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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Love the close up illumination of the limited LED headlights and fogs but wanted a lot more range

Added some Bajadesigns XL80 and put all spot lenses on there. To get distance/throw you need big reflectors or optics. Wanted to stay away from LED bars as well since in Southern California every other truck has one above the windshield.

https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/XL80-LED-Light-Pair.asp

This size housing comes in 2 more models using 2 other LEDs

9500 lumens each x 2, fits great behind the lower grill (tamper resistant location and hardware), color temp matches perfect with oem LED. Wired to a relay and oem Outback switch that fits on the Ascent panel to the left of the steering wheel. (Bottom right switch)

Note: Forum resizing compression too high so have to size it small on my phone. Will update later to larger size on desktop
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you don't need 9500 lumens. (I love my LEDs)

This also works, same housing size, less lumens, less $$$. They have rebates during BF, and best price I found was on eBay.

https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/xl-sport-pair-high-speed-spot.asp

What I love about Bajadesigns (best in the industry, imo) is the build quality, user serviceable lenses and beam pattern, premium binned 5k kelvin LEDs that match perfect with each LED within the housing and OEM LEDs. I believe they are Made in USA as well. Their designs are unique in a world of knockoffs too.


Use this info at your own risk, not a professional, just a guy who likes to mod

Tools/parts needed/suggested

Basic hand tools (If you don't already own a socket set, screwdrivers, cordless drill
Nutsert Setting Tool for 3/8'' bolts
Stepped drill bit or nutsert sized bit (Needs to be tight)
Laser level (to give me an idea of where the plastic grid is)
Lots of Harbor Freight moving blankets to protect bumper


Mounting info

Its definitely more involved than I'd like since my nut sert tool broke it was a multi day project, but the end result is clean and tamperproof IMO. So hope this helps.

Removed bumper (wrapped grill at same time with vinyl, good time to do horns too if you're considering it) Takes about 20 clips and 4 bolts (10 or 12mm)
There is one clip in each fender well too.
Drilled hole for nutsert (speciality size bit, 17/32 but the shaft is larger than the drill that I had so I used a step drill bit from HF)
Painted newly drilled hole 3x for rust prevention
Added 3/8'' nutsert/rivnut (and broke the tool so I had to put it back together and re-order the nut tool).
You will NOT be able to do the hack nutsert method using nuts like this in that space as you'll need a breaker bar to collapse the nutsert. 3/8'' is too big IMO.
)

Nutsert Tool that didn't break

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1FYLWU/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Attached the light, reattached the bumper and it didn't sit low enough to clear the opening so added stainless fender washers to stack it down and used a longer stainless 3/8'' bolt. (McMaster Carr FTW)


Wiring Info

Wired to a relay since oem switch has tiny 22ga wires
Fed relay signal wire through the fender, and out behind the hood release cable for entry
Added add a tap/circuit since I don't have info on wire color codes for the Ascent. Didn't want to tap into OEM wires

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Fuse-Tap...ateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=A1UMBRA5ZTBCX8

Switch part number H4510AL100
(2015 Outback Foglight switch) only works on bottom row of Ascent panel as the top row has depth different switches.


This thread on Outback forums helped me determine wire color codes on the switch
https://www.subaruoutback.org/forum...iagram-stock-fog-light-switch-h4510al100.html

Would be a good time to add wiring for a dash cam or radar detector, etc since you're opening up the dash but it only takes 60 seconds or so.
 

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