I'd be going faster so need bigger brakes. To get bigger brakes I'd need bigger wheels. OMG I just spent $15,000 :D
 
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LOL, I have an 88 Mustang Race car. It's really well built. It's really fast and handles really well. 350hp and full max motorsports suspension upgrades, roll cage, frame stiffeners. Nitto NT01 competition tires 275/40/17. It's all set to go.

Still want to spend money on it! Must resists money pit! :devil:

But really, I could increase the engine to 450whp and put in an IRS to git rid of the live axle. Then I'd be going faster so need bigger brakes. To get bigger brakes I'd need bigger wheels. OMG I just spent $15,000 :D
That's why despite the fact that I have friends who are big time amateur racers, I never intend on tracking my 911. As you know, that game gets expensive very quickly!
 

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True Cold Air Intakes (CAIs) on daily-drivers carry the very real potential of water-ingestion. Even on a vehicle with as much ground clearance as the Ascent, I'd still run a bypass valve.

Short Ram Intakes (SRIs) allow for cooler air really only when the vehicle is actually moving forward. Particularly without a heat-shield, the intake air temperature just shoots up as soon as the car stops forward motion. For a daily-driver, unless you're just doing highway pulls after highway pulls, you're really not doing yourself any favors. A lot of folks got butt-hurt when Dave Buschur put up his dyno data on SRIs when he started playing with force-fed Subarus, but them were the lumps.

I got sucked into the SRI craze when it first started. I actually kept with it even after understanding that it actually left a bit of meat on the table simply because I wasn't into the game anymore, and I rather enjoyed the Darth Vader sounds that my car was making with the SRI. To me, there was less of a need to go fast (since where I live in NE-Ohio has several municipalities that made/makes the national speedtraps list) than to simply have my daily-driver be entertaining to me (I had another toy car in the stable, at the time) on my rather sedate weekly commutes. How bad was it? Let's just put it this way: I had two well-regarded tuners (it was two different tunes, with my vehicle in two different stages of modification) play with a Perrin Short Ram. ;) [ I tried controlling underhood temps as best I could - the car's final modlist before I traded it in included cerametallic coated UP/DP/manifolds/crosspipes, a PTP turbo blanket, Zero/Sports Cool-Action II intercooler splitter, and a Cobb radiator shroud supplementing the factory ductwork. Worked great as long as the vehicle had any forward speed at all, but that heat came on strong as soon as the car was stopped for any appreciable amount of time. ]

The Ascent's underhood ducting is truly pretty impressive to my eyes. I'd like to see what can be done to it to get more consistent streetable power, to see what can be done while keeping intake temperature as-stock or better, particularly without dropping the filter down to street level. I really don't want to drive a shop-vac around town again! :D
 

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I usually just put blocks of dry ice around the entire intake system before I leave. That way I can get the kids to school and to work faster. Lets me sleep an extra 35 seconds.
 

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That's why despite the fact that I have friends who are big time amateur racers, I never intend on tracking my 911. As you know, that game gets expensive very quickly!
I got lucky. A friend of mine has owned the car since it was new. He started tracking it almost 20 years ago. 8 years ago he put in major mods, including a new engine and all new suspension. Then he stopped racing after 4 events running it and put it up for sale. He's been sitting on it since then as he wasn't really motivated to sell it. I asked to buy it from him this year and he gave me a great deal on it just to get rid of it. So now I just have maintenance/running costs, which is still $$ but not $$$$.
 
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I got lucky. A friend of mine has owned the car since it was new. He started tracking it almost 20 years ago. 8 years ago he put in major mods, including a new engine and all new suspension. Then he stopped racing after 4 events running it and put it up for sale. He's been sitting on it since then as he wasn't really motivated to sell it. I asked to buy it from him this year and he gave me a great deal on it just to get rid of it. So now I just have maintenance/running costs, which is still $$ but not $$$$.
You ARE lucky!
 

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I was curious too so checked up on modern dynos of the last few years of CAIs and yes... still get a good bump... even 22hp on a Wrx STI!
Have any data to back the 22hp up? An intake on a WRX or STI is only for noise, if gaining 22hp was that simple then everyone would have bought one. You will get no HP gain unless you get a tune and at that point you still don't need an intake. This is typical with any turbo car. I don't see why it would be any different with the Ascent. The ECU is programmed to control the amount of boost and adding a different filter is not going to change that. The only thing you will notice is a louder sound and possible your CEL coming on.
 

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I'd like to see what can be done to it to get more consistent streetable power, to see what can be done while keeping intake temperature as-stock or better, particularly without dropping the filter down to street level. I really don't want to drive a shop-vac around town again! :D
Plus as you all might already know, they get filthy when they are out of an airbox.



This on was about 5 days away from having it's own heartbeat and growing thumbs. Just a little but overdue.



My custom, homemade intake still utilizes some of the factory airbox, it also did preserve all OEM diameter, lengths and bends.



That was then, this is now.



Trust me, I don't think folks want to be steam-punk'n their Ascents.
 

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That so reminds me of both my LGT and my then project/fun-car (a DSM, a Talon TSi).



The LGT had a self-cut heat-shield mangled from the K&N Tyhpoon, and it was sharp enough that had it dropped from any height, you'd best watch out for your toes!!!! :D
 

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Have any data to back the 22hp up? An intake on a WRX or STI is only for noise, if gaining 22hp was that simple then everyone would have bought one. You will get no HP gain unless you get a tune and at that point you still don't need an intake. This is typical with any turbo car. I don't see why it would be any different with the Ascent. The ECU is programmed to control the amount of boost and adding a different filter is not going to change that. The only thing you will notice is a louder sound and possible your CEL coming on.

Yeah, had to google again but didn't find the original, but found this one. Before and after dyno on a Mustang AWD dyno with no ECU reprogramming. 30whp on this one.


Dyno Tested: AEM Cold Air Intake 2015 Subaru WRX | Speed Academy


Even my 1999 Hyundai Tiburon computer was sophisticated enough to adjust to the newfound airflow, so it makes sense the newer ones can too.


Obviously doing an ECU tune makes it better as you can fully take advantage of the extra airflow. But it's not necessary. More air measured by the MAF means the computer can take advantage of it.



So far I've installed 4 CAIs and each has made a measurable difference. Never had any of them tuned.



A CAI from a reputable maker will already be tuned/adjusted to prevent the CEL coming on. They test tube lengths to get the resonance right and reposition the MAF sensor to match the new intake. There's a reason the AEM and K&N CAIs are ~$300 even though it's a $30 filter and some bent tubing!
 

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Plus as you all might already know, they get filthy when they are out of an airbox.

Yeah! I just cleaned off my Mustang filter. Tons of "gray goo" came off from when it was in storage. All freshened up now!



Trust me, I don't think folks want to be steam-punk'n their Ascents.

I'm waiting for a CAI, maybe an exhaust, skid plates and possibly a lift and knobby tires. Most aren't, but some of us are!
 
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