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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Adding a subwoofer to Premium trim - Base Stereo (6.5") - No RF Upgrade

I will be adding an amp and subwoofer in the next couple of weeks. The JL Audio cp108lg-w3v3 fits perfectly underneath the cargo area in back, so clean install. I’d like to install myself but need some help... I am confident I can run the power from the battery, through the firewall, and to the amp (planning on under the passenger seat). Ground the amp to a seat post. Your basic “every amp” install.

Where I am less certain is on getting a remote turn on signal to the amp, and how to feed the audio to the amp. Thinking I’d benefit from a line out converter... should I feed that via the rear speakers?

Would love some help on it. I am handy, just uncertain on the wiring strategy.
 

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Which audio system do you currently have? The base system, the Harman Kardon system, or the Rockford Fosgate system?
 

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Have you test fit the JL MicroSub yet? Unless my measurements are wrong, it's going to be a little too tall to fit with the cover closed. The grill cover looks like it will stick up high enough to prevent the cover from sitting flush.

If you do manage to get the cover to sit flush, how's it going to sound being under the cover. That will mush up / muffle up the bass wouldn't it? I've been toying with the idea of pulling the carpet off the cover, drilling venting holes to allow the sound to pass, and then recovering it with a more acoustic material. But that's a lot of work.

Otherwise there are some other small thinner subs that will indeed sit in the compartment with the cover closed, but they are really small subs and won't have the kind of punch I'd like.

The other option is to use a wedge sub and just have it sit on top of the compartment and place the amp down in the compartment. This 12" Rockford Fosgate (there's also a 10") is a sealed wedge sub and looks like a good deal for the $ with good performance: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R11X12/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R1-1X12.html

You can always hook it up with quick disconnects and remove the wedge sub if you need the room to carry stuff.



I will be adding an amp and subwoofer in the next couple of weeks. The JL Audio cp108lg-w3v3 fits perfectly underneath the cargo area in back, so clean install. I’d like to install myself but need some help... I am confident I can run the power from the battery, through the firewall, and to the amp (planning on under the passenger seat). Ground the amp to a seat post. Your basic “every amp” install.

Where I am less certain is on getting a remote turn on signal to the amp, and how to feed the audio to the amp. Thinking I’d benefit from a line out converter... should I feed that via the rear speakers?

Would love some help on it. I am handy, just uncertain on the wiring strategy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have you test fit the JL MicroSub yet? Unless my measurements are wrong, it's going to be a little too tall to fit with the cover closed. The grill cover looks like it will stick up high enough to prevent the cover from sitting flush.

If you do manage to get the cover to sit flush, how's it going to sound being under the cover. That will mush up / muffle up the bass wouldn't it? I've been toying with the idea of pulling the carpet off the cover, drilling venting holes to allow the sound to pass, and then recovering it with a more acoustic material. But that's a lot of work.

Otherwise there are some other small thinner subs that will indeed sit in the compartment with the cover closed, but they are really small subs and won't have the kind of punch I'd like.

The other option is to use a wedge sub and just have it sit on top of the compartment and place the amp down in the compartment. This 12" Rockford Fosgate (there's also a 10") is a sealed wedge sub and looks like a good deal for the $ with good performance: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R11X12/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R1-1X12.html

You can always hook it up with quick disconnects and remove the wedge sub if you need the room to carry stuff.
You are right...it's about half an inch 'proud'. I plan to add two 'shims' on each side of the grill to protect the grill from getting squashed. Unless you look closely you don't notice it being propped up slightly, so I am not bothered by it

Your point about muffling the output (first the cover, and then I have a rubber weather guard on top) is a good one. I plan to see how it sounds, those 8" W3's put out a lot of bass so I am hoping it overcomes it. Worst case, I will modify the cover with a hole and a new cover that allows the sound through.
 

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I assume that you are trying to work within a smaller budget. If you are looking for a sub to install in a shallow space, I doubt you will find a better shallow mount sub than this new alpine.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWRT10/Alpine-SWR-T10.html

We had one installed in a custom box in the side of a 2009 Forester. This sub really puts out, the new design is fantastic. If you really want to do it right, have or build a custom fiberglass box and install the sub linked and you will be amazed by the sound. Be warned, you will then desire to upgrade more of your system. Alpine and Focal make some lovely component sets :)
 

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You are right...it's about half an inch 'proud'. I plan to add two 'shims' on each side of the grill to protect the grill from getting squashed. Unless you look closely you don't notice it being propped up slightly, so I am not bothered by it

Your point about muffling the output (first the cover, and then I have a rubber weather guard on top) is a good one. I plan to see how it sounds, those 8" W3's put out a lot of bass so I am hoping it overcomes it. Worst case, I will modify the cover with a hole and a new cover that allows the sound through.
I've done this test fit and it's close. If I install this I will add some 3/4" thick wood pieces on the sides of the woofer for support. This is how I had it in my Outback and it made the floor stronger than it was before the sub was installed.

https://www.ascentforums.com/forum/60583-post5.html
 

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I've done this test fit and it's close. If I install this I will add some 3/4" thick wood pieces on the sides of the woofer for support. This is how I had it in my Outback and it made the floor stronger than it was before the sub was installed.

https://www.ascentforums.com/forum/60583-post5.html
Won't the cover be a bit unbalanced if the wood pieces run just over the sub? I would think the cover would rock side to side. I suppose you could add some support on the left side as well.

I'm rooting for this to turn out for you. If it does, I'm going to copy your idea!

Please keep us updated.
 

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Won't the cover be a bit unbalanced if the wood pieces run just over the sub? I would think the cover would rock side to side. I suppose you could add some support on the left side as well.

I'm rooting for this to turn out for you. If it does, I'm going to copy your idea!

Please keep us updated.
Yeah, it might be imbalanced. I haven't done much more than putting the sub back there and taking photos. Like you said, additional support can be added to the other side, or some other solution can be made. When the third row is folded down it sits a little higher than the cargo area, so this might actually help level it out a bit. hmm...

To answer one of your other posts, it still sounds great when the cover is put back on top. The space isn't air-tight so there's plenty of breathing room. It's too bad the the tray in the cargo area isn't foam like other cars. This sub was last installed in my Outback and all I had to do to make it fit was cut the foam so that I could recess the box more. You can see the 3/4" pieces I added to either side of the woofer to support the floor above it.

https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/774945-post1.html

I have no idea when I'll install this. I wish I could just pay a shop to run the wires for the amp, remote turn on, and LOC. That's the part I really don't care to do anymore.
 

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Yeah, it might be imbalanced. I haven't done much more than putting the sub back there and taking photos. Like you said, additional support can be added to the other side, or some other solution can be made. When the third row is folded down it sits a little higher than the cargo area, so this might actually help level it out a bit. hmm...

To answer one of your other posts, it still sounds great when the cover is put back on top. The space isn't air-tight so there's plenty of breathing room. It's too bad the the tray in the cargo area isn't foam like other cars. This sub was last installed in my Outback and all I had to do to make it fit was cut the foam so that I could recess the box more. You can see the 3/4" pieces I added to either side of the woofer to support the floor above it.

https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/774945-post1.html

I have no idea when I'll install this. I wish I could just pay a shop to run the wires for the amp, remote turn on, and LOC. That's the part I really don't care to do anymore.
Hey nice job on the Outback. Well done!

Unfortunately we have less room to work with in the back compartment on the Ascent. Looking forward to see what you come up with here.
 

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Hello. New to Subaru and this forum. Just took delivery of a '20 Touring with the HK stereo for my wife. She wants more bass....lol I'm not exactly sure if there is a sub and subwoofer already but looks like I have something in the rear right and perhaps a sub under the right passenger seat?

Looking at the JL Audio Power Wedge or Microsub. Question is....if I get the one that is already powered with the sub, is there any easy way to power & tie it in to the existing stereo or do I need to pull power and connect to the head unit. I believe we have an amp under the passenger seat but not sure if we can tie one that isn't powered by a sub any easier. Not an expert but willing to try it before getting a price at the local car audio store. Any advice is greatly appreciated...
 

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I wedged this:
behind the 2nd row seat, driver’s side.
It fits perfectly with the seat all the way back. It has a ton of output (it’s turned almost all the way down). It is easily flipped to the other side if you have a 5th passenger using the 3rd row, and is completely quick disconnect if you need all 8-pass seating. I built about a 4ft harness wrapped in cloth tape so it can be moved around without pulling on anything. It’s tough and completely out of the way. It hits hard and tight and is a perfect complement to the RF upgrade. Sounds great.
 

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I wedged this:
behind the 2nd row seat, driver’s side.
It fits perfectly with the seat all the way back. It has a ton of output (it’s turned almost all the way down). It is easily flipped to the other side if you have a 5th passenger using the 3rd row, and is completely quick disconnect if you need all 8-pass seating. I built about a 4ft harness wrapped in cloth tape so it can be moved around without pulling on anything. It’s tough and completely out of the way. It hits hard and tight and is a perfect complement to the RF upgrade. Sounds great.
Hey, what did you use for a LOC? After a year and a half I still haven't upgraded my RF system with an amp and sub (that I have at home). Where in the signal chain did you end up tapping? I usually fade everything to the front so I'd have to tap the front speakers. If I ever get around to this I'm planning on using an LC2i for the LOC.

...the RF sounds just good enough that it makes adding a sub a difficult propostion for me to spend the time to DIY. I wish I could just hire a shop to do it without having to give my car up for a day.
 

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The RF sub has high-level in(or low-level), so I just tapped the rears at the headunit, along with amp turn-on.
Running the amp 8 gauge power wire was... involved, lol.
 

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Hello. New to Subaru and this forum. Just took delivery of a '20 Touring with the HK stereo for my wife. She wants more bass....lol I'm not exactly sure if there is a sub and subwoofer already but looks like I have something in the rear right and perhaps a sub under the right passenger seat?

Looking at the JL Audio Power Wedge or Microsub. Question is....if I get the one that is already powered with the sub, is there any easy way to power & tie it in to the existing stereo or do I need to pull power and connect to the head unit. I believe we have an amp under the passenger seat but not sure if we can tie one that isn't powered by a sub any easier. Not an expert but willing to try it before getting a price at the local car audio store. Any advice is greatly appreciated...
Just replace the door speakers with some Kickers in the 44KSC series from Crutchfield as the HKs are terrible anyway. I did 6" x 9" in the front doors which go down to 30Hz and 6.5" in the rear doors which go down to 40Hz. It will run you about $200. If you can prop the door panels up on something you can do it without disconnecting the power window or lock controls and the speaker harness just clips into the OEM harness. Put Sirius on Diplo Revolution for her before and after and she'll be happy.
 

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Just replace the door speakers with some Kickers in the 44KSC series from Crutchfield as the HKs are terrible anyway. I did 6" x 9" in the front doors which go down to 30Hz and 6.5" in the rear doors which go down to 40Hz. It will run you about $200. If you can prop the door panels up on something you can do it without disconnecting the power window or lock controls and the speaker harness just clips into the OEM harness. Put Sirius on Diplo Revolution for her before and after and she'll be happy.
Gonna take a LOT more than that to fix the HK system..
 

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I tend to agree that speakers are usually the weakest link and the thing I'd upgrade first. But like A-Man13, I'm not chasing car audiophile quality either. The stock system in my Premium is actually much better than what was in my previous RX350.
 
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