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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure how the dealer's express cost for Subaru genuine parts but I'm in an email exchange with parts/service where I bought my Ascent.

They just got my Reg and Title so I definitely need to go there and I was looking to get the wireless charging put in, and grab an 0W-20 oil cap as well.

So oddly, they are charging me for the license plate bracket and the pricing on the others is screwy:

1. Wireless charging - $489.95 (they list it on sale for $135.82)
2. License plate bracket - $34.95 - unsure on buying as frames are carried online but not bracket
3. Oil cover - $77.34 (they list it on sale for $50)

I was guessing that's installed price (labor) but $27 to unscrew an oil cap and put another on?
 

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I was guessing that's installed price (labor) but $27 to unscrew an oil cap and put another on?
Probably a minimum billable time or something like that. :(
 

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Not sure how the dealer's express cost for Subaru genuine parts but I'm in an email exchange with parts/service where I bought my Ascent.

They just got my Reg and Title so I definitely need to go there and I was looking to get the wireless charging put in, and grab an 0W-20 oil cap as well.

So oddly, they are charging me for the license plate bracket and the pricing on the others is screwy:

1. Wireless charging - $489.95 (they list it on sale for $135.82)
2. License plate bracket - $34.95 - unsure on buying as frames are carried online but not bracket
3. Oil cover - $77.34 (they list it on sale for $50)

I was guessing that's installed price (labor) but $27 to unscrew an oil cap and put another on?
What is the license plate bracket and why do you need it? Same for the oil cover????
 

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Ah, ok, let's discuss the license plate brackets.

You don't need one for the rear.

There are two options for the front bracket.
  1. Original Subaru plate style bracket, PN SOA342L171 (previously PN SOA342L170)
    I don't like this one. I own one, and replaced it. Do not get it.
    7118




  2. Custom Fit Subaru plate mount
    This is made by my friends at C&C Carworx. I highly recommend this one.
    7116



    It is also sold directly by C&C Carworx
    7117
 

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Some companies have different pricing for their internet business and their in store business because They are different markets. My dealer does this so I find the best internet price I can and buy things. I would prefer to help my local dealer and asked if I can just pick up my internet order to save shipping charges and was told no.

Do not assume that you are getting installed prices. You may be but you may not....
 

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The only time you can pretty much assume installed price is if you factory order your vehicle and put the accessories on the order. In most areas, other than the fob-based remote start (dealer install only), that will get the accessories you want pre-installed at the port (which is just outside of the factory) if they need to be installed. I could be mistaken, but in that NE USA area that's served by a distributor, the hitch kit may not be available "installed" on a factory order as their handle their own "port" process for their geography.
 
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I was guessing that's installed price (labor) but $27 to unscrew an oil cap and put another on?
You left out:
1. Bring car into service bay
2. Pull hood release
3. Walk to front of car
4. Release secondary latch
5. Lift hood
6. Set prop rod
7. Check service manual online for next step
8. Walk back to car
....
Etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, they did confirm the prices were inclusive of labor (2 hrs est for wireless charging).

Awaiting for the install date as the front license plate bracket is getting there.

I like the blue oil cap stating 0W-20 because if you take your Subie to Midas or worse, the one doing the oil change may or may not give you the right oil. I like the idea that a blue oil cap explains it pretty plainly with what oil to use. I call that insurance.
 

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Well, they did confirm the prices were inclusive of labor (2 hrs est for wireless charging).

Awaiting for the install date as the front license plate bracket is getting there.

I like the blue oil cap stating 0W-20 because if you take your Subie to Midas or worse, the one doing the oil change may or may not give you the right oil. I like the idea that a blue oil cap explains it pretty plainly with what oil to use. I call that insurance.
A local top mechanic who advocates for Amsoil will literally scream at a customer who demands 0W-20 here in Central Florida. The lowest he will go is 5W and personally guarantees any labor for repairs if you use Amsoil. Amsoil warranties for parts failures. Not to go on a tangent, but all of the manufacturers spec 0W because that's how they run their EPA CAFE Fuel testing and certifications.
 

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Amsoil warranties for parts failures.
Ugh, I'd so not make that mistake. AMSOIL will NOT warranty parts failure, unless you use 0w-20. It's not the brand of oil that makes the warranty claims get denied, it's the specs. It's also quite a process to accomplish an AMSOIL warranty claim - for instance, good luck getting 8 ounces of oil from the engine, unless you plan ahead. Then you have to wait on AMSOIL to decide what they want to do, and who's fixing or replacing the engine.
7164

I would NEVER go back to that mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
A local top mechanic who advocates for Amsoil will literally scream at a customer who demands 0W-20 here in Central Florida. The lowest he will go is 5W and personally guarantees any labor for repairs if you use Amsoil. Amsoil warranties for parts failures. Not to go on a tangent, but all of the manufacturers spec 0W because that's how they run their EPA CAFE Fuel testing and certifications.
I'm in NJ but to the point: customers aren't making the demand for 0W-20, the car manufacturer is. That's why I get the cap with the company name (Subaru) and the oil to use (OW-20).

If anyone tells me no, I drive over to a Subaru Dealer and be done with it.
 
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Some time back I had a Subaru Forester that was leaking oil. It is spec'd to use 0w-20 weight oil. I contacted Subaru and asked if I could use 5-20w oil in an attempt to slow the leak. They said that was fine. I spoke to an engineer. He said that 0 weigh oil is spec'd to meet mpg specs; a thinner oil is less drag and better fuel economy. He said 5-20 was fine, just might affect gas mileage.
I'm not advocating for anything other than factory spec oil. I'm just telling you what Subaru told me about my 2011 Forester.
 

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Very different Forester, engine, etc, BUT we can skip that... in the end of the day, what really matters is, if it is not in writing, a warranty claim can be denied. It's not a matter of which works better for what engine, or for what reason Subaru and others are using 0W-20. It's a matter of violating what's required to maintain warranty coverage of the engine.

Subaru and AMSOIL can both deny claims where the improper weight oil being used, and both clearly state that the warranty does not cover damage to components lubricated with the wrong oil. Warranty terms override all phone calls, and anything in writing that does not say the relevant clauses of the warranty do not apply. Our engines are expensive, and the labor to replace or rebuild one can be in the thousands. 😉 😞

Oils will continue to get thinner and thinner, btw. There's new, even thinner oil, that's in extensive testing right now, showing better results than 5w-20 oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Btw,

##w-## is the format of motor oil.

For ex. 10W-20

The first numbers refer to Winter (e.g., colder ambient temperatures) viscosity while the numbers after the "W" are for Summer (e.g., higher ambient temperature) viscosity.

The "W" stands for Winter hence first numbers are Winter, etc.

The lower the number the thinner and less viscous the oil is.

The Subaru turbocharged 4 cylinder boxer engine absolutely requires very thin oil viscosity. If not, it can overheat and water mixes into gas and the transmission gets killed.

So by every means possible, keep up with your oil changes, and do use 0W-20.
 
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